Linkon Bellcrank?

[Tim Toberer]

Does anyone have one of these they could show a better picture of the individual moving parts? I have been staring at McMaster Carr for 2 days trying to figure something out.

[Ross Shafer]

Hi Tim, I bought one of these many years ago...total joke. Getting one's fingers down into a loaded guitar to tighten this up while holding it in the desired height position was an exercise in frustration. Then getting it tight enough to hold was challenging without needle nose pliers.

If I can find it, I'd be happy to give it to you, but I'm pretty sure its gone. Look closely at your pictures there's really no need to see the parts up close to figure each one out. The photos show everything.

Happy Hot Dang Holidays to all!

[Tim Toberer]

Hi Tim, I bought one of these many years ago...total joke. Getting one's fingers down into a loaded guitar to tighten this up while holding it in the desired height position was an exercise in frustration. Then getting it tight enough to hold was challenging without needle nose pliers.

I was worried about that. What if you replaced the thumb wheel with a hex nut and used a small wrench? I found this picture which looks like it would work better. I may abandon this design altogether.

I am still confused by the design of the Linkon, I can't figure out how the part that pivots on the end is attached. Don't worry about finding that (Linkon), but thank you for the offer and insight! It is telling that I can't find one picture of a guitar that uses one.

[John Hyland]

Tim, if I am reading this right, it is possible the barrel for the rod is threaded both sides, hence can be tighten independently. Regardless the whole unit looks quite wide or the barrel too small to get good thread purchase.

[Tim Toberer]

Here's a bellcrank I have never seen before. These Springfield guitars look really well made.


Unfortunately this style won't work for my guitar because of the pull release design. So my search continues.

[Ian Worley]

...What if you replaced the thumb wheel with a hex nut and used a small wrench? I found this picture which looks like it would work better. I may abandon this design altogether...

I made those cranks in the pic for my PP to better time the raise on 1 & 2. They work, but not super practical to adjust in place. Ross's Blanton-style cranks, similar to the Springfield cranks in your other pic, are a much better solution. The only real advantage to this sort of design IMO is that it's compact.

...I am still confused by the design of the Linkon, I can't figure out how the part that pivots on the end is attached...

The clamp mechanism with the thumb nut is independent of the barrel that the pullrod connects to. That thumb nut clamp mechanism has a smaller diameter through hole, the barrel clamp for the rod has a corresponding axle extending off one side that feeds through that hole and is secured on the other end with the small C clip so it can rotate freely in the hole.

[Tim Toberer]

...What if you replaced the thumb wheel with a hex nut and used a small wrench? I found this picture which looks like it would work better. I may abandon this design altogether...

I made those cranks in the pic for my PP to better time the raise on 1 & 2. They work, but not super practical to adjust in place. Ross's Blanton-style cranks, similar to the Springfield cranks in your other pic, are a much better solution. The only real advantage to this sort of design IMO is that it's compact.

Thanks for the added angles of your bell crank! I love the minimal design, and I think it would work with my current setup. Curious how you made it? It looks like you possibly attached the arm to a shaft collar with a machined shoulder? I think this style would be perfect, cause I don't plan on doing on the fly adjustments, just need a little flexibility to even out my lowers and raises. Once it's set it should be fine. I also plan on making my pivot arm adjustable to give me a little more flexibility, since I don't have the space for a tall bell crank. Blanton/Sierra style bell cranks are really a beautiful design, but seem pretty labor intensive. I am always looking for an easier way I suppose.

he clamp mechanism with the thumb nut is independent of the barrel that the pullrod connects to. That thumb nut clamp mechanism has a smaller diameter through hole, the barrel clamp for the rod has a corresponding axle extending off one side that feeds through that hole and is secured on the other end with the small C clip so it can rotate freely in the hole.

Ok now I see! I was thinking it had to be something like this. Seems overly complicated.

Thanks again!

[Ian Worley]

The crank is just one piece of aluminum. I have an old (manual) knee mill in my shop, I cut them using a rotary table with a jig on a center mandrel that has a 5/16" stud.

Functionally they are the same as the Linkon crank, just a different, non-concentric clamping mechanism. If you used a really low profile socket head screw it might be more practical to adjust them in place. The little sliding carriage piece that the swivel attaches to has a little protruding guide on the inner face where the screw is to center it in the 1/4" track on the crank. There is a recess on the other end to leave a small gap for the C clip on the swivel. The protruding end of the 1/4" Ø stem on the swivel rides in the same track for support.

The smaller the part, the more difficult it becomes to make something that functions precisely using manual tools. Perhaps there is something in here you can parlay into a more practical design. Keep us posted!

[Tim Toberer]

The smaller the part, the more difficult it becomes to make something that functions precisely using manual tools. Perhaps there is something in here you can parlay into a more practical design. Keep us posted!

This is so true, and there are lots of little parts in a pedal steel guitar! I really appreciate the help!