The Steel Guitar Forum Store 

Post new topic 6139 Sho Bud Conundrum
Reply to topic
Author Topic:  6139 Sho Bud Conundrum
Cameron Kerby


From:
Rutledge, TN
Post  Posted 28 Aug 2019 1:03 pm    
Reply with quote

I have recently got my hands on this Sho Bud 6139. It came standard with just (2) knee levers, both on the right knee for raising/lowering E's. I am in the process of converting to a 3x4 with E's on the left but currently waiting on some parts. I have been noodling on it, playing with E's on the right and have ran across a problem. The right knees were positioned very close together and my thigh is wide enough to not fit between the knee levers without having one or the other engaged at all times. I have never ran across this on other guitars, so my thinking is that it was built to fit someone of smaller statue or really liked the levers snug to his/her leg.

Going forward I need to move one knee lever to widen up some space. Does anyone have recommendations on which knee lever assembly may be easier to move or typical measurement rules to play by?



_________________
Sho Bud Steel Guitars
Vintage Peavey Amplification
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail

Gaylen James


From:
Portland, Oregon, USA
Post  Posted 28 Aug 2019 1:10 pm     flip em
Reply with quote

Hey Cameron, looks like you could flip the levers around 180 degrees or put on straight levers. You wouldnt have to move anything and it is totally reversable Very Happy
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail

Tony Prior


From:
Charlotte NC
Post  Posted 28 Aug 2019 1:39 pm    
Reply with quote

Right Knee Left, it can be moved to a new position easily. Remount the cross shaft and STOP block. It looks like in the photo you have about 1/2 of rod available for the two strings, 4 and 8. That may not be enough so you will need to acquire or manufacture TWO rods . Once you measure for placement you will know. This is a very easy move , just make sure when you drill the new holes you mark the drill bit for depth so you don't DRILL TOO DEEP

Don't try to change the location of the Right Knee Right.
_________________
Emmons L-II , Fender Telecasters, B-Benders , Eastman Mandolin ,
Pro Tools 12 on WIN 7 !
jobless- but not homeless- now retired 9 years

CURRENT MUSIC TRACKS AT > https://tprior2241.wixsite.com/website
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website

Jon Light (deceased)


From:
Saugerties, NY
Post  Posted 28 Aug 2019 1:40 pm    
Reply with quote

RKR is not going anywhere further to the right so there's really no decision to be made.

You will need two longer rods but otherwise there is nothing beyond what you see. Figure (carefully) where you want RKL, remove the hardware and reinstall.
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website

Craig A Davidson


From:
Wisconsin Rapids, Wisconsin USA
Post  Posted 28 Aug 2019 5:48 pm    
Reply with quote

Michael Yahl makes teardrop levers with the set screws so you can open up the space on them.
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website

Bob Carlucci

 

From:
Candor, New York, USA
Post  Posted 28 Aug 2019 7:43 pm    
Reply with quote

Craig A Davidson wrote:
Michael Yahl makes teardrop levers with the set screws so you can open up the space on them.

Thats how I would go as well.. Had them on a few Buds, and they work fine...
_________________
I'm over the hill and hittin'rocks on the way down!

no gear list for me.. you don't have the time......
View user's profile Send private message

Douglas Schuch


From:
Valencia, Philippines
Post  Posted 29 Aug 2019 12:11 am    
Reply with quote

An alternative to buying new teardrop levers with the set screws - you could get a dremel tool, or even a hack saw blade, and very carefully cut the slot in the teardrop part of the knee lever to allow it to swing a little more. Check it often - a little bit removed there makes a much bigger difference at the end of the lever. I'd cover the area around it with masking tape so I could not accidently scar it.
_________________
Bringing steel guitar to the bukid of Negros Oriental!
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail

Cameron Kerby


From:
Rutledge, TN
Post  Posted 29 Aug 2019 5:46 am    
Reply with quote

I understand the shape of the teardrops are a concern, but these were placed so close together my knees are in the base of the lever as well so Tony's plan may be the only viable option unfortunately. For relocating the RKL, what would be some typical measurements between knee and lever? Also, would anyone have any how to's for drilling and moving components inside the cabinet for the cleanest look? Thanks!
_________________
Sho Bud Steel Guitars
Vintage Peavey Amplification
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail

Jim Cooley


From:
The 'Ville, Texas, USA
Post  Posted 29 Aug 2019 6:25 am    
Reply with quote

Bob Carlucci wrote:
Craig A Davidson wrote:
Michael Yahl makes teardrop levers with the set screws so you can open up the space on them.


