Long story short, I finally found and bought my holy grail, a 1940 Rickebacher 8 string bakelite in near mint condition. And you guessed it. It showed up with a broken neck. (I think I’m still in shock.).
I have two questions.
Can anyone recommend someone who has experience repairing bakelite Ricki necks and does meticulous work?
I’ve read some old forum postings and several years ago members were recommending Acraglas to repair bakelite necks. Is there anything better at this point and time?
I’d appreciate any suggestions you might have. I want to make sure this rare piece of Ricki history lasts another 80 years.
For bakelite Rickenbacher repairs, I used West System epoxy dyed with black epoxy dye from West Marine. For chip fill, I made the epoxy into a thick paste with Cabosil filler, a powdered silica. If anything, it was little too shiny at first, but as the years have passed, its hard to see the repairs.
All that being said, when it comes to a broken neck, I would say it will require an unobtrusive tenon to support any glue joint. Perhaps stainless steel.
Don't go in the water after lunch. You'll get a cramp and drown. - Mother.
First, it looks like removing the screw in the back of the body will release the remaining part of the neck attached to the body. As someone else mentioned, I would not count on the bakelite repair to hold the neck break intact. I would drill out a hole between the two pieces and install some kind of a steel rod, glued into both pieces, including the bakelite repair compound as the two are being mated together. Then clamp the two lengthwise until the whole assembly dries. Probably to insure proper drilling of the hole, I would clamp the two pieces together, then drill from the end of the neck (where it enters the body) all the way past the break. You might need to use a special long bit for this, but it would be the most accurate.
Michael Brebes
Instrument/amp/ pickup repair
MSA D10 Classic/Rickenbacher B6/
Dickerson MOTS/Dobro D32 Hawaiian/
Goldtone Paul Beard Reso
Reexamining the pictures, because of the screw attaching the neck, you might not be able to drill a hole from the end of the neck. You might have to go with at least an oversized hole in one piece with a tighter hole on the other. That way you could glue the rod in place in the tight hole then extra glue in the sloppy hole as you mate the two pieces together.
Last edited by Michael Brebes on 18 May 2019 6:06 am, edited 1 time in total.
Michael Brebes
Instrument/amp/ pickup repair
MSA D10 Classic/Rickenbacher B6/
Dickerson MOTS/Dobro D32 Hawaiian/
Goldtone Paul Beard Reso
Might be possible to use a piece of flat stock steel and drill a hole that screw would go through. Would take someone who could mill the slot for the flat stock correctly so it fits tight.
I repaired a prewar B6 for a customer with a break just like yours. I used only Acraglas(Red Box)with the supplied black dye. I did not use any other reinforcement. The trick I was told was to get a jig set up ahead of time to bring the two pieces into proper alignment and able to force it tightly together. You have to work quickly because the Acraglas sets up very quickly, and gets very hot. I did not touch it for three days to allow it to cure properly. The break on mine was so clean it did not require any drop fills, I just repainted the white fret marker and called it a day.That was 10 years ago and I am told the break is still solid.I took some pics, but I cannot find them now. YMMV
[/url]
Last edited by Steve Wilson on 16 May 2019 11:07 am, edited 1 time in total.
Before going off topic here, my condolences to Paul for what must have been a truly heart-breaking experience. I can hardly imagine the shock upon opening the box and discovering the damage. A tragic loss of a rare and exceptional instrument. Hopefully it can be repaired to your satisfaction.
My sincere thanks to Steve for sharing the photos above. I need to make a jig to repair a neck from a Duolian with a severed headstock. I'd been contemplating how best to proceed, and your jig has started the cogs and gears and wheels turning between my ears. Looks like a similar approach would work for me.
Thanks Bill and Jack!
When I looked at the date on the photos it was actually 18 years ago! How time flies.
As I recall I used blue tape on the fretboard side of the crack so I could hinge it open without moving the clamps to apply the Acraglass, and the tape also kept the Acraglass from running onto the jig and gluing it permanently there. I had seen a very fancy jig a forum member (maybe from Indiana) had made, I tried to contact him to see if I could borrow it but it didn't work out. Good luck!
Last year I bought an early '40's Richenbacher that had a neck repair done on it at some point. I'm not sure exactly how it was done, but there are two screws showing on the underside, and you can see the lines between the 10th and 11th fret are bit brighter.
Regardless of the aesthetics, it plays and sounds awesome!
I recently did a neck/headstock repair on a 30s 7-string bakelite for Bobby Ingano. Luckily, it broke on a long flat angle, with lots of area for the epoxy to mend it. It broke just between the tuners and the nut. He told me yesterday that it sounds great as ever, so that's good news !!
