I was fortunate to find a 1979 Pro I in great condition. The case however, was mildewy. Could not get the stink out so I tore it down to bare wood, bleached, shellaced and refelted the inside. Now I have a couple of questions.
1-If it sits level in the case, the knee lever keeps it from closing.
2- If I set it lower in the case it will be on the changer.
When I got it, the knee lever was disconnected so Im not entirely sure what's up as I have no reference.
Any ideas welcome. Thanks in advance.
Sho Bud Pro I Case question
Moderator: Shoshanah Marohn
- Brian Hollands
- Posts: 348
- Joined: 15 Jan 2018 12:10 pm
- Location: Franklin, North Carolina, USA
- Craig A Davidson
- Posts: 3848
- Joined: 16 Feb 2001 1:01 am
- Location: Wisconsin Rapids, Wisconsin USA
- Contact:
The bracket that is too tall is that way because it is not mounted down in the undercarriage. Instead it is way up near the top of the body. I would order a standard bracket from Michael Yahl and I bet it will work. Or else figure out how to get the one you have down in the undercarriage. Changing the bracket will be much easier.
- Brian Hollands
- Posts: 348
- Joined: 15 Jan 2018 12:10 pm
- Location: Franklin, North Carolina, USA
- Craig A Davidson
- Posts: 3848
- Joined: 16 Feb 2001 1:01 am
- Location: Wisconsin Rapids, Wisconsin USA
- Contact:
So I just wanted to say thanks for the helpful information and generosity. Eddie from OK sent me a knee lever bracket. I changed it out and now the case closes. I also ordered one from PSG parts so I have a spare just in case....
I'd also like to mention Atlas Case Company in Denver. They cut and fit some foam so my instrument is more secure in the case.
The entire project was quite time consuming.
Removed compartment pieces.
Felt and glue and wood were fused together after 40 years so coarse paper and orbital sander got it clean down to wood.
Cut new wood to replace the pieces rather than sand them.
Sand main case surfaces.
Bleach surfaces.
Shellac surfaces.
Contact cement felt to wood.
Reassemble compartments.
Used rock climbing webbing to replace the leather lid holder open pieces.
Trip to Denver for foam.
Here it is :
[/img]
I'd also like to mention Atlas Case Company in Denver. They cut and fit some foam so my instrument is more secure in the case.
The entire project was quite time consuming.
Removed compartment pieces.
Felt and glue and wood were fused together after 40 years so coarse paper and orbital sander got it clean down to wood.
Cut new wood to replace the pieces rather than sand them.
Sand main case surfaces.
Bleach surfaces.
Shellac surfaces.
Contact cement felt to wood.
Reassemble compartments.
Used rock climbing webbing to replace the leather lid holder open pieces.
Trip to Denver for foam.
Here it is :
[/img]