Tuning Splits for Excel Superb

[Justin Shaw]

I searched on the forum but couldn't find out how to do this, and don't want to bother Mitsuo as I'm sure someone on here knows. Starting a thread will save him not just my question but hopefully most future askers of the same question!

What is the step-by-step procedure for setting and tuning splits on the Excel Superb? Mine is keyless if that matters, and has the split screws on the neck side of the changer, on each string. I have an E to F# change on a pedal and my normal E lower knee lever. Is it possible to split it so it just goes to Eb even if the F# is pressed? I assume I'll have to have a note "in the middle" so I'll go with E haha.

[Oliver Samland]

Hey Justin,
it is actually just simple math: you raise your E to F# = 2 half steps up. Now your knee lever lowers the F# by a half step. With both changes engaged you end up on F.

Tuning procedure:
1. tune your open strings
2. tune your pedal raising E to F#
3. tune your E lower knee lever WITH THE ABOVE MENTIONED PEDAL ENGAGED (so you tune the F note) on the nylon hex nut
4. tune your E lower knee lever (no other pedal engaged = Eb note) on the split tuning screw

I hope that helps!
Good luck,
Ollie

[Justin Shaw]

That makes total sense I'm glad it's that straightforward.

Thank you very much for making it so clear!

[Pete Burak]

Hi Justin,
Please let us know if you are able to get the split-screw to reach the changer-finger, so that it is now the Stop for your E-to-Eb(s).
Just curious if it works on your Excel.
I basically don't use the split-screws on my Excel Superb because they are difficult to access with an allen-wrench, and appear to be too short to reach the changer-finger.
Tip to others... I should have specified the Splits when I ordeded the Steel, and had them set-up at the factory at time of assembly.
I love 95+% of the features, tone, and playabilty, size/weight, etc, about my Excel Superb, but the Splits, not so much.
As fate would have it, the Split I like to use, AB + B-to-Bb, is pretty much in tune on it's own, so it is not much of an issue in my playing.

[Bobby D. Jones]

Just google, Mickey Adams Split Tuning. He has a video on split tuning and how to adjust the splits.

[Ian Rae]

Pete, your instrument may vary, but mine came equipped with a long ball-end wrench to access the screws, which makes them still awkward but doable.

I lower my 8th string to D# then D on a ½-stop, and I use the 4th-string split to stop 4 going below D#. Works fine for me, but like I say YIMV. (There's no need for the screw to reach all the way to the finger at rest, only when it lowers.)

[mtulbert]

What Ian said,

The split screws are hard to get to but that wrench does work and the splits stay in tune amazingly well.

[Pete Burak]

I have to lower the pickup ti get the wrench into the split-screw.
By the time the split-screw get anywhere near the changer-finger, it is about to fall out of it's threads.
The way they Roddenberry the B-to-Bb on my Steel, the distance the finger moves is so small that the split-screw is not an accurate stop for the Bb notes.
I am actually happier to live without Splits.
I ordered my Steel with a LKL2 that has the B-to-C raises, and it works perfectly.
I also have RKL2, which lowers G#'s-to-G, which eliminates the other Split I like to use.

[Pete Burak]

I have to lower the pickup to get the wrench into the split-screw.
By the time the split-screw gets anywhere near the changer-finger, it's about to fall out of it's threads.
The way they rodded the B-to-Bb on my Steel, the distance the finger moves is so small that the split-screw is not an accurate stop for the Bb notes.
I am actually happier, now, to live without Splits.
I ordered my Steel with a LKL2 that has the B-to-C raises, and it works perfectly.
I also have RKL2, which lowers G#'s-to-G, which eliminates the other Split I like to use.
On my Sierra Session Series S12U, the Splits are so easy to use and tune, and function so perfectly, I just presumed I would set the Excel up exactly the same way.
Wish I would have specified the Splits when I placed the order, so they would have rodded it better and set the Splits before shipping.
I am actually thinking of flying to Japan to get this fixed.

[mtulbert]

Pete,

Perhaps a longer split screw could do the trick. Just a thought.

Mark

[Justin Shaw]

I lower my 8th string to D# then D on a ½-stop...

Do you need to order 1/2 stops from the factory or is there a way to do them on all Excel Superbs? I had no 1/2s on my factory copedent and now I don't see a way to do them. I imagine I need to order parts from the factory now.

[mtulbert]

Justin
The split screws are to the left of the changer. Holes are small and you need small Allan wrench that was sent with your steel to make the changes.

Hope this helps

[Justin Shaw]

OK right but the split screws aren't how you do half stop changes are they?

[Ian Rae]

You're right, splits and half stops are different things, although they sometimes get the same result.
I use a 1st string lower as a half stop for my 8th string lower to D#/D.
The nylon tuner tunes the D# and the return spring tension adjusts how firm the stop is.
I use the split screw on 4 to hold it at D#.

[Justin Shaw]

Oh OK I understand what you mean now.

I've been pretty crude with my half stop application. I'm mostly just wanting to tune the notes that occur when two pedals conflict haha.

[J D Sauser]

On the Excel Superb the split tuning screw face forward towards the pickup and are somewhat difficult to reach and tune-check with string ringing and the hex wrench sticking in.

The longes lowering pull it the one that comes out of the raise position because the string is stretched out further.

So, the split aforementioned split screw serves as the stopper to the lower-ONLY. Which is nice because, the changer finger rests against the changer block and vibration goes from the string thru the body and not mechanical clutter and/or springs... the "Push-Pull"-advantage.
So, the "Split"-screw does NOT do what it's name suggests, rather it tunes the shorter lower only.

I generally tune that pull first (the set screw). Evidently, after having tuned the setscrew stop, and enough travel at the nylon hex-tuner nut at the changer to reach that stop, you need to be left with enough slack to add more pull on the hex tuner nut to tune to "split" you hold the raise engaged and add pull on the Hex-Tuning nut at the changer. You will want to play with the combination, releasing the raise and engaging it again adding the lower until you can replicate the correctly tempered "split" note.

Then, when you activate only the lower, you might feel a little "half"-stop, as the finger hits the stop-screw and but the lever still goes further until it hits it's travel stop.

It works VERY reliably on both my Excels Superbs which are about a Decade from another in age.
The only issue I've had was some stop screw being too loose. I fixed that with hitting an indent with a pointe on top of where the screw hole it to tighten the fit. Not precision mechanically orthodox, but works.


... J-D.

[Justin Shaw]

OK thank you I appreciate it! There's lots of nuance here. I really wish there was a manual.