LDG 3rd string raise

[Randy Broughten]

My third string A note seems to go flat after I tune it and play it a little bit. The G# note is just fine, only the A goes flat on me. Other than that everything else stays in tune all night. (There seems to be not much resistance when I turn the tuning key for that raise). Thanks for anyones help. Randy

[C Dixon]

I do not have that problem, but I do have one that is similar. When I install the 3rd string on my Excel universal after getting it up to pitch, I then have to constantly and I mean constantly continue to raise the open pitch for about the first couple of weeks. Then from that point on, I rarely have to mess with it, until I change string again. Then the exact same scenario.

Not sure I understand what is going on here.

carl

[Lem Smith]

Randy,
Although I'm sure there's probably several things that might cause that particular problem, the most likely thing that I can think that it might be, is the nylon tuner nut may be slipping. I had the same problem with my E to F# raise and it was the nylon tuner slipping.

Hope this helps.
Lem

[Martin Weenick]

Try tightening the screw in the top of your tuning key button.

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Martin W. Sho-Bud, Super- Pro.

[Jerry Hayes]

Hey Randy,
If your nylon tuner is slipping just take if off the rod and get a piece of thread and feed it through the hole in the tuner and put it back on. It should hold then. I used to do that to some of the nylon pieces on my old ShoBud from time to time and it always fixed the problem. Sometimes they'd get to where you could turn one of them with your fingers so I'd just do that with them. Have a good 'un, JH

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Livin' in the Past and the Future with a 12 string Mooney Universal tuning.

<FONT SIZE=1 COLOR="#8e236b"><p align=CENTER>[This message was edited by Jerry Hayes on 11 August 2004 at 05:38 AM.]</p></FONT>

[Duane Marrs]

Randy, If your LDG is a later one with pot metal fingers, that may be your problem. The raise lower bar assembly has what we call a sweeper arm that moves the finger back and forth. The pot metal is softer than the aluminum finger. It begins to wear after time and you will chase the tuning forever. We see this all the time since the third is constantly moving. Another problem with the pot metal finger is that it can become eggshaped where the axle goes through the hole, instead of being round. We had one on a Pro I Gary Morse owns and scratched our heads for hours until we dropped the finger. At that point we rebuilt the whole system for him.
We have replacement fingers of either type you need or want to spend. The aluminum we put in all of our guitars now and is only a little bit more and is what we would recommend. If you or any others need help or information about your Sho-Bud guitar please feel free to call us any time at 615-868-5344. www.duanemarrs.com
Hope this info is helpful to you. Jeff Surratt

[Randy Broughten]

I thank all of you for your help. I am going to start with the easiest suggestions first and work my way from there. Thanks again, Randy

[Don Henry, Jr]

Randy, Back in 1977, when I bought my first LDG, I had the very same problem on a new guitar. Now, I realize the changers back then were made differently than on the later model LDGs, but when I made a trip up to Sho-Bud in 1978, Duane Marrs talked me into increasing my 3rd from a .011 to a .012. I did and not only did it solve that problem, I got much better tone on my third string.

Guitars with a 24 inch scale do much better with a .012 on the 3rd string...but it's hard to convince most players of that...until they try it for a few days.

Also, I use a .018 for the 5th and a 0.22W on the 6th. Just give this a try on your LDG and I bet you never go back to the thinner gauges.

Oh, one more thing, I very rarely break a 3rd sting on my Super Pro.



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