George Boards Conversion Kit - help, please

[Lloyd Graves]

A while back I got a Rogue lapsteel for cheap and then bought the George Boards conversion kit. I'm finally getting around to putting it together and am in need of assistance. I've read and reread the instructions on the GB site and they aren't clear to me.

Is there a video available, or instructions with corresponding photos? Or even just better photos of a completed steel?

The photos on the GB site don't show how far back the metal plate goes (does it hang over?) And it shows the saddle about 1/4" in front of the end of that plate. But that puts my nut too far into the string slots. Also, the holes in the saddle line up perfectly with the holes in the plate. Why not just use those and save some drilling?

Any other tips are appreciated!

[George Piburn]

When I designed these RetroFit Kits; now several years ago, mine needed the RetroFit nut pushed forward as far as possible too.

In recent times I've gotten a few of these length calls, my suggestion is to fabricate a little piece of wood and glue it on back at the end.

The client that told me about it used a paint stir stick from the paint store add some glue and 2 little #4 screws to hold it on.

About my online instructions, I simply shared what I did to upgrade a Rogue we bought online.

It is only meant to be a guideline to help the buyer. We do include in the instruction description the Kit Requires Effort and Ingenuity.

Honestly it is pretty easy to drill a few holes and turn a few screws
using a tape measure to set the distance from edge to edge of the nut and Bridge to 22.5 inches.

I've sold hundreds of these RetroFit kits all around the globe and no one has needed to take one to a guitar shop to set it up.

Take your time - it is worth the effort to make that Rogue 22.5 with more gooder string spacing and V groove depths.

Happy New Year to All.

[Matthew Lyons]

Quick question regarding these conversions...if I want to order a D tuning one and then down the line want to convert to C6 tuning would I just swap out the bridge and nut? Is it that easy?

[George Piburn]

Yes , the footprint is the same for both,

the open EDG have deeper notches for heavier gauge strings and the nut is 3/8 and bridge is .015 wider per space.

The C6th are 11/32 nut and 3/8 bridge and shallower for lighter gauge strings.

I can sell the 3D parts separately from the full RetroFit kit

[Matthew Lyons]

Yes , the footprint is the same for both,

the open EDG have deeper notches for heavier gauge strings and the nut is 3/8 and bridge is .015 wider per space.

The C6th are 11/32 nut and 3/8 bridge and shallower for lighter gauge strings.

I can sell the 3D parts separately from the full RetroFit kit

Fantastic! Thanks for the response. I’m going to order the EDG kit and see how that goes. I think that’ll start me. See about the C6 later down the road!

Thanks again!

[George Piburn]

Thanks Matthew

I am glad to help folks.

Just in case anyone wants to put more sustain and zip into their project i also have these with a slab of Brass in nut and bridge for 6 and 8 string.

[Matthew Lyons]

Thanks Matthew

I am glad to help folks.

Just in case anyone wants to put more sustain and zip into their project i also have these with a slab of Brass in nut and bridge for 6 and 8 string.

That will fit with the refit package? Can I order that as part of it?

Thanks!

[Lloyd Graves]

We do include in the instruction description the Kit Requires Effort and Ingenuity.

That was VERY freeing.

No need to add anything to the back end.

I found it helpful to just put the fretboard on and take measurements from that. If i was to do it again I wouldn't have used matchsticks to fill the screw holes. But it isn't horrible.

I would have used a hands screwdriver for the #4 machine screws too, as I stepped a couple out.

I'll be stringing it up shortly.

Thanks!

[George Piburn]

Lloyd ,

Congratulations on a great job. The photo looks awesome.

I knew you could figure it out and without too much effort after all.

Glad to Help You.

George Mr.Boards

[Matthew Lyons]

We do include in the instruction description the Kit Requires Effort and Ingenuity.

That was VERY freeing.

No need to add anything to the back end.

I found it helpful to just put the fretboard on and take measurements from that. If i was to do it again I wouldn't have used matchsticks to fill the screw holes. But it isn't horrible.

I would have used a hands screwdriver for the #4 machine screws too, as I stepped a couple out.

I'll be stringing it up shortly.

Thanks!

Awesome! I should be getting my kit tomorrow and am looking forward to the conversion. Did you find it terribly hard to do?

Looks great! Congrats!

[Lloyd Graves]

That's an interesting question. I was in a rush to get the conversion done as I had sat on the rogue and the GB kit for months. And suddenly I was leaving for Puerto Rico in two days. As a result, I just went for it and found it very easy.

If i had had time to really focus on everything I would have worried more about keeping things square and would have wanted to add wood to the back to give it more space to fit. But none of that was necessary.

