Question on Replacing Nylon Hex Nuts

James Quillian · Post by **James Quillian** » 21 Apr 2015 5:18 pm

Is this the correct procedure?

Remove the pull rod and screw the new hex nut onto the threads.

I haven't done this before but it looks as if the hex nut is tightened to the point where there is no slack and then tightening it more either raises or lowers the note depending on whether the lever/pedal raises or lowers? Is that correct?

Is there any more to it than that?

Are there any common errors that need to be avoided?

Russ Wever · Post by **Russ Wever** » 21 Apr 2015 8:52 pm

No reason to remove the pull-rod: Just unscrew the old nylon tuner,
counting the number of turns until it comes off the end of the pull-rod,
then screw the new one on the same number of turns, fine-tuning it afterwards.
Some steels use a spacer between the inside end on the nylon tuner and the
changer-finger - if so, don't let it fall off the end of the pull-rod.
~Rw

James Quillian · Post by **James Quillian** » 22 Apr 2015 1:22 pm

Is the spacer also nylon? If so, this guitar may have one. The hex nut itself shattered but there is still nylon a short ways down the rod. I thought that was what remained of the broken hex nut. This guitar is a Fessenden D10, under 4 years old. Is that a spacer?

Russ Wever wrote:No reason to remove the pull-rod: Just unscrew the old nylon tuner,
counting the number of turns until it comes off the end of the pull-rod,
then screw the new one on the same number of turns, fine-tuning it afterwards.
Some steels use a spacer between the inside end on the nylon tuner and the
changer-finger - if so, don't let it fall off the end of the pull-rod.
~Rw

Jon Light · Post by **Jon Light** » 22 Apr 2015 1:49 pm

No spacer. That is a broken piece.
Do NOT tighten out all the slack. There MUST be some slack when the guitar is at rest.

Richard Sinkler · Post by **Richard Sinkler** » 22 Apr 2015 4:46 pm

I worked on a Fessy one time and there are no spacers. Just thread a new nut on the rod while it is still in the guitar.

Danny Letz · Post by **Danny Letz** » 22 Apr 2015 4:52 pm

A spacer would more than likely be round and not hex.

James Quillian · Post by **James Quillian** » 23 Apr 2015 12:33 pm

I really appreciate the help. I am still waiting for the hex nuts to arrive in the mail.

If there is a DVD somewhere that shows how to do routine pedal/lever adjustments and common repairs, I will buy it.

For me, the hardest thing is always figuring out the simple stuff.

Ian Sutton · Post by **Ian Sutton** » 23 Apr 2015 2:24 pm

Al Brisco has a "Care and Feeding of your Pedal Steel" DVD available, and I think there is a rumor that Mickey Adams has one the works.

Cheers.

Jon Light · Post by **Jon Light** » 23 Apr 2015 3:21 pm

I definitely encourage you to pursue such materials (I'm not familiar with what's out there). Knowing how to service your steel in an emergency and how to maintain it in the long run is invaluable.

The rods on a Fessenden will easily come out of the bellcrank as you screw on a new nut so here is how I do it:
Turn guitar upsidedown in case and lift/slide/prop guitar so that the changer end of the body catches the edge of the case and is held up with access to the nuts at the endplate. (Even better is to have a cradle rig that holds the guitar and provides access to everything.)

Hold the rod end in its changer slot with a screwdriver blade or needlenose pliers. As long as you keep the rod from sliding out of the slot, it will provide the grip and stability necessary as you screw the nylon tuner on to the threaded rod.

I repeat--do not screw the nut so far that you remove the slack from the pull train. At rest, the changer fingers must be fully returned to their stops and NOT suspended by an overtightened pull rod. If a maximally tightened BUT NOT OVERTIGHTENED nut does not provide enough pull to bring the string up or down to pitch, then back off on the nut and move the rod to a slot on the bellcrank farther away from the cross shaft (for a pedal) and/or adjust the stop screw (for a knee lever) to allow for longer movement.

If you run into problems, come on back here with them. These are fundamental adjustments that can easily be trouble-shot and the Fessenden is an easy guitar to work on.

Richard Sinkler · Post by **Richard Sinkler** » 23 Apr 2015 6:48 pm

I just put a bath towel on my coffee table and set the guitar upside down on there. Works pretty good, but wish it was taller, like a dining room table. I just take my left hand, grab the rod somewhere close to the changer so it doesn't get pushed out of the bell crank, and thread the new nut on. If the rod doesn't come out of the bellcrank (note which slot it is in), there should be no need to have to change which slot it is in.

James Quillian · Post by **James Quillian** » 24 Apr 2015 7:00 pm

Ian Sutton wrote:Al Brisco has a "Care and Feeding of your Pedal Steel" DVD available, and I think there is a rumor that Mickey Adams has one the works.

Cheers.

I have tried to buy that DVD. If anyone knows where it is in stock, please let me know.

Bill McCloskey · Post by **Bill McCloskey** » 3 Aug 2023 3:58 pm

Reviving this old thread because I have a question. I have a nylon hex nut that needs replaced. I understand from this thread that I just untighten the hex nut (turning counter clockwise?) until it comes off and count the turns.

My problem is the hex wrench won't fit over nut. Is it possible for them to expand? Is the solution to look for a slightly larger hex wrench?

Bobby D. Jones · Post by **Bobby D. Jones** » 3 Aug 2023 6:41 pm

There could be a couple reasons for the problem with Nylon Tuning Nuts.
If the threads of rod come up into the area of the Nylon Tuner where the wrench slides over. Someone may have put a smaller hole Tuning Nut on the rod and swelled the nut. I had that problem with a MSA Classic steel, With the guitar using 1/8" rods, Someone had put a piece of a 7/64" Tuning nut on the rod. Was fun to get it off to replace.

When there was a shortage of Nylon Tuning nuts a while back.
Some were made out of Plastic/Nylon stand offs use to hold circuit boards in computer equipment. The stand offs was 5MM.
Someone was here on the forum looking for a 5MM tuning wrench. If you have a 5mm socket or borrow one should get you out of this problem.
3/16" is .1875 inch, 5mm is .19685 Is enough to cause your problem. Good Luck on problem and Happy Steelin.

John Hyland · Post by **John Hyland** » 3 Aug 2023 6:58 pm

Read somewhere that the hex nuts can expand a little when righting on the threads. Again 5mm socket fixes this. A “long pocket” socket is a good option too.

John Hyland · Post by **John Hyland** » 3 Aug 2023 6:59 pm

Double post

Dave Grafe · Post by **Dave Grafe** » 4 Aug 2023 4:57 am

Bill McCloskey wrote:Reviving this old thread because I have a question. I have a nylon hex nut that needs replaced. I understand from this thread that I just untighten the hex nut (turning counter clockwise?) until it comes off and count the turns.

My problem is the hex wrench won't fit over nut. Is it possible for them to expand? Is the solution to look for a slightly larger hex wrench?

Give me a call after the weekend Bill, we can get together with your guitars and my parts box.

Bill McCloskey · Post by **Bill McCloskey** » 4 Aug 2023 6:01 am

Fantastic Dave. I got your number. I'll give you call on monday.