Welding Aluminum
Moderator: J D Sauser
- Sonny Jenkins
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- Location: Texas Masonic Retirement Center,,,Arlington Tx
Welding Aluminum
Wondering if there is anyone on here that welds aluminum. I've done some old time stick welding,,,and even some mig,,,but I know very little about the process of welding aluminum. I tried some aluminum sticks,,like brazing rod with a torch,,,even used my little jewelers torch which can control the heat very well,,,but the difference in temperature is so critical,,,and it doesn't actually melt into the work. You tube makes that method look pretty good but didn't work that well for me.
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I think AC tig is the way to go. These work for light duty repairs. https://www.menards.com/main/tools/weld ... 532121.htm
- John Larson
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TIG or MIG is the way to go.
Aluminum is very difficult to weld normally.
It's an exercise in futility to try and stick weld it in my opinion.
Aluminum has a very tough oxidation layer to break through when welding it so make sure the surface you are trying to weld is clean with acetone wipes or such.
Aluminum is very difficult to weld normally.
It's an exercise in futility to try and stick weld it in my opinion.
Aluminum has a very tough oxidation layer to break through when welding it so make sure the surface you are trying to weld is clean with acetone wipes or such.
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- Ronald Sikes
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- J D Sauser
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Yes, TIG is what we use at our SuperCar RestoMod shop. It still takes a very CAPABLE Professional to do a clean and sound weld. Aluminum is not a fun material to go at with a grinder!Ronald Sikes wrote:Sonny, I have a high frequency tig welder . I might could help you out if you need something. Not that far from you.
Ronald. IF you are indeed offering your "services" for prototypers, please feel free to list yourself in the "Parts Builders"-Thread:
https://bb.steelguitarforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=378296
as your offer could go under some times on this thread.
Thanks!... J-D.
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A Little Mental Health Warning:
Tablature KILLS SKILLS.
The uses of Tablature is addictive and has been linked to reduced musical fertility.
Those who produce Tablature did never use it.
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- Andy DePaule
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TIG is best for sure, but....
TIG is best for sure, but they are not cheap.
One of my sons just sent me a wire welder. It is a Harbor Freight one that they sell for about $100 and sometimes a little less.
My son got it in some kind of trade and said he used it and liked the way it worked. He has several kinds of welders so I trust his judgement better than my own.
He said it was for metal and didn't think it would work with aluminum.
However, I watched a couple of you tube videos and you can use it for aluminum welding if you use a special wire with it.
Sorry I don't remember the kind of wire, but will look into that when I get home and give the welder a try out. It's still in the box because I've been so busy getting my garage workshop organized.
Funny how fast we fill up a two car garage with tools and then need a four car garage.
One of my sons just sent me a wire welder. It is a Harbor Freight one that they sell for about $100 and sometimes a little less.
My son got it in some kind of trade and said he used it and liked the way it worked. He has several kinds of welders so I trust his judgement better than my own.
He said it was for metal and didn't think it would work with aluminum.
However, I watched a couple of you tube videos and you can use it for aluminum welding if you use a special wire with it.
Sorry I don't remember the kind of wire, but will look into that when I get home and give the welder a try out. It's still in the box because I've been so busy getting my garage workshop organized.
Funny how fast we fill up a two car garage with tools and then need a four car garage.
Inlaid Star Guitar 2006 by Mark Giles. SD-10 4+5 in E9th; http://luthiersupply.com/instrument-gallery.html
2017 Mullen SD-10, G2 5&5 Polished Aluminum covering. Custom Build for me. Great Steel.
Clinesmith Joaquin Murphy style Aluminum 8 String Lap Steel Short A6th.
Magnatone Jeweltone Series Lap Steel, Circa 1950? 6 String with F#minor7th Tuning.
1956 Dewey Kendrick D-8 4&3, Restoration Project.
1973 Sho~Bud Green SD-10 4&5 PSG, Restoration Project.
2017 Mullen SD-10, G2 5&5 Polished Aluminum covering. Custom Build for me. Great Steel.
Clinesmith Joaquin Murphy style Aluminum 8 String Lap Steel Short A6th.
