Threading 3/32" Diameter rods

Stephen Williams · Post by **Stephen Williams** » 6 Aug 2017 12:54 pm

When I cut 4/40 threads on my 3/32" rods, the thread is not as pronounced as a machine screw in comparison. I mean to say the peaks and valleys are not as big, meaning that a nut would slip off more easily.

I checked the diameter of my rods with a micrometer and they are good. The only odd thing is I can turn the die with my hands which says to me that not enough materials is being taken off.

Any thoughts?

Ross Shafer · Post by **Ross Shafer** » 6 Aug 2017 1:31 pm

Yo Steve, You'll have better luck with a 3-48 thread on a 3/32 rod.

Richard Sinkler · Post by **Richard Sinkler** » 6 Aug 2017 2:44 pm

I've made several 3/32" stainless rods with a 4-40 thread, using a standard die, and never have a problem with the nylon nuts slippng off. If that concerns you, buy new nylon nuts aand screw them onto the rod letting the rod be the "tap". That's what I do.

LaVern Skarzenski · Post by **LaVern Skarzenski** » 6 Aug 2017 5:26 pm

I'll second what Ross said. Several years back I had the same problem with stripping the nylon nuts. Bought me a 3/48 and drilled the plastic nut accordingly and all was well after that.
LaVern

Bobby D. Jones · Post by **Bobby D. Jones** » 6 Aug 2017 6:55 pm

If you are comparing the threads that you cut on your rods, To store bolts or rods in your steel. They may be Rolled threads. As the thread is rolled half the thread is cut down into the rod and half the thread is raised up by the pressure of the Die plates. to get a full thread you will have to go to 3-48 thread like Ross suggested. Good Luck and Happy Steelin.

Jim Park · Post by **Jim Park** » 6 Aug 2017 7:41 pm

3/32 rod is .0937 in diameter, and the major diameter of 4-40 thread is .112, so you need a 7/64 rod to come close to having good threads.

Stephen Williams · Post by **Stephen Williams** » 6 Aug 2017 8:21 pm

Thank ye all good people. I will search for a 3/48 Die then.

If i use a 3/48 die on a 3/32 rod, is there a hollow hex nylon spacer that fits that off the shelf?

Richard Sinkler · Post by **Richard Sinkler** » 7 Aug 2017 6:39 am

Most of the time, the nylon tuners you buy are not threaded. I just checked with Mouser, and they don't have nylon hex spacers/standoffs in 3/48 thread. Just use the threaded rod as a tap for the tuner.

Ross Shafer · Post by **Ross Shafer** » 7 Aug 2017 6:43 am

i've never found any off the shelf "spacers" that work...Michael Yahl at PSG parts offers them though.

Richard Sinkler · Post by **Richard Sinkler** » 7 Aug 2017 6:50 am

Why exactly would 3-48 be better than 4-40? Are many people having issues with 4-40? I realize the threads would be cut deeper, but is it that big of a deal?

LaVern Skarzenski · Post by **LaVern Skarzenski** » 7 Aug 2017 7:14 am

It was a big deal on my GFI. Mine was built March 10, 1995, it is an all pull, S-10, and was originally a 3p, 4l. I added I've added one lever and several pedals over the years but I am back to 4 Pedals and 5 levers. It was while trying these modifications that I began having trouble with the nuts stripping. I was using 3/32, 304 welding rod to make my pull rods. For what it is worth GFI uses a rolled thread which increases the diameter of rod being threaded. Thus you have a smaller rod/ lighter guitar, with the same advantage as a 7/64 rod. I believe that is correct but if not please clarify. As my late buddy Doug Seymour used to say, Gene Fields was a mechanical genius.

LaVern Skarzenski · Post by **LaVern Skarzenski** » 7 Aug 2017 7:33 am

I have a lathe so it wasn't too hard to make my own. If I remember correctly, I did have a bit of trouble finding 3/16 hex stock. I eventually got connected to US plastic through Don Burrows. Here is the link I located this morning:

https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item. ... emid=22963 .

Of course if you don't have access to a lathe you are probably better off looking for the proper nuts already made.

jay thompson · Post by **jay thompson** » 7 Aug 2017 1:58 pm

I have always used a UNC 4-40 die for 3/32" SS rod. That includes re-rodding an Emmoms LeGrand SKH, LeGrande II, and about 1/2 a Carter D-10 with no problems. Check the adjusting screw so it is not spreading the die.

