Ideas?
Moderator: Shoshanah Marohn
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If ya narrow the head unit up about 1 inch I would have the option to rack mount it. Yep, I checked. Super little amp, but I play 6 string 60% of the time and like them controls right beside me so I can quickly tweek them between the two instruments. Thank You, Peavey has been good for me for the past 35 years.
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For those who want something simple, there's tons of "simple amps" already out there.
The idea of someone "voicing" an amp irritates me. Really, I don't want anyone else (even Buddy or Lloyd) determining what <u>my</u> amp should sound like. Just give me the proper controls and I'll set them where I please, thank you.
Neodymium speakers - The time has come. DO IT!
No top vents, PLEASE! Even Bogen finally figured out that was a bad idea.
Give us a decent reverb. Paying $400-$800 for an amp, and then having to buy some sort of outboard reverb/delay unit because the one in the amp sounds crappy is rather ridiculous. Here's an idea...give us plug-in modules. If I don't like the sound card in my computer, I can just buy another and plug it in, and I'm ready to go. (Why aren't the better amps designed like this?) Screwing around with batteries, or wall-warts and a tangle of wires looks anything but professional, in my book.
Forget the "modeling" technology. It's smoke and mirrors. And as far as clean sounds go, it does nothing that can't be accomplished by good EQ controls.
Knobs! No tiny pushbuttons and LCD menus you can't read, and no factory "presets", either. I might want the setting between two presets some doofus designer has chosen, and after all...it <u>is</u> my amp!
More bass! If I fry the speaker, it's my own damn fault.
Wheels, legs, a cover, and a schematic/service literature should come standard with any high-end amplifier. I might not expect it with a $150 Crate, but they oughta come with any amp over $500.
A 12' line cord and maybe a duplex outlet in tha back of the amp would be nice, too.
The idea of someone "voicing" an amp irritates me. Really, I don't want anyone else (even Buddy or Lloyd) determining what <u>my</u> amp should sound like. Just give me the proper controls and I'll set them where I please, thank you.
Neodymium speakers - The time has come. DO IT!
No top vents, PLEASE! Even Bogen finally figured out that was a bad idea.
Give us a decent reverb. Paying $400-$800 for an amp, and then having to buy some sort of outboard reverb/delay unit because the one in the amp sounds crappy is rather ridiculous. Here's an idea...give us plug-in modules. If I don't like the sound card in my computer, I can just buy another and plug it in, and I'm ready to go. (Why aren't the better amps designed like this?) Screwing around with batteries, or wall-warts and a tangle of wires looks anything but professional, in my book.
Forget the "modeling" technology. It's smoke and mirrors. And as far as clean sounds go, it does nothing that can't be accomplished by good EQ controls.
Knobs! No tiny pushbuttons and LCD menus you can't read, and no factory "presets", either. I might want the setting between two presets some doofus designer has chosen, and after all...it <u>is</u> my amp!
More bass! If I fry the speaker, it's my own damn fault.
Wheels, legs, a cover, and a schematic/service literature should come standard with any high-end amplifier. I might not expect it with a $150 Crate, but they oughta come with any amp over $500.
A 12' line cord and maybe a duplex outlet in tha back of the amp would be nice, too.
- Craig Stenseth
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- Frank Estes
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Hybrid - single tube pre-amp like Marshall AVT and Vox ADT does.
Built in chorus, delay, reverb. The remote clip idea is good or a footswitch. Maybe built-in distortion.
The goal is to be able to walk in and plug just one cord between volume pedal and amp. Make the setup quick, while keeping the amp weight under 50 lbs.
Built in chorus, delay, reverb. The remote clip idea is good or a footswitch. Maybe built-in distortion.
The goal is to be able to walk in and plug just one cord between volume pedal and amp. Make the setup quick, while keeping the amp weight under 50 lbs.
SMOOTH,WARM TONE. SMOOTH, WARM TONE.
Not the brittle sterile tone that Peaveys are noted for. I've owned a Session 400 and played through countless other Peaveys. Never could dial in a smooth warm tone.
Need:
15" spkr
at least 300 watts power
great reverb
at least 15 effects all tweakable
great tone controls
built in tuner in cents
Build a quality product reasonably priced.
Not the brittle sterile tone that Peaveys are noted for. I've owned a Session 400 and played through countless other Peaveys. Never could dial in a smooth warm tone.
Need:
15" spkr
at least 300 watts power
great reverb
at least 15 effects all tweakable
great tone controls
built in tuner in cents
Build a quality product reasonably priced.
