Can you help me confirm the right PT replacement?
Moderator: Dave Mudgett
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Can you help me confirm the right PT replacement?
No schematic and no markings on the power transformer. Noise led me to check heater voltage over and over to find it moving a bit but mainly above 25 volts. So the heater wires are getting additional power inside the transformer and has something wrong in it?
The amp is two EL34 power tubes with plate voltage at 420 and screens around 370ish. It is cathode biased with a center tap off of the heater winding going to the cathode resistor location. There are four 6SN7 preamp tubes and one 6SJ7 tube. Tube recitfier.
I found Hammond 379X which is 850V at 173ma with a center tapped heater winding. So that would get my plates back to 425 but the ma might be a little low? The Hammond 278X has higher ma at 230ma but lower 800v which would only give me 400 at the plates. These are the right size.
Is the 173ma going to be OK on this amp?
Thanks,
Steve
The amp is two EL34 power tubes with plate voltage at 420 and screens around 370ish. It is cathode biased with a center tap off of the heater winding going to the cathode resistor location. There are four 6SN7 preamp tubes and one 6SJ7 tube. Tube recitfier.
I found Hammond 379X which is 850V at 173ma with a center tapped heater winding. So that would get my plates back to 425 but the ma might be a little low? The Hammond 278X has higher ma at 230ma but lower 800v which would only give me 400 at the plates. These are the right size.
Is the 173ma going to be OK on this amp?
Thanks,
Steve
- Fred
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I would expect 25 volts on your heaters would burn them out. The center tap on the heater winding going to the EL34 cathodes puts a DC bias on the AC heater voltage. The correct way to measure the heater voltage is directly across the heater winding (not to ground) with the meter set to AC. I would expect 25 volts DC on the cathodes.
If you already know all this I’ll shut up now
Fred
If you already know all this I’ll shut up now

Fred
- Brian Hollands
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The PT secondary voltages are AC and the sum of both sides. Plate voltage is DC after the rectifier. It's not a 1 to 1.
I'm assuming this is a homemade amp and that's why there's no schematic. If not, what is the amp?
Either way the existing PT should have a model number stamped on it. That would allow you to find it's specs.
If no model number I think your rectified DC voltage should be about 1.4x the AC voltage of either side of the PT secondary. (It's been a while so let someone else confirm that). If that's right it would mean the PT should be more like 300-0-300. That sounds a bit low to get 420 on the plates but the math is right, just not sure the equation is...
Google each tube to get its current draw numbers. Sum those and you'll have the current draw.
Edit: what tube is it using as a rectifier? There's voltage drop from a tube vs. SS rectifier which is likely why that 300v number seemed low to me.
I'm assuming this is a homemade amp and that's why there's no schematic. If not, what is the amp?
Either way the existing PT should have a model number stamped on it. That would allow you to find it's specs.
If no model number I think your rectified DC voltage should be about 1.4x the AC voltage of either side of the PT secondary. (It's been a while so let someone else confirm that). If that's right it would mean the PT should be more like 300-0-300. That sounds a bit low to get 420 on the plates but the math is right, just not sure the equation is...
Google each tube to get its current draw numbers. Sum those and you'll have the current draw.
Edit: what tube is it using as a rectifier? There's voltage drop from a tube vs. SS rectifier which is likely why that 300v number seemed low to me.
'81 Sho-bud LDG, 2 EMCI's
- Tim Marcus
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