The Steel Guitar Forum Store 

Post new topic A Different kind of knee lever flag.
Reply to topic
Author Topic:  A Different kind of knee lever flag.
Dan Beller-McKenna


From:
Durham, New Hampshire, USA
Post  Posted 30 Jun 2016 6:35 am    
Reply with quote

I picked up a Sho Bud rack and barrel 6139 last year and have been tweaking it gradually for nine months now. After an initial tear down, clean, lube, and re-assembly, it has functioned and sounded beautifully, with one minor exception. The sixth string tuning has been a bit unstable. I ask a lot of the sixth string for a rack and barrel system: raise 1/2 step on pedal B; raise a whole-step on pedal 0; lower a whole-step on LKR; and use a tuneable split (raise) on LKR to get the G-natural with the B pedal. Recently I switched from an .022 plain to a .022 wound string, and all of my tuning issues vanished. But, of course, the throws are now much longer, especially lowering the whole-step on LKR. (There is no problem getting the changer to lower a whole step; in fact, I'm pretty sure I could get it to go another half-step.) Compounding that long throw, I just added a fourth pedal and repositioned the left knees; leaving LKR a bit farther from LKL than usual. I could move LKR back a bit to the left again, but the underside around there already has so many holes, I'd rather find a less invasive solution.

So here's an idea: has anyone ever designed and employed a knee lever flag that extends the accessibility of the lever from side to side, rather than from front to back? In other words, rather than extending the plane of the inside face of the knee lever from the center of the guitar towards the back apron, as a knee lever flag normally does, one that extends that plane towards the knee? Here is a crude illustration with the standard flag on the left, and the proposed flag on the right:




This sort of flag would serve the same purpose as moving the knee lever, but without requiring as much drilling to the guitar and repositioning of other components. My first thought was to find some sort of clamping system that could attach to the knee lever and then be secured with screws to a flag an inch or so to the left of the knee lever. Another option would be to drill through the knee lever and use threaded bolts as spacers, securing either end with a nut. The main issue I see with this is that the lever would probably not fold flat when packing the steel (and I hate the idea of drilling two holes through an old Sho Bud teardrop knee lever).

Thoughts? Should I just get the drill out and move the knee lever? Advanced yoga classes?
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website

Erv Niehaus


From:
Litchfield, MN, USA
Post  Posted 30 Jun 2016 7:44 am    
Reply with quote

What are two more holes in an old Sho~Bud rack and barrel? Rolling Eyes
No need to re-invent the wheel.
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail

Charley Bond


From:
Inola, OK, USA
Post  Posted 30 Jun 2016 7:50 am     removable knee lever
Reply with quote

I believe that you could make a removable knee lever that could move the functional sideways & be removable to pack up.
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail

Ian Worley


From:
Sacramento, CA
Post  Posted 30 Jun 2016 2:41 pm    
Reply with quote

I fabricated one for someone here on the forum with a couple of different length stand-offs like that. It was a clamp on design that didn't require any drilling. Inserting the standoff blocks just required longer machine screws. This one folded down fine, but if it didn't you would simply loosen a couple of screws and slide it off for travel.





In the end he opted not to use the standoffs though.

View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail

Jack Devereux

 

From:
Brooklyn NY
Post  Posted 30 Jun 2016 4:35 pm    
Reply with quote

I'd love something like that to make my verticals 'lower.'
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail

Dan Beller-McKenna


From:
Durham, New Hampshire, USA
Post  Posted 30 Jun 2016 5:33 pm    
Reply with quote

Ian that looks like just the ticket. In the last picture, though, it looks as though there are no stand-offs. Gives me some good ideas for starters. Thanks!
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website

Patrick Ickes

 

From:
Upper Lake, CA USA
Post  Posted 30 Jun 2016 5:47 pm    
Reply with quote

As Ian stated, the standoffs were not utilized. The stand offs are in the first picture.
Pick your length and bolt on.
Patrick
View user's profile Send private message

Dan Beller-McKenna


From:
Durham, New Hampshire, USA
Post  Posted 30 Jun 2016 6:43 pm    
Reply with quote

Whoops! Sorry, missed the text between the pictures.
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website

Fred Justice


From:
Mesa, Arizona
Post  Posted 1 Jul 2016 12:26 am    
Reply with quote

Dan, I'm looking at the last picture above and recognize my work.
That appears to be a Justice Pro Lite in the picture. Very Happy
Is that your guitar?
_________________
Email: azpedalman@gmail.com
Phone: 480-235-8797
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail

Dan Beller-McKenna


From:
Durham, New Hampshire, USA
Post  Posted 1 Jul 2016 2:27 am    
Reply with quote

Hi Fred. That was Ian's picture, and I'm guessing the guitar belonged to the person for whom he made the offsets and flag. Sure does look like nice work under there though!
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website

Charley Bond


From:
Inola, OK, USA
Post  Posted 1 Jul 2016 7:24 am     flag on a lever
Reply with quote

Bingo... nice addition.

My friend Jim Criner can make you some, while you watch.
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail

Hans Holzherr


From:
Münchenbuchsee, Switzerland
Post  Posted 1 Jul 2016 11:26 am    
Reply with quote

To prevent any bad surprises, please note that a stand-off will not change the lever pivot, so the movement of the stand-off will start diagonally downwards while your leg will move in a horizontal direction. This requires the stand-off to have a slick surface as it will rub against your pants or leg.

Last edited by Hans Holzherr on 1 Jul 2016 7:19 pm; edited 1 time in total
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail

Ron Pruter

 

From:
Arizona, USA
Post  Posted 1 Jul 2016 2:18 pm    
Reply with quote

Fred,
I like that little bend right before the puller. Must help to stop the tendency of a pull rod to bend to the side. Way to use the noggin. RP
_________________
Emmons SKH Le Grande, '73 Fender P/J bass, Tick tack bass, Regal high strung, USA Nashville 112.
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail


All times are GMT - 8 Hours
Jump to:  

Our Online Catalog
Strings, CDs, instruction,
steel guitars & accessories

www.SteelGuitarShopper.com

Please review our Forum Rules and Policies

Steel Guitar Forum LLC
PO Box 237
Mount Horeb, WI 53572 USA


Click Here to Send a Donation

Email admin@steelguitarforum.com for technical support.


BIAB Styles
Ray Price Shuffles for
Band-in-a-Box

by Jim Baron
HTTP