4 6L6's with a half-power switch, and 12AX7's/12AT7's in the preamp section.
Exterior-accessible bias points.
3-knob reverb with dwell control like the old stand-alone unit.
Solid wood cabinet.
Hand wired for ease of servicing - also pretty much forces a simple, no-frills circuit.
Volume, treble, mid and bass controls only. If a presence control, just the old negative feedback variable-type.
OT with switchable impedance - 2, 4, 8, 16 ohms.
Switchable baffle (in one-size fits all enclosure) with 2x12 and 1x15 options. Possibly 4x10 if it can be done.
Weber speakers. Sorry. Personal preference. I've blown every Peavey speaker I've ever owned. And basket replacements are too expensive compared to decent recones.
Basically, it's a combination of a Vibrasonic, Twin Reverb, Vibroverb and a couple Holland models (for the reverb). enough clean guts for pedal steel, and easily tweaked for guitar as well.
No trem, effects loop, fancy eq section or any of that tone-sucking stuff we used to think we needed. well, trem would be nice, but probably easier/cheaper to do with a pedal and have less negative impact on the amp's tone - unless you incorporate the brown-Fender trem That would be the bomb...
If the Fender guys read this they'll disown me....
Exterior-accessible bias points.
3-knob reverb with dwell control like the old stand-alone unit.
Solid wood cabinet.
Hand wired for ease of servicing - also pretty much forces a simple, no-frills circuit.
Volume, treble, mid and bass controls only. If a presence control, just the old negative feedback variable-type.
OT with switchable impedance - 2, 4, 8, 16 ohms.
Switchable baffle (in one-size fits all enclosure) with 2x12 and 1x15 options. Possibly 4x10 if it can be done.
Weber speakers. Sorry. Personal preference. I've blown every Peavey speaker I've ever owned. And basket replacements are too expensive compared to decent recones.
Basically, it's a combination of a Vibrasonic, Twin Reverb, Vibroverb and a couple Holland models (for the reverb). enough clean guts for pedal steel, and easily tweaked for guitar as well.
No trem, effects loop, fancy eq section or any of that tone-sucking stuff we used to think we needed. well, trem would be nice, but probably easier/cheaper to do with a pedal and have less negative impact on the amp's tone - unless you incorporate the brown-Fender trem That would be the bomb...
If the Fender guys read this they'll disown me....
- Tommy R. Butler
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- Keith Cordell
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I gotta add to the discussion of the logo. The Peavey logo is one of the most identifiable in the industry- for all the wrong reasons. It is a relic of the 80's hair band logo font, and so many people tape it over or remove it that IMO Peavey loses a lot by it. Updating it to a more appealing look might go a long way to getting people to leave it alone, and encourage new musicians to look at the brand in a new light. It's kinda hard for a kid that wants to get the same gear as his favorite player to ID stuff if the player is embarassed by the logo and tapes it over. I know it gets done, as a tech on tours throughout the 90's I went through rolls of gaffers tape doing just that.
- Roger Rettig
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- Neil Harms
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Since you asked....
100 Watts tube power. But... Two channels where you can decide how much power to use. 100 Watts for the steel side and then only use anywhere from 5 to 100 watts for the lap steel/guitar side. Simple channel switch between the two. No shared EQ's. No shared inputs. Two inputs per channel would be best. Also the ability to switch speaker cabs as the channel switches. Could go from an internal 15 to an external 12, etc. This in my opinion would be the perfect rig for those of us that double on guitar, harmonica, lap steel, etc.
Reverb is a must. Trem and Delay would be really nice perks.
Tilt-back legs. Head only model available. Effects loop per channel and direct outs per channel.
You did say to dream....
Now if I can just get you guys to give me a job testing and playing this stuff.... N.
100 Watts tube power. But... Two channels where you can decide how much power to use. 100 Watts for the steel side and then only use anywhere from 5 to 100 watts for the lap steel/guitar side. Simple channel switch between the two. No shared EQ's. No shared inputs. Two inputs per channel would be best. Also the ability to switch speaker cabs as the channel switches. Could go from an internal 15 to an external 12, etc. This in my opinion would be the perfect rig for those of us that double on guitar, harmonica, lap steel, etc.
Reverb is a must. Trem and Delay would be really nice perks.
Tilt-back legs. Head only model available. Effects loop per channel and direct outs per channel.
You did say to dream....
Now if I can just get you guys to give me a job testing and playing this stuff.... N.
