Volume pot wiring

David Deratany · Post by **David Deratany** » 6 Aug 2007 6:35 am

I replaced the pot on my Goodrich pedal. I decided to clean up the wiring at the same time, as the pot had been replaced a few times. While I did make a diagram, somehow I got it wrong. The range of volume goes from low to medium.

Can someone tell me which terminal on the pot goes where? I called Goodrich and left a message but got no email or call back.

Donny Hinson · Post by **Donny Hinson** » 6 Aug 2007 7:48 am

One (outside) pot terminal gets grounded. The center terminal of the pot goes to the tip of the output (amp) jack, and the wire from the tip of the input (guitar) jack goes to the other outer (ungrounded) terminal of the pot.

Greg Cutshaw · Post by **Greg Cutshaw** » 6 Aug 2007 8:23 am

Pics, wiring diagram and wire colors are all shown here.

Greg

David Deratany · Post by **David Deratany** » 6 Aug 2007 9:06 am

Thank you Greg and Donny.

Bill Dobkins · Post by **Bill Dobkins** » 7 Aug 2007 9:06 am

David, are you sure the pot is opening all the way.
You may want to push the pedal all the open, then turn the pulley on the pot all the way open.
Just a sugestion.

Mickey Lawson · Post by **Mickey Lawson** » 12 Aug 2007 4:54 pm

I took the 250K pot out of my Ernie Ball Mono Pedal (wasn't using it then), and replaced it with Bradshaw's Dunlop 470K. Made it a perfect pedal. Anyone replacing the pot in a Ernie Ball Pedal, must have needle-nose pliers available to pull the spring, and release the strings. Also, solder will not adhere to the Dunlop terminals, unless you use solder paste flux on the joints.

Mike Wheeler · Post by **Mike Wheeler** » 13 Aug 2007 5:12 am

Mikey, just to expand on your post...

That's true for any electronic soldering. The flux is what enables the two dissimilar metals to bond. Common electronic solder is a 60/40 mix of tin/lead with a flux compound built into it.

Fluxless solder is used for plumbing, and such, and usually comes in larger guages. There you add the paste flux separately. with a little brush, from a little tin can.

There are many other formulations for more specialized applications, but that's the most common. BTW, avoid breathing the fumes...not good for the body.

Jack Stoner · Post by **Jack Stoner** » 13 Aug 2007 7:49 am

One note on Flux, NEVER use Acid flux in electronics. ONLY rosin or better yet only use rosin core solder for electronics.

Chris Gilchrist · Post by **Chris Gilchrist** » 14 Oct 2007 5:14 am

I was following Greg's excellent instructions (thanks so much for posting those) to install my Dunlop pot, but I've run into an issue and was wondering if others have had this problem, or if I'm just missing something:

With the Goodrich L120 that I have (not the 120 model that Greg shows), the mounting bracket for the pot is on the opposite side. So to get the setup correct, I either had to switch the winding direction of the string (which then doesn't wind/unwind well), or swap the wiring (swap white and brown wire positions). The latter solves the problem, except that the logarithmic taper really takes off only at the very top range of the pedal stroke, which to me is awkward. The pedal goes from full off to full on (I've verified with an Ohm meter), but much of the pedal stroke (maybe 75% of it) results in very little volume change. I'd like to switch that around.

Am I missing something here? Any ways to fix this?

Roger Kemp · Post by **Roger Kemp** » 14 Oct 2007 5:37 am

In my 120 looking at the pot stem facing you. The brown wire first starting on right going to the body/sleeve of the instrument jack orange in the center of pot going to both tips of the amp.Finaly the white on the left of the pot going to the tip of the instrument jack.. Hope this helps Mine was redone by manufacture.

P.S. I drilled a hole in my pot so when it gets the least bit scratchy I spray eletrical parts cleaner in it makes it good as new.

The Steel Guitar Forum

Volume pot wiring

Volume pot wiring

Dunlop pot

volume pot replacement