I would recommend you go out and get yourself the #4, 3/4" machine screws (four of them) and some wood putty now. Because that is all you need extra.

And as I mentioned, I found it helpful to just replace the fretboard first. Then take measurements for the saddle and metal piece (from the original saddle) - dry fit with painters tape and mark the drill holes with a sharpie. Have a file on hand for the back of the metal piece. I added the nut last because I was using a measuring tape.

If you look closely, my saddle isn't perfectly perpendicular to the strings - I didn't predrill those holes. ( But it still works.

Good luck on your conversion!

[Matthew Lyons]

Thanks for the tips! I’m going to start it tomorrow night and see where I get. How many holes am I drilling? What size bit did you use?

Thanks again and have fun in PR. I have a bunch of music friends in Rincon.

[Matthew Lyons]

Finally got to start on the conversion kit. Stripped everything off and today I'm going to put some wood filler in those holes and wait for them to dry and then buff them so they're smooth. I'm also going to put on the bridge.

For those that have done it would it be advantageous to lay out the fingerboard from the edge of the metal pickguard going down towards the nut and then install the nut? Tight fit but I can see if coming together.

Thanks for all the advice!

[George Piburn]

Matthew

I suggest you do as Lloyd did and blue tape everything before any permanent placement.

You can also tuck the bridge end of the fret sticker a little under the front of the metal pickguard thing.

Tape measure and blue tape is your friend.

I am proud of you guys for making your Rogues into masterpieces or at least much more playable.

Thanks too for talking about it on the Forum, so other folks dipping their toes into lap steel with an entry level instrument
can consider this low cost RetroFit and see just how easy it is.

[Matthew Lyons]

You're more than welcome. I'm on a couple of lap steel groups on Facebook, if it's okay I can spread the word. Lots of folks have gotten the Rogue for the holidays and are looking for direction. I like this project and am hoping for a great outcome!

Matty

[Lloyd Graves]

I taped everything in place but when I saw that it would work out, I put the fretboard in place first and worked off that. I used the nut-end of the sticker to measure and dry fit the saddle. Once it was marked (sharpie to mark screw holes for the metal piece and the saddle's screw holes) I took the metal piece off and drilled holes for the saddle - I think it was a 1/4" hole. (I used a bit that allows the #4s slid through smoothly so the screws would draw the metal piece to the guitar body. Then I put the saddle end together as instructed in the GB page. Once the saddle was in place I taped the nut down with blue tape, predrilled, and screwed it down.

I've been playing it all week and LOVE it! George's kit is amazing. It's a great, lightweight steel I can take as a carry-on when traveling. Highly recommended.

I do wish I had replaced the tuners. The rogue tunes are subpar and I know I have a set of classical guitar tuners laying songs somewhere. Next time I restring it...

Thanks too for talking about it on the Forum, so other folks dipping their toes into lap steel with an entry level instrument
can consider this low cost RetroFit and see just how easy it is.

The check is in the mail, right? :oP

Seriously, it's a sweet kit. Especially if you can score a Rogue or Artisan off of Goodwill Auctions for $50.



I'm looking forward to seeing your completed project Matthew!

[Matthew Lyons]

Thanks Lloyd! I'm hoping to finish it this weekend. My wife and I have a just turned one year old that has so much energy that it's tough to find some quiet time. Hopefully he naps over the weekend!

Really looking forward to playing it! I'll definitely post some photos!

Have a great weekend all!

[Matthew Lyons]

Finished. A little daunting but in the end it came out all right I think! A little crooked but she plays nice! Thanks for all of the help!

[David Irving]

Mine isn't dead straight either, but my intonation isn't yet accurate enough for that to be a huge problem …

[Matthew Lyons]

I might re-drill the holes and straighten her out. In hindsight I should have used a level and lined them up evenly. But, it's working out nice!

I also picked up another cheap steel on Amazon for a steal with gift cards I got for the holdiays. $22 bucks out of pocket:




Maybe make this the D tuning and the Rogue a C6th. Anyone go back an forth between tunings or is it best to stick with one for awhile to get it down?

Have a great day!

[Matthew Lyons]

Just a heads up to everyone that the Steel I got off of Amazon had some issues.

I got it on Friday and it was sent with a nut so low that it was unplayable. I had a nut extender that I had purchased and modified it to work. Everything else about it worked nicely: decent pickup, good looks, and right price.

But you get what you pay for sometimes. It sounds pretty good right now and I may keep it and just redo the nut and use it as a learning steel for a C6 tuning. I included some photos just to show. The first shows how low the action is and the next the modification with the nut extender.