To Mod Or Not To Mod.

[Dave Hopping]

One thing I really,really like about playing a U-12 is that the 9th string is a B instead of a D, but that the D is available on (in my case) RKR.

So I've been thinking about doing (or having someone do)a conversion on my early '70's Mullen E9 S10 3X3 to where the 2 lowest strings are (9th string) B and (10th string) G#, with pedal A raising 9 to C#, RKR raising it to D, and pedal B raising 10 to A, plus adding an LKR to raise both F#'s to G. Since I've never changed a copedent, I'm not at all sure if it's possible on this guitar; or if it is, how to go about doing it. I have 3 questions:

Is there a shop or reputable guy in or around the Denver area who does copedent changes/KL add-ons? I know there are shops elsewhere who do, but I'd like to avoid shipping if I can.

Are there instruction vids on copedent changes/KL add-ons?

Does anyone have thoughts on the esthetics of making what might be a vintage piece non-standard? Would I be doing the equivalent of installing a Floyd Rose on an original-condition '56 Stratocaster? Same question applies to my '78 Sho-Bud Super Pro D-10, which I'm thinking about having converted to SD-10,plus the same copedent alterations on the E9 neck.Here's an underhood pic of the Mullen

[Chris Reesor]

Two questions apply here.

One: Is this easily reversible? and Two: Are there any holes to be drilled/cut or other changes to what you already have?

The answers are Yes and No, so this is an easy choice.

All you need is two barrels, another rod to reach your second pedal, and a string of the appropriate gauge.

Could we have a topside shot, please?

CR

[Ken Pippus]

How about Mullen? Not that far to Flagler.

[Dennis Detweiler]

I thought about picking up a single 10 and set it up with the G# on the bottom also. I would want all of my other pedals and knees the same as my U-12 minus the 11th and 12th strings and maybe experiment with putting a couple of the B6th floor changes on extra kneelevers? Looks like the old Mullen would require losing some of it's integrity to convert it? Possible, but I'd pick up another S-10 with triple raise and lower. Not sure what the Mullen has in it's changer?

[John Sims]

Hi Dave, My LKL on my U12 raises 9 to a D and my A pedal raises 9 to a C#. I don't have a D# raise on my copedant. My pedal B raises 10 to an A. I don't have any F# changes. Something to consider, however my copedant seems somewhat backwards from a standard U12.

[Dave Hopping]

Thanks for all the good responses. Just got done e-mailing the factory to see if they do that kind of mod. We'll see what they have to say.

@Chris- here's a pic of the front and top.

[John Sims]

Wow Dave! That steel is beautiful! (Of course I'm partial to blondes )

[Tom Gorr]

Sweet axe!

Tough question.

If you have generally mastered the D string on E9 and learned to fluently replicate its use on a Uni - I'd say go for it.

I do miss the extended bottom end of my Uni after switching to D10, and particularly the G#.

That said, putting F#-G on s7 and s1 is good but there are situations where g# to f# on s6 (properly split with B) is invaluable but also gets in the way occasionally. Maybe a split isn't possible on that guitar?

No perfect answers but I would suggest learning how to set up your guitar so you can mess around with it until you find the right blend.

Also - Six levers are better than 5.

[Chris Reesor]

That is a lovely guitar Dave.

Does it sound like the old rack and barrel ShoBud single 10's? If so, it is definitely a keeper.

I missed the part about the fourth lever. Coffee hadn't kicked in at that point. Maybe Mullen still has an original knee lever kit and rack kicking around.
Feeling lucky?

[Dave Meis]

@ Dennis... my '92 PRP is 3 Up and 2 Down..

[Dennis Detweiler]

Both of my MSA's are 2 up and 2 down, so I have to tune my A pedal B to C# under the guitar. I have two pulls with the normal nylon tuner on the end of the guitar and threaded on the other end to tune another raise on the same rod. Works great.

[Tom Gorr]

Both of my MSA's are 2 up and 2 down, so I have to tune my A pedal B to C# under the guitar. I have two pulls with the normal nylon tuner on the end of the guitar and threaded on the other end to tune another raise on the same rod. Works great.

Interesting... I have an unused rod for my MSA that has threads on both ends... now I know why!!!

I presume both bell crank barrels are secured to the same rod, and so when you move one pedal, the other one moves a bit too??

[Dennis Detweiler]

Neither barrels are locked down. I'm not currently at home, but will take a picture of how to set it up. The rod slips through both bell crank barrels. You have to make a piece to slip onto the rod to keep the rod from rotating when tuning it. Then use two larger bullet stops in front of each of two bell crank and locked on the rod. Then you can use one rod to tune two separate pedal or knee pulls. In this case, the 5th and 9th string B to C#'s are tuned from the underside of the guitar. I used two plastic Peavey amp knobs for tuners underneath. Drill through the knobs and thread them. Works well.