Magnatone Jeweltone Series Lap Steel, Circa 1950? 6 String with F#minor7th Tuning.
1956 Dewey Kendrick D-8 4&3, Restoration Project.
1973 Sho~Bud Green SD-10 4&5 PSG, Restoration Project.
- Darvin Willhoite
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The TIG welder is just part of the cost, you have to have a bottle of inert gas for shielding. The bottle and gas is up to about $600 in my area. You only have to pay once for the bottle, then you can exchange it for a full one when it runs out. I think my last exchange was about $40.00.
Darvin Willhoite
MSA Millennium, Legend, and Studio Pro, Reese's restored Universal Direction guitar, as well as some older MSAs, several amps, new and old, and a Kemper Powerhead that I am really liking. Recently added a Zum D10, a Mullen RP, and a restored blue Rose, named the "Blue Bird" to the herd. Also, I have acquired and restored the plexiglass D10 MSA Classic again that was built as a demo in the early '70s. I also added a '74 lacquer P/P, with wood necks.
MSA Millennium, Legend, and Studio Pro, Reese's restored Universal Direction guitar, as well as some older MSAs, several amps, new and old, and a Kemper Powerhead that I am really liking. Recently added a Zum D10, a Mullen RP, and a restored blue Rose, named the "Blue Bird" to the herd. Also, I have acquired and restored the plexiglass D10 MSA Classic again that was built as a demo in the early '70s. I also added a '74 lacquer P/P, with wood necks.
- Doug Earnest
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- Sonny Jenkins
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Around here $150 "set up fee" is frequently what they ask. For a Builder or Manufacturer that can provide them several hours work that may be fine,,,,but for my 15-20 minutes worth of welding,,,,,,and certainly would not justify the cost of buying equipment. VERY fortunate for me I've had a couple of VERY kind offers from "forum family" members to help me out should I need it. I can normally find a way to get around the need for welding,,,but,,,sometimes,,,,,,???
- Robert B Murphy
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- Location: Mountain View, Arkansas, USA
For fine aluminum TIG is the only way to go. The gas has to be 100% argon and not the 75/25 ar/co2 usually found at the local welding supply (LWS) vendor. The aluminum has to be really clean (sanding and solvent) and the dc offset to the ac current has to be right to float off the oxide layer on the puddle. The lanthanated or thoriated electrode tip needs to be ground correctly on a diamond wheel and by the way, the dust is toxic. Then you need an experienced hand to get a good result. Go to a pro unless you're really interested in learning how to do it and money is no object.
Aluminum burns at welding temperatures. It must be melted in an inert atmosphere. There is a coating made for filler, not a flux, that makes a little gas bubble around the puddle to protect it from oxidation but you need an arc to make the gas bubble and by then you already have slag. Don't expect much from it.
Aluminum burns at welding temperatures. It must be melted in an inert atmosphere. There is a coating made for filler, not a flux, that makes a little gas bubble around the puddle to protect it from oxidation but you need an arc to make the gas bubble and by then you already have slag. Don't expect much from it.
Last edited by Robert B Murphy on 14 Apr 2022 6:38 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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- Scott Duckworth
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Re: TIG is best for sure, but....
Just a tip on the cheapee Harbor Freight welder (and others like it). There are instructions on the web how to convert those to DC welders. Makes them weld with a lot less spatter using flux core wire. Just a thought for general usage.Andy DePaule wrote:TIG is best for sure, but they are not cheap.
One of my sons just sent me a wire welder. It is a Harbor Freight one that they sell for about $100 and sometimes a little less.
My son got it in some kind of trade and said he used it and liked the way it worked. He has several kinds of welders so I trust his judgement better than my own.
He said it was for metal and didn't think it would work with aluminum.
However, I watched a couple of you tube videos and you can use it for aluminum welding if you use a special wire with it.
Sorry I don't remember the kind of wire, but will look into that when I get home and give the welder a try out. It's still in the box because I've been so busy getting my garage workshop organized.
Funny how fast we fill up a two car garage with tools and then need a four car garage.
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- Andy DePaule
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Re: TIG is best for sure, but....
