The Steel Guitar Forum

I have decided change string gauge from an .11 for my G# to a .12, and just strung up my D-10 LeGrande with the .12.

When I tuned up to pitch, I didn't hafta adjust the pedal stop for the heavier string; it was in perfect tune. But...

When tuned to G#, the .12 gauge seems like it's under a lot more tension than the .11 (naturally), and I can't believe it makes the G# > A change without breaking. It is the sound I was after, but my fear is the extra tension of the .12 VS the .11 will put too much pull force on the changer ball pin & break it off.

Anybody else use a .12 on an Emmons style (pin) changer with success? Anybody break or bend the pin on the changer? What about string breakage? I have broken a G# only ONCE in 20 years; would like to keep that record! Thanks in advance for your replies.

You won’t have any problems with the 012 gauge. I have been using it for years with no problems at all. I use it on my Legrand and pushpull.

When I was playing a Mullen a few years ago... they had the pins on the changer like the Emmon's... I used 12's with those pins and never had an issue... plus the 12's both sound better and feel better on your picks.

No need to fear at all, the change in tension is negligible. Also, the sixth and seventh strings have the highest tension by far, much more than any gauge 3rd string would have.

I checked a string tension calculator, using 24" scale. It's probably adding 5 lbs. extra tension which really doesn't seem like much.
.011 G# = 27.61 lbs → A = 30.98 lbs.
.012 G# = 32.78 lbs → A = 36.78 lbs.

Rich, they do sell .015's (11 and one half's)👍 Just go to the top of this page and push STRINGS.
BTW. How's your timing? Do 6 and 3 engage and get to the A at the same time? RP

Ron Pruter wrote:Rich, they do sell .015's (11 and one half's)👍 Just go to the top of this page and push STRINGS.
BTW. How's your timing? Do 6 and 3 engage and get to the A at the same time? RP

Those are actually .0115's. .015 is fifteen thousandths. There more suited for the second string and would explode on the third string.

Of course, your right Richard. I caught it from Rich, the OP. Where's my proof reader? BTW Rich, I lov your Gov. Thx

Tommy Mc wrote:I checked a string tension calculator, using 24" scale. It's probably adding 5 lbs. extra tension which really doesn't seem like much.
.011 G# = 27.61 lbs → A = 30.98 lbs.
.012 G# = 32.78 lbs → A = 36.78 lbs.

That's over 5 lbs. more, about an 18% change - significant, but not catastrophic. You just have to make doubly sure that the ball is all the way on the pin when you install the string!

And...if I were designing a guitar with the "pin" string holders, I'd have two pins on every finger so that your customer wouldn't be totally screwed if one broke on a gig. The extra few minutes and few dollars it would cost in manufacturing would be well worth it, even if only for the "bragging rights" vs. other brands.

But then again, most players only notice the shiny alunium and purty wood.

From my experience the 2 factors most likely to cause a string breakage are the surface imperfections of the contact surfaces (such as the rollers) and the compounds used in the steel of the string.

It might be possible to reduce the surface imperfections by carefully polishing the surfaces where string contact is made. I think I tried that once and it did seem to help. The compounds in the steel will certainly vary between manufacturers and very likely by any single manufacturer depending on their receipt of the raw materials. But you can shop around and try different brands (especially swapping strings produced in different countries).