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Roger..That's a good question..I can only speak for myself. I make my living creating or reproducing logo's, as I have been a signpainter/artist since 1965.
A logo on a product adds to the asthetics of any thing that it is applied to.
Some logo's just add to the product, The Cadillac script, the Ford script, the Fender script, the Sho-Bud script, Budwieser's script..DAMN, I'm beginning to see a pattern here.
The point is I won't wear a piece of clothing with something on it that is
ugly and I won't have an amp on stage with a logo that is poorly done.
I don't mind taking the logo's off of a piece of gear that I own..I'm merely trying to offer something constructive to somebody that makes GREAT products and that we should all be PROUD to help promote by displaying thier corporate identity.
I haven't even mentionioned the market for clothing...on stage and at shows I see Sho-Bud, Fender and others logo's on hats and shirts...I seldom see a Peavey logo...With all of the guys using these great products there should be a sea of Peavey logo's out there.
www.jackfrancist-shirts.com <font size="1" color="#8e236b"><p align="center">[This message was edited by Jack Francis on 24 February 2006 at 06:25 AM.]</p></FONT>
A logo on a product adds to the asthetics of any thing that it is applied to.
Some logo's just add to the product, The Cadillac script, the Ford script, the Fender script, the Sho-Bud script, Budwieser's script..DAMN, I'm beginning to see a pattern here.
The point is I won't wear a piece of clothing with something on it that is
ugly and I won't have an amp on stage with a logo that is poorly done.
I don't mind taking the logo's off of a piece of gear that I own..I'm merely trying to offer something constructive to somebody that makes GREAT products and that we should all be PROUD to help promote by displaying thier corporate identity.
I haven't even mentionioned the market for clothing...on stage and at shows I see Sho-Bud, Fender and others logo's on hats and shirts...I seldom see a Peavey logo...With all of the guys using these great products there should be a sea of Peavey logo's out there.
www.jackfrancist-shirts.com <font size="1" color="#8e236b"><p align="center">[This message was edited by Jack Francis on 24 February 2006 at 06:25 AM.]</p></FONT>
- Roger Rettig
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I see that, Jack, and there's no doubt that some logos appeal to me more than others. Emmons' is terrific, because it evokes the era into which the brand was born, and there's a correlation between steels and American cars (for some reason that I'm unable to fathom - it must be the mixture of chromium and 'cool' panache, I suppose).
The 'Gretsch' on their headstocks is ugly and cheap-looking, but I don't want it changed any more than I want Mr Peavey to change his - it's indelibly associated with the product in my mind.
'Peavey' isn't the prettiest logo out there, but it's instantly identifiable, even from a distance.
I understand from reading earlier threads on the topic that Hartley is fond of his logo - that's good enough for me ...
Thank you for your thoughtful response.
RR
The 'Gretsch' on their headstocks is ugly and cheap-looking, but I don't want it changed any more than I want Mr Peavey to change his - it's indelibly associated with the product in my mind.
'Peavey' isn't the prettiest logo out there, but it's instantly identifiable, even from a distance.
I understand from reading earlier threads on the topic that Hartley is fond of his logo - that's good enough for me ...
Thank you for your thoughtful response.
RR
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- Jerry Van Hoose
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Now I am even more confused with Peavey thinking about something else new.
I like the rack or seperate head and speaker configuration for the handyness of it. I love my Profex II and Evans and have ne complaints about tone or convienence.
I have been thinking about two 112's or a Revelation, but no matter which way I wind up going, it will probably envolve a Lexicon to complete the system.
So I guess my final response to the question Mike Brown posed would be:
Seperate speakers, 12" or 15", One or two
cabs.
Seperate control head in a rack containing
Power (maybe a little more power without losing the 112 qualities), EQ, Lexicon type effects, and a
Sarno Black Box.
Yes the tiltback legs would be a nice option.
Thanks listening.
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Keep pickin', Larry
I like the rack or seperate head and speaker configuration for the handyness of it. I love my Profex II and Evans and have ne complaints about tone or convienence.
I have been thinking about two 112's or a Revelation, but no matter which way I wind up going, it will probably envolve a Lexicon to complete the system.
So I guess my final response to the question Mike Brown posed would be:
Seperate speakers, 12" or 15", One or two
cabs.
Seperate control head in a rack containing
Power (maybe a little more power without losing the 112 qualities), EQ, Lexicon type effects, and a
Sarno Black Box.
Yes the tiltback legs would be a nice option.
Thanks listening.