Thats how I would go as well.. Had them on a few Buds, and they work fine...


I installed Michael's teardrop levers on my LDG. They worked great.

You said your knees are in the base of the levers. Do you mean the tops of the levers where they attach to the underside of the steel? Do your quads (fronts of your thighs) hit the botton of the rear apron? I might be picturing it all wrong, but I wonder if you are sitting too high or if the steel is too low for you (steel's legs too short?). Depending on your type of seat, maybe you can lower it. I have a folding piano bench that I use when I don't use my pack-a-seat. It has several height adjustments. If your seat height is good, maybe the steel is too short for you and needs to be raised a little.

Then again, like I said, I might be picturing this wrong.
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail

Tucker Jackson

 

From:
Portland, Oregon, USA
Post  Posted 29 Aug 2019 9:01 am    
Reply with quote

How close the knee levers are to your knee is also affected by where the lever stops are set. It looks like you have some screw length on RKL. If you screw in that stop (and then retune the changes),that should give you a little more space to wedge your knee in there before it engages. They may be touching the side of your knee as they hang, but that's fine as long as they aren't engaging until you move right or left
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail

Ian Worley


From:
Sacramento, CA
Post  Posted 29 Aug 2019 9:55 am    
Reply with quote

Cameron Kerby wrote:
...what would be some typical measurements between knee and lever?...

6" to 7" between the inside faces of the levers is pretty typical. Adjust that to what is comfortable for you. If it's close you could start by moving the rear mount bracket and stop bracket over just one screw hole each so you would only need to drill a couple of new holes. You might consider replacing the vertical front apron mount with one of the little L brackets. There's no magic to the apron mount; drilling and screwing new holes straight into the top is much easier to deal with than screwing into the back of the apron. You can buy a drill bit with depth stop at a hardware store/Home Depot, it's just little set collar that clamps onto the bit with a grub screw. Screws are #8 x 1/2" pan head, hardware store item also. If you wanted to plug the unused screw holes for cosmetics just use some #8 x 1/4" or 3/8" screws.
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail

Tony Prior


From:
Charlotte NC
Post  Posted 29 Aug 2019 10:31 am    
Reply with quote

Cameron Kerby wrote:
I understand the shape of the teardrops are a concern, but these were placed so close together my knees are in the base of the lever as well so Tony's plan may be the only viable option unfortunately. For relocating the RKL, what would be some typical measurements between knee and lever? Also, would anyone have any how to's for drilling and moving components inside the cabinet for the cleanest look? Thanks!


I've done this on a few Sho Buds where the levers were either too close together or too far apart ! Its a very easy mod.
_________________
Emmons L-II , Fender Telecasters, B-Benders , Eastman Mandolin ,
Pro Tools 12 on WIN 7 !
jobless- but not homeless- now retired 9 years

CURRENT MUSIC TRACKS AT > https://tprior2241.wixsite.com/website
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website

richard burton


From:
Britain
Post  Posted 29 Aug 2019 10:53 pm    
Reply with quote

Before you start drilling holes etc try what Tucker Jackson suggests, it's the easy option and will probably fix the problem.
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail

Cameron Kerby


From:
Rutledge, TN
Post  Posted 5 Sep 2019 6:34 am    
Reply with quote

Ok, I've taken a few measurements to build off of what Ian's suggested dimensions were.For reference, I measured my Pro 2 (My daily rig) and from the center of the lever to lever, it measures 6". Very comfortable. This 6139 was standard at 4 1/4" center to center. Had to pull them apart to get my knees between them and when trying to play, both are attempting to engage. After backing the set screws out as far as possible, I can get it it 4 3/4" apart center to center. Still quite uncomfortable and somewhat awkward with the levers pointed that far outward..

I'm start to believe my only option may be to re drill new holes.Sad
_________________
Sho Bud Steel Guitars
Vintage Peavey Amplification
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail


All times are GMT - 8 Hours
Jump to:  

Our Online Catalog
Strings, CDs, instruction,
steel guitars & accessories

www.SteelGuitarShopper.com

Please review our Forum Rules and Policies

Steel Guitar Forum LLC
PO Box 237
Mount Horeb, WI 53572 USA


Click Here to Send a Donation

Email admin@steelguitarforum.com for technical support.


BIAB Styles
Ray Price Shuffles for
Band-in-a-Box

by Jim Baron
HTTP