increasing lever travel on Excel uni
Moderator: Shoshanah Marohn
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increasing lever travel on Excel uni
I'm moving some things around on my 2018 Excel U-12.
I'm having trouble getting the 1st string F#-G# raise and it seems the problem is the throw of the particular knee lever, rather than what changer/bell crank holes I use. The lever I'm moving the change to is my LKR, which is non-reversing with the bell cranks mounted underneath the cross rod, (facing the guitar top deck).
The length of the knee lever's travel seems to be determined by the stop screw hitting the edges of the perforations in the aluminum frame. How would you go about adjusting the throw? Swap the stop screw for one with a smaller diameter head?
I thought I'd check in here if anyone has any suggestions before I contact Mitsuo.
/Nicke
I'm having trouble getting the 1st string F#-G# raise and it seems the problem is the throw of the particular knee lever, rather than what changer/bell crank holes I use. The lever I'm moving the change to is my LKR, which is non-reversing with the bell cranks mounted underneath the cross rod, (facing the guitar top deck).
The length of the knee lever's travel seems to be determined by the stop screw hitting the edges of the perforations in the aluminum frame. How would you go about adjusting the throw? Swap the stop screw for one with a smaller diameter head?
I thought I'd check in here if anyone has any suggestions before I contact Mitsuo.
/Nicke
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I have the same stop set-up in my 2018 Excel.
I think the long travel required for that pull, combined with the short bell crank (since it's the upside-down one) is creating a situation where you can't get enough pull.
I think that a smaller head on the screw would give you more travel, obviously, or elongating or drilling out the hole would do the same.
BUT, I'd wait for Mitsuo to get back to you - his STRONG mind will have probably thought this out already and have a solution.
A smaller head on the screw would be an easier modification, and not require you to grind on your nice guitar. Fully reversible.
I'd be hesitant to grind on mine.
Another thought is to have the pull start with the screw head hard against the far side of the hole, so that it has maximum travel before it hits the other side.
Mike
I think the long travel required for that pull, combined with the short bell crank (since it's the upside-down one) is creating a situation where you can't get enough pull.
I think that a smaller head on the screw would give you more travel, obviously, or elongating or drilling out the hole would do the same.
BUT, I'd wait for Mitsuo to get back to you - his STRONG mind will have probably thought this out already and have a solution.
A smaller head on the screw would be an easier modification, and not require you to grind on your nice guitar. Fully reversible.
I'd be hesitant to grind on mine.
Another thought is to have the pull start with the screw head hard against the far side of the hole, so that it has maximum travel before it hits the other side.
Mike
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I am curious why you are having this issue. On my S-10 which I ordered with that change it gets there with no problem at all. It is on the lever which raises 2 and dropping 6 down to F#. The bell cranks as you have indicated are the ones that are mounted on the lower side of the cross shaft and that shaft moves counter clockwise when you engage it.
My pull rod is in the very top hole closest to the body of the guitar. YMMV depending on the what design changer and tuning system is on your guitar.
As per Jim's advice changing the pull rod combination is difficult to say the least. But if you can get to it that would be first suggestion.
My pull rod is in the very top hole closest to the body of the guitar. YMMV depending on the what design changer and tuning system is on your guitar.
As per Jim's advice changing the pull rod combination is difficult to say the least. But if you can get to it that would be first suggestion.
Mark T
Rittenberry Laquer D10, Rittenberry Prestige SD10, Revelation Preamp,Revelation Octal Preamp,Lexicon PCM 92 Reverb, Furlong Cabinet
Rittenberry Laquer D10, Rittenberry Prestige SD10, Revelation Preamp,Revelation Octal Preamp,Lexicon PCM 92 Reverb, Furlong Cabinet
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I make little hooks out of stiff wire to help guide the pull rod into the holes I want - since it's impossible to get your fingers down there. You can insert the rod from the changer end and use a little hooked wire to lift and guide the rod into the right hole on the bell crank.
Definitely use the changer finger hole that's closest to the body, that will have the most finger travel wit the shortest rod pull.
Definitely use the changer finger hole that's closest to the body, that will have the most finger travel wit the shortest rod pull.
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Nik
The bellcrank hole is the one that is closest to the body of the guitar. The pull rod is set to the hole in the top row of holes raises closest to the changer.
The bellcrank hole is the one that is closest to the body of the guitar. The pull rod is set to the hole in the top row of holes raises closest to the changer.
Mark T
Rittenberry Laquer D10, Rittenberry Prestige SD10, Revelation Preamp,Revelation Octal Preamp,Lexicon PCM 92 Reverb, Furlong Cabinet
Rittenberry Laquer D10, Rittenberry Prestige SD10, Revelation Preamp,Revelation Octal Preamp,Lexicon PCM 92 Reverb, Furlong Cabinet