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Keep pickin', Larry
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Mike,
First of all, thank you for the opportunity to voice my ideas. I now use two Nashville 112's and could not be more pleased. My only suggestion would be is to install an AC outlet on the rear panel for those of us who use delay and other outboard effects. It would make setting up for a gig much simpler (and neater).
First of all, thank you for the opportunity to voice my ideas. I now use two Nashville 112's and could not be more pleased. My only suggestion would be is to install an AC outlet on the rear panel for those of us who use delay and other outboard effects. It would make setting up for a gig much simpler (and neater).
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It seems clear that everyone has a good idea of the sound they're striving for, and most have combinations they've adopted as workable. As I've just started to try and tackle the steel, I've asked a lot of questions of those I've come in contact with and one theme seems to be the weight. Most of us are getting a bit tired of carrying around a lot of weight, so several people mentioned that it's best to have an Amp that is seperate from the Speaker Cabinet(s). This isn't needed for the Nashville 112 size Amp, but many work with a 15" speaker, and they tend to be heavy.
If I were designing a new Amp, I'd also give some thought to using the Amp Modeling technology (such as the PODxt) to provide flexibility, building that around a good clean amp/speaker combination. This is probably overkill for most steel players, but I'm a sucker for having lots of options.
If I were designing a new Amp, I'd also give some thought to using the Amp Modeling technology (such as the PODxt) to provide flexibility, building that around a good clean amp/speaker combination. This is probably overkill for most steel players, but I'm a sucker for having lots of options.
Hmm. Lots of ideas seem to want to turn it into something that it's not. A large concert hall ready "Do-all" rack mountable component heavy tube popping Pod-xt..
I carried it to a gig last night and paid attention to what my suggestions were.
First, while carrying it out to the pickup, I had the "knob side" next to my leg. The knobs caught my pants leg. That's why I usually find all my knobs pegged to one end or the other when I set up. I broke the reverb knob after trying to straighten it after a similar brush against my leg some time ago. Sherter knobs would be about half the battle.
I don't miss the reverb however, and even the cheapest of "digital reverbs" seem to give a much less muddy/flat reverb. It's always been that way, and they are the best rheostat recievers know to man.
I plugged it into the PA with the XLR out, as my Nvl was not behaving well for some reason, and it worked perfectly as always.
Then as always I covered the cooling vent with something that keeps the bugs, dust, beer, etc out, and the heat in. A couple side vents fed from inside with maybe convection channels would do fine without a fan.
Maybe two birds would be killed if it indeed had more watts available for an outboard speaker cab, but if I need a "big rig" I just pack my Nvl or my 500. The BM speaker and DDT compressor seems to make it the best match without not having to worry about blowing things up or "solid state crap out".
The Logo has troubled me until I saw the oval shaped one on other amps. Less "Gumby Looking" I think.
Tubes are a PITA, and obsolete due to 24 bit modelling, and each individual seems to have his own preference for the "model".
Anyhow there are already alternate coverings available, like that cheap tweed repop stuff that comes off on the first tailgate or door frame.. Sheesh. That's why they ditched it in the 60s.
Great Amp. I use mine every week at gigs, rehearsals, and recording.
I look for an even better result with this suggestion process.
Kudos again Mike.
EJL
I carried it to a gig last night and paid attention to what my suggestions were.
First, while carrying it out to the pickup, I had the "knob side" next to my leg. The knobs caught my pants leg. That's why I usually find all my knobs pegged to one end or the other when I set up. I broke the reverb knob after trying to straighten it after a similar brush against my leg some time ago. Sherter knobs would be about half the battle.
I don't miss the reverb however, and even the cheapest of "digital reverbs" seem to give a much less muddy/flat reverb. It's always been that way, and they are the best rheostat recievers know to man.
I plugged it into the PA with the XLR out, as my Nvl was not behaving well for some reason, and it worked perfectly as always.
Then as always I covered the cooling vent with something that keeps the bugs, dust, beer, etc out, and the heat in. A couple side vents fed from inside with maybe convection channels would do fine without a fan.
Maybe two birds would be killed if it indeed had more watts available for an outboard speaker cab, but if I need a "big rig" I just pack my Nvl or my 500. The BM speaker and DDT compressor seems to make it the best match without not having to worry about blowing things up or "solid state crap out".
The Logo has troubled me until I saw the oval shaped one on other amps. Less "Gumby Looking" I think.
Tubes are a PITA, and obsolete due to 24 bit modelling, and each individual seems to have his own preference for the "model".