Regards, Jay Thompson

Richard Sinkler · Post by **Richard Sinkler** » 7 Aug 2017 4:18 pm

jay thompson wrote:I have always used a UNC 4-40 die for 3/32" SS rod. That includes re-rodding an Emmoms LeGrand SKH, LeGrande II, and about 1/2 a Carter D-10 with no problems. Check the adjusting screw so it is not spreading the die.

Regards, Jay Thompson

Me too. And I am about to rebuild my Carter D10 undercarriage using the barrels in place of dogbones. I will make new rods for each change.

Bill Hoskins · Post by **Bill Hoskins** » 2 Jun 2020 2:40 pm

Hi Jay,
I would like to thread some 3/32 rods. I am concerned about how to get the die started straight. I saw your old post and was wondering where you got the knurled die stock. It looks like this would work better than the one with handles. Thanks for any advice...Bill

Johnie King · Post by **Johnie King** » 2 Jun 2020 3:50 pm

I wonder if some of the builders might sell a few 3/32 rods with rolled thread. One of the builders offered too sell me enough rods too do a Sd 10, his stock had rolled threads on both ends The rolled threats are the cats meow!

Dave Meis · Post by **Dave Meis** » 2 Jun 2020 4:10 pm

Die nuts are adjustable by tightening (or loosening) the set screw that spans the split. Tightening forces it open for 'less' thread, and loosening it alows it to close for a deeper thread. They have to be adjusted...a small adjustment goes a long way.

Ian Worley · Post by **Ian Worley** » 2 Jun 2020 8:46 pm

Johnie King wrote:I wonder if some of the builders might sell a few 3/32 rods with rolled thread...

Hobby stores sell 3/32" rod with rolled 4-40 thread, up to 36", very inexpensive.

Chris Reesor · Post by **Chris Reesor** » 2 Jun 2020 8:58 pm

Grind a bevel on the end of the rod you are about to thread.
Then fix it firmly in a vise with out too much protrusion or you may bend the end of the rod. I use my nylon jaw Panavise; to get a good non slip grip I fold a strip of fine emery cloth over the rod. This won't mar the rod much if at all.
Start with the correct side of the die; you'll see a conical "entry" ground away from the threads inside the die.
Use RapidTap or equivalent cutting fluid. Keep it wet.
Don't worry if the die is slightly cocked as it starts, it will straighten itself out when it is fully engaged in the cut.
Cut a full turn, then back off a half turn, and repeat until the thread is as long as you need.
It is pretty easy with the right stuff and a little practice.

Larry Hobson · Post by **Larry Hobson** » 3 Jun 2020 3:51 am

Ian,. Which hobby stores ?

Jack Stoner · Post by **Jack Stoner** » 3 Jun 2020 3:57 am

FWIW, Franklin uses 1/8" aluminum rods. He uses a 6-40 die to cut threads on the 1/8" rod.

LaVern Skarzenski · Post by **LaVern Skarzenski** » 3 Jun 2020 5:19 am

Larry Hobson wrote:Ian,. Which hobby stores ?

Hi Larry, There is a website named DU-BRO, https://www.dubro.com/collections/all

That has rods of various diameters and lengths. You might try them. Hope this helps.
LaVern

Dean Smith · Post by **Dean Smith** » 3 Jun 2020 5:32 am

Sometimes, you find yourself in a position where you locate a tuning nut that is loose and you might need it to last a while longer until you get new ones.

I keep Teflon tape in my steel seat. Just a few wraps on the threads and thread the nut back on. Works very well...FWIW

Ian Worley · Post by **Ian Worley** » 3 Jun 2020 1:39 pm

Larry Hobson wrote:Ian,. Which hobby stores ?

https://www.towerhobbies.com, http://www.advantagehobby.com, etc., Amazon, it's the same stuff LaVern linked, 0.093" diameter, used for control linkage in larger RC planes

Bill Hoskins · Post by **Bill Hoskins** » 3 Jun 2020 2:47 pm

Chris,
Thanks for the threading tips. I was concerned about the threads not being straight. Sounds like it's not a big problem.

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