Hi Scott,Scott Duckworth wrote:Just a tip on the cheapee Harbor Freight welder (and others like it). There are instructions on the web how to convert those to DC welders. Makes them weld with a lot less spatter using flux core wire. Just a thought for general usage.Andy DePaule wrote:TIG is best for sure, but they are not cheap.
One of my sons just sent me a wire welder. It is a Harbor Freight one that they sell for about $100 and sometimes a little less.
My son got it in some kind of trade and said he used it and liked the way it worked. He has several kinds of welders so I trust his judgement better than my own.
He said it was for metal and didn't think it would work with aluminum.
However, I watched a couple of you tube videos and you can use it for aluminum welding if you use a special wire with it.
Sorry I don't remember the kind of wire, but will look into that when I get home and give the welder a try out. It's still in the box because I've been so busy getting my garage workshop organized.
Funny how fast we fill up a two car garage with tools and then need a four car garage.
Thanks for the tip. I certainly can use all the help I can get where welding is concerned.
Best wishes,
Andy
Inlaid Star Guitar 2006 by Mark Giles. SD-10 4+5 in E9th; http://luthiersupply.com/instrument-gallery.html
2017 Mullen SD-10, G2 5&5 Polished Aluminum covering. Custom Build for me. Great Steel.
Clinesmith Joaquin Murphy style Aluminum 8 String Lap Steel Short A6th.
Magnatone Jeweltone Series Lap Steel, Circa 1950? 6 String with F#minor7th Tuning.
1956 Dewey Kendrick D-8 4&3, Restoration Project.
1973 Sho~Bud Green SD-10 4&5 PSG, Restoration Project.
2017 Mullen SD-10, G2 5&5 Polished Aluminum covering. Custom Build for me. Great Steel.
Clinesmith Joaquin Murphy style Aluminum 8 String Lap Steel Short A6th.
Magnatone Jeweltone Series Lap Steel, Circa 1950? 6 String with F#minor7th Tuning.
1956 Dewey Kendrick D-8 4&3, Restoration Project.
1973 Sho~Bud Green SD-10 4&5 PSG, Restoration Project.
- Darryl Coyne
- Posts: 16
- Joined: 10 Apr 2021 7:59 am
- Location: Georgia, USA
I can see this thread has been open for a while so maybe it is no longer directly relevant but I like to help where I can. If you have already found a solution, maybe this will help someone else.
On a build I completed about two years ago, I used the "alumiweld" sticks that are available at Harbor Freight to fasten 1" aluminum blocks to bent 1/8" aluminum end plates. While certainly not close to a TIG joint, I have found that the joints look decent and hold up very well. It is a little tricky getting the hang of using the sticks. What worked for me was clamping the block to the end plate and heating the assembly on the stove until it was just starting to deform a little. Once hot, I shut off the burner, then applied a propane torch and alternately worked in the rod and scratched at the joint surfaces with a small screwdriver. The scratching seems to help keep a new oxide layer from forming just long enough for the "weld" to adhere. The first few were difficult but not bad once I got the hang of it. The picture shows one of the finished joints.
On a build I completed about two years ago, I used the "alumiweld" sticks that are available at Harbor Freight to fasten 1" aluminum blocks to bent 1/8" aluminum end plates. While certainly not close to a TIG joint, I have found that the joints look decent and hold up very well. It is a little tricky getting the hang of using the sticks. What worked for me was clamping the block to the end plate and heating the assembly on the stove until it was just starting to deform a little. Once hot, I shut off the burner, then applied a propane torch and alternately worked in the rod and scratched at the joint surfaces with a small screwdriver. The scratching seems to help keep a new oxide layer from forming just long enough for the "weld" to adhere. The first few were difficult but not bad once I got the hang of it. The picture shows one of the finished joints.
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There are a number of these out there. I have some from Menards that work ok. It is very tough to get them to stick but it does work. I wondered if the Harbor Freight sticks are any better. I like your tip about preheating the metal and scratching. I think this is still relevant. I will never own a proper tig torch, so this is the solution I like. There are some Youtube videos of people testing the strength of these and it seems pretty good. It is probably not acceptable in some applications however.