Anyhow there are already alternate coverings available, like that cheap tweed repop stuff that comes off on the first tailgate or door frame.. Sheesh. That's why they ditched it in the 60s.
Great Amp. I use mine every week at gigs, rehearsals, and recording.
I look for an even better result with this suggestion process.
Kudos again Mike.
EJL
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A RUGGED all tube head..matching cabs in 1x12-1x15 and 2x12.. possibly available in a combo also.. voiced for steel.. with flexibility !two channels.. one voiced and eq'd for steel and the other for electric guitar... Mike, MANY steel players double these days and the SS Peavey steel amps are not optimum for most 6 string guitarists.... I think Peavey would score a big coup if they came up with a true multi purpose amp with the right tone for guitar and steel.. I would ditch the hi tech frills and digital add ons except perhaps for a GOOD digital reverb/delay setup.. Rugged, reliable, and clean warm tone is what all musicians want.... do we REALLY need another digital SS amp??.. I say tubes are the way to go.. and THANK YOU and everyone else at Peavey for caring enough to ask!!! bob
- James Cann
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- Bobby Snell
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IIRC, the Nv112 surprised the folks at Peavey in that players are using them in bigger live situations than originally recommended. Does this change thinking on a viable tube-for-steel amp? I know I don't need all of my Nv400's power for most honky-tonks. But I do like the sound of a 15" spkr.
Perhaps a portable, 50-100w tube head("voiced" for steel), with the option of 1-12", 1-15", 2-12", 4-10" speaker cabinets?
Anybody try a Classic 30, Pentad, or Valveking into a 15" Black Widow?
Perhaps a portable, 50-100w tube head("voiced" for steel), with the option of 1-12", 1-15", 2-12", 4-10" speaker cabinets?
Anybody try a Classic 30, Pentad, or Valveking into a 15" Black Widow?
- Mike Wheeler
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Well, lots of great suggestions, and dreams.
I love the 112 as it is. It fills the gap in the low to mid-power steel amp line perfectly. So, I wouldn't change anything about it (except maybe a really good, quiet digital reverb).
Much has been said on this forum about the lack of power in the NV112 (for some situations), others are happy with it as is.
Why not expand on the NV112 line. How about the exact same preamp head (minus the power amp, of course) in a rack mount configuration. Many like the controls next to the steel for tweaking.
Then for the speakers, make powered cabs that uses the SAME power amp design from the NV112 (this would be critical)...a 15" cab with 150 watts, and a 12" cab with 85 watts...(an option to clamp the head to a cab would be nice, too).
Now a steeler can have great versatility to devise a wide variety of setups to suit his needs or that of the venue and still have that great NV112 sound...just louder!
1. The current NV112, with a single remote 85 watt, 12" cab.
2. Rack preamp with 1 or 2 cabs (85 wt. or 150 wt., 12" or 15")
3. For the heavy hitters, you could add more power by adding more cabs.
Etc., etc.
Need a setup for steel AND guitar??...get two preamps and "Y" the outputs together while using the same cabs. And all the pieces would be rather light weight, to boot.
I just need light weight AND maximum versatility for setups. Peavey has done similar things with other amp lines, why not the NV112 line?
Just some ideas...
I love the 112 as it is. It fills the gap in the low to mid-power steel amp line perfectly. So, I wouldn't change anything about it (except maybe a really good, quiet digital reverb).
Much has been said on this forum about the lack of power in the NV112 (for some situations), others are happy with it as is.
Why not expand on the NV112 line. How about the exact same preamp head (minus the power amp, of course) in a rack mount configuration. Many like the controls next to the steel for tweaking.
Then for the speakers, make powered cabs that uses the SAME power amp design from the NV112 (this would be critical)...a 15" cab with 150 watts, and a 12" cab with 85 watts...(an option to clamp the head to a cab would be nice, too).
Now a steeler can have great versatility to devise a wide variety of setups to suit his needs or that of the venue and still have that great NV112 sound...just louder!
1. The current NV112, with a single remote 85 watt, 12" cab.
2. Rack preamp with 1 or 2 cabs (85 wt. or 150 wt., 12" or 15")
3. For the heavy hitters, you could add more power by adding more cabs.
Etc., etc.
Need a setup for steel AND guitar??...get two preamps and "Y" the outputs together while using the same cabs. And all the pieces would be rather light weight, to boot.
I just need light weight AND maximum versatility for setups. Peavey has done similar things with other amp lines, why not the NV112 line?
Just some ideas...