Changer finger out of place after string change on PP
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- Chuck Hamilton
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- Location: Flower Mound, Texas, USA
Changer finger out of place after string change on PP
After changing string number one on the E9 neck of my 1981 Emmons push pull the changer finger is out of place and I can’t seem to get it back where it is supposed to be. I only have one change on that string, which is to raise a whole step with the right knee lever left Any suggestions? See the pictures.Picture file
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Too much crap to list and who really cares anyway??
- Norman Evans
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- Jason Putnam
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That hook should be in one of those holes. One of the push pull experts may know which one. If not just try each one until you get the right one that takes it to pitch.
1967 Emmons Bolt On, 1974 ShoBud Pro 1 3x5,Nashville 112, Quilter TT-12, JOYO Digital Delay, Goodrich Volume Pedal, Livesteel Strings
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- Jason Putnam
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- Lynn Stafford
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What Bruce said exactly! I think I worked on that guitar. Is the serial number 2225 D? If so, it's from the mid 70s with a lacquer cabinet. I sold it to Tyler George and he sold it to Keith Bolog. Perhaps you bought it from Keith?Bruce Zumsteg wrote:It has purposely been set up that way in order to speed up the pull on the long throw required for the F# to G# change.
Best regards,
Lynn Stafford
STEEL GUITAR WEST
http://www.steelguitarwest.com
Steel Guitar Technician (Restoration, Set-up, Service and Repair work)
Previous Emmons Authorized Dealer & Service Technician (original factory is now closed)
ZumSteel Authorized Service Technician
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Lynn Stafford
STEEL GUITAR WEST
http://www.steelguitarwest.com
Steel Guitar Technician (Restoration, Set-up, Service and Repair work)
Previous Emmons Authorized Dealer & Service Technician (original factory is now closed)
ZumSteel Authorized Service Technician
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- Chuck Hamilton
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- Ian Worley
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engage the lever firmly and tune the G# raise at the keyhead, then release the lever and tune the open F# with the lowering screw on the upper row. This setup is a work around, tuning it is slightly counter-intuitive
All lies and jest, still a man hears what he wants to hear and disregards the rest - Paul Simon
- Jerry Overstreet
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- Henry Matthews
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Yes, exactlyIan Worley wrote:engage the lever firmly and tune the G# raise at the keyhead, then release the lever and tune the open F# with the lowering screw on the upper row. This setup is a work around, tuning it is slightly counter-intuitive
Henry Matthews
D-10 Magnum, 8 &5, dark rose color
D-10 1974 Emmons cut tail, fat back,rosewood, 8&5
Nashville 112 amp, Fishman Loudbox Performer amp, Hilton pedal, Goodrich pedal,BJS bar, Kyser picks, Live steel Strings. No effects, doodads or stomp boxes.
D-10 Magnum, 8 &5, dark rose color
D-10 1974 Emmons cut tail, fat back,rosewood, 8&5
Nashville 112 amp, Fishman Loudbox Performer amp, Hilton pedal, Goodrich pedal,BJS bar, Kyser picks, Live steel Strings. No effects, doodads or stomp boxes.
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I don't see the adjusting screw here and I generally use one to lock the raise scissor against the hook. While I'm not sure this applies, a common malady with these guys is the 50 year old raise scissor wears where the axle slips thru it allowing it to slip to the side of the adjusting screw. It's pretty common and, short of replacing all the scissors/fingers, there is a bit of a fix that should help. The 6-40 adjusting screws have flat ends at the end of the threads and tend to grab the finger in question and pull it to the side and if the hole that the axle goes thru has worn, the finger can slip right on by the screw as seen in your picture. Unfortunately no amount of side pressure seems to be able to solve the issue (I've tried adding shims to the changer but have yet to have it solve the problem and still have a functioning changer). I've also rebuilt these guys by using a new changer axle- had to go metric having it center ground as it was the closest thing to the original axle- and reaming out the fingers and changer pillow blocks. Short of that I have been successful by rounding the ends of the adjusting screws and using a drill through the hole in the endplate where the screws go put a dimple in the changer finger involved where it meets the adjusting screw and allowing the newly rounded screw and the dimple to marry. Now when you turn the adjusting screw it will not pull the finger to the side and all is again well.
- Chuck Hamilton
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Wow Jim, thanks for that thorough explanation, some of which is well over my pay grade. I checked and there are actually no adjustment screws for that particular string so I’m in the process of trying to get some and see if that will help. I’d like to take it to Henry Matthews but that’s a 3 Hour drive away, I may see if I can find somebody in the DFW area. If anyone has any suggestions, please let me know.
Too much crap to list and who really cares anyway??
- Jason Putnam
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I looked at my changer on my push pull which also has the whole tone raise on the first string and mine is not misaligned that way. So I think there is definitely an issue.
1967 Emmons Bolt On, 1974 ShoBud Pro 1 3x5,Nashville 112, Quilter TT-12, JOYO Digital Delay, Goodrich Volume Pedal, Livesteel Strings
- Ian Worley
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Based on what the OP stated I don't see an issue other than tuning. From what I can see in the pics, the finger is not misaligned in any way, the string tension is simply pulling it all the way back from the "normal" position (as expected) because the open tuning screw and lower return spring have been removed (intentionally). For this setup, that is normal. It's just a workaround to get more leverage for a shorter pull on that string. It's not the only way to set up a whole tone raise on string 1, but it's not uncommon. Maybe y'all are seeing something specific in the pic that I'm not. If so, do tell.
All lies and jest, still a man hears what he wants to hear and disregards the rest - Paul Simon
- John Palumbo
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