Sho Bud Tuning Issue
Moderator: Shoshanah Marohn
- Brian Waits
- Posts: 60
- Joined: 30 Apr 2016 9:46 pm
- Location: Georgia, USA
Sho Bud Tuning Issue
Hopefully someone here can lead me in the right direction. On my 1973 Pro II, after pressing the A B or C pedals, it will cause the E's to be slightly sharp until bumping the E lever (LNR) just a bit. I would understand if something were not returning all the way but A or B shouldn't affect the E's even slightly should it ? I am using a Peterson Strobo to tune with. The E's will be just slightly sharp. It seems to be pulling the LNR to much back to the left when releasing the pedals as I can rest my leg against it and it works fine. Am I asking to much of this guitar or do I have an actual issue ? What does seem to work is if I tune my open E with the AB pedals down. Does all this make any sense ?
Last edited by Brian Waits on 20 Oct 2017 6:26 pm, edited 3 times in total.
1976 Sho Bud Pro III SD10
Carvin 150 with Profex II
Carvin 100 tube amp with Transtube fex Stereo 2 15"JBL D130's
Session 400 with JBL D130
Carvin 150 with Profex II
Carvin 100 tube amp with Transtube fex Stereo 2 15"JBL D130's
Session 400 with JBL D130
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- Posts: 1408
- Joined: 1 Oct 2009 4:16 pm
- Location: Silver City, NM. USA
- Brian Waits
- Posts: 60
- Joined: 30 Apr 2016 9:46 pm
- Location: Georgia, USA
Tuning
Thank you Storm,
I haven't cleaned it as of yet. Just acquired the guitar a few days ago. if the springs were week, wouldn't that cause it not to return enough ? When using LNR the return is fine. It only gets sharp when when Pedals are used. Even A or B will cause it. It's like they are bumping the knee lever to far to the left when using them.
I haven't cleaned it as of yet. Just acquired the guitar a few days ago. if the springs were week, wouldn't that cause it not to return enough ? When using LNR the return is fine. It only gets sharp when when Pedals are used. Even A or B will cause it. It's like they are bumping the knee lever to far to the left when using them.
1976 Sho Bud Pro III SD10
Carvin 150 with Profex II
Carvin 100 tube amp with Transtube fex Stereo 2 15"JBL D130's
Session 400 with JBL D130
Carvin 150 with Profex II
Carvin 100 tube amp with Transtube fex Stereo 2 15"JBL D130's
Session 400 with JBL D130
- Brian Waits
- Posts: 60
- Joined: 30 Apr 2016 9:46 pm
- Location: Georgia, USA
Update
It seems to work fine if I tune My open E's with pedals AB down. Is that the correct way ? Don't have to do my stage one like that so all this is rather new to me.
1976 Sho Bud Pro III SD10
Carvin 150 with Profex II
Carvin 100 tube amp with Transtube fex Stereo 2 15"JBL D130's
Session 400 with JBL D130
Carvin 150 with Profex II
Carvin 100 tube amp with Transtube fex Stereo 2 15"JBL D130's
Session 400 with JBL D130
- Eric Dahlhoff
- Posts: 836
- Joined: 25 Jan 2010 1:04 pm
- Location: Point Arena, California
- Eric Dahlhoff
- Posts: 836
- Joined: 25 Jan 2010 1:04 pm
- Location: Point Arena, California
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- Joined: 26 Dec 2003 1:01 am
- Location: Candor, New York, USA
This is what I have seen several times on Buds... Some have an adjustable lower return, and it might need a turn or two.. either that or replace the spring.... bobStorm Rosson wrote:When did you last clean the changer? And maybe check the lower return springs to make sure they haven't got weak and are pulling away from the stop...just a couple thoughts
I'm over the hill and hittin'rocks on the way down!
no gear list for me.. you don't have the time......
no gear list for me.. you don't have the time......
- Igor Fiksman
- Posts: 173
- Joined: 16 May 2010 9:35 pm
- Location: Georgia, USA
If you have a 2 raise/1 lower or 1 raise/1 lower changer, those fingers have slots that glide over the spring plate. That's a common place for friction to keep the fingers from returning to their resting position. I've remedied that problem by tightening the return springs on strings that return flat. You can do that by cutting off several rings off the spring and then bending a new hook using needle nose pliers.
That's only one possible reason. I also had fingers that were worn down, a brass swivel on the bell crank being worn down to egg shape and causing erratic tuning and even pull rods rubbing on a pedal cross-shaft.
Bottom line, you must look at the mechanics in action to find the source of the problem. I like to set mine up on a table and working the pedals with my hands while carefully looking at the entire mechanical train until I can see what causes the problem
That's only one possible reason. I also had fingers that were worn down, a brass swivel on the bell crank being worn down to egg shape and causing erratic tuning and even pull rods rubbing on a pedal cross-shaft.
Bottom line, you must look at the mechanics in action to find the source of the problem. I like to set mine up on a table and working the pedals with my hands while carefully looking at the entire mechanical train until I can see what causes the problem
SHO-BUD Professional SD-10 Black, SHO-BUD Pro III Custom D-10 Red, Goodrich Matchbox 6A, Steeler's Choice seat, Quilter Steelaire Amps.