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Ray Minich · Post by **Ray Minich** » 29 Mar 2007 1:10 pm

took 15 ground rods to come up to the proper reading, first time I ever heard if this

Yep, years ago there was a spec for the maximum impedance of the grounding system for an IBM 370-115 power supply. To get the ground specs they had to add activated carbon and copper plates to an underground matrix. Wild stuff.

Ground in NYC is really neat. With all the leakage currents from them tall buildings and subways, ground can be really "relative"...

You conduit, I conduit, we all conduit!

John Coffman · Post by **John Coffman** » 31 Mar 2007 8:03 am

I have 20 year maintenance and construction background and have helped oversee building of two major buildings in Hobbs and Santa Rosa. Also one in Del Rio Texas. Very dry areas. A simple ground does not always work. These buildings had state of the art electroincs and computer systems in them.

Just want to bring up most of the ground in NM is very dry and does not conduct well. Multiple rods may be need. I have been lucky on most jobs to find a source of ground water to help the conductivity of the ground. If you live in a rural area with septic tanks locate a rod near the output lines or the tank. The other option is a grounding loop with smaller rods. Most rods are 5/8" diameter and about 6 ft long. Household 200 amp boxes call for a #8 solid bare wire for grounding. I have two grounds on my double wide. I suggest using at least two if not 3 in very dry areas. The lighting is bad in Texas, OK and NM. This might help keep the EMF from the dry winds down also.

Mike Black · Post by **Mike Black** » 5 Apr 2007 7:59 am

A. J. Schobert · Post by **A. J. Schobert** » 5 Apr 2007 8:19 am

Mike do you live in a mobile home? What I'm conncerned is the gas heater, mobile home's require sealed combustion with outside air, if you bought that from a home improvement store look at the labeling I would bet it isn't recommended for mobile homes. Now if you don't live in a mobile home my bad!

Mike Black · Post by **Mike Black** » 5 Apr 2007 9:31 am

A. J. Schobert · Post by **A. J. Schobert** » 5 Apr 2007 10:33 am

Mike I used to do HVAC for 10 years, this is my take. You live in a mobile home, that is not a permently manufactured home. You still have the semi wheels under the skirting right? What they mean by permently manufactured home is one that is made with a foundation, I encourage you look into to this a little closer. One way a mobile home achieves some sort of insulation is to be air tight, one note is that on your outside doors they are alot more snug(air tight) than on a residential house. With that in mind you have to bring in outside air for combustion otherwise you start to burn up your inside air and the result is carbon monoxide. Look at mobile home furnaces they opperate the same way they have to bring in 100% outside air. It looks like you bought it at a home improvement store and it was advertised as a vent free fireplace, I would get me a co detector, hopefully you see my point. When it comes to mobile homes codes are a lot more restrictive cause they can catch fire so easy, and peaple can be trapped. CO is a big problem with mobile homes as well.

A. J. Schobert · Post by **A. J. Schobert** » 5 Apr 2007 10:38 am

Was there alluminum wireing in you home?