Chrome Shop

For people who build steel guitars

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Rich Cottle
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Joined: 15 Apr 1999 12:01 am
Location: Sacramento California
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Chrome Shop

Post by Rich Cottle »

Hi folks I just got my endplates back from the chrome shop , they came out excellent

https://www.shermsplating.com/

Image
Last edited by Rich Cottle on 2 Jan 2025 5:03 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Rich Cottle
Posts: 243
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Location: Sacramento California
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Decal

Post by Rich Cottle »

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Chris Templeton
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Post by Chris Templeton »

Very nice, Rich!
Excel 3/4 Pedal With An 8 String Hawaiian Neck, Sierra Tapper (10 string with a raised fretboard to fret with fingers), Single neck Fessenden 3/5
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Ross Shafer
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Location: Petaluma, California

Post by Ross Shafer »

Happy Hot Dang New Year Rich!

I haven't needed any chrome in a long while...partially though because the local folks closed down years ago...Sacto isn't too far from me though. Can you share the shop's name with me please?

Muchas Gracias!
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Rich Cottle
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Re: Chrome Shop

Post by Rich Cottle »

Here's a picture of the bottom of my endplates and yeah Mullen makes there's kinda like this except they use a break to bend 3/32" steel and they use pre-made tapped steel blocks for the leg sockets which they spot weld in
Rex's Bottom 2.jpg
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Last edited by Rich Cottle on 23 Mar 2025 9:37 am, edited 1 time in total.
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J D Sauser
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Re: Chrome Shop

Post by J D Sauser »

Gorgeous.

Just one suggestion:
IF your neck is solid wood (not just a cap), do yourself a favor and consider to bolt the changer plate with two 3" screws against the neck. You will have to tighten all three, the neck, keyhead assembly and changer plate together slowly, going "around".
I modded my 80's MSA like that using also 3" wood screws on the keyhead end and the tone changed tremendously!

You will thou have to mark your penetration points on the wood and pre-drill with in the size of your screws core so not to risk cracking the neck and use Torx™ headed screws with a ratchet tool which allows you to come out oblique out of the changer plate.

I should also add that I opted to slow-cure-epoxy glue the screwed down neck for added rigidity. I got now very manageable pedal-drop-detuning and as I said above, tone to dye for on a guitar which is often rated as "dark".

The idea came from some event a witnessed at the CARTER factory in Mesquite, TX in the late 90's, where Bud and John would stand at opposite ends of brand new guitars, with tow-by-fours against the changer plate on one end the the keyhead at the other and big ol' rubber mallets and "knock" the guitars "together". A Bud idea, as John explained what the called "knockin'em together", which the felt brought about more fairly equally good sounding guitars.

Suggestion at your own risk, thou!... J-D.
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Rich Cottle
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Re: Chrome Shop

Post by Rich Cottle »

I have cut that MSA changer block down from 1-1/16" to 3/4" with my milling machine and all 6 machine screws got chopped down too , then I made the neck from a solid piece of wood and I screw it down with 6 sheet metal screws also "I never use torx , I never heard of hardwood cracking , if anything you'll break the screw , I drill pilot holes which I learned in the sixth grade , I never heard of anybody gluing down the neck

What your seeing here is everything is just sitting there , it's just for show , I'm still in the process of doing the paint job , I've painted and water sanded it and the neck 24 times and I've still got to make the decals and paint it another 6 times with clear paint , I used to paint cars for a living , I use automotive paint with hardner

I've custom made this body to 11/16" thick , the MSA classics are 1-1/16" and their awful muddy with very little sustain , I've used 1/2" and 5/8" before but I prefer 11/16" the best , they get that push-pull emmons sound , I've been building left handed pedal steel guitars for 30 years , now what
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