guitar that requires the lightest pedal pressure
Moderator: Shoshanah Marohn
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guitar that requires the lightest pedal pressure
I am currently playing a Simmons SD10 primarily because it requires extremely light pedal and knee pressure. I have a problem with neuropathy in my feet and so I don't have any choice but seek one with easy to play pedals. I like the Simmons a lot but I want to go to a D10 and need some advice about which guitar would best work for me. The Simmons Is a Pull/release mechanism. I have never played one but I like the look of the Mullen guitars and the Williams guitars but I don't know how much pressure is required to play them. The good news I can afford to buy a new one or a used one , whatever so long as it meets my criteria. I also have a D10 Williams, a 400 model in mint condition. It is close to being easy enough for me to play but not quite. I understand you can have helper springs put on the newer Williams models which might work but I have no way to test one. Any advice , suggestions will be appreciated. Standard Emmons setup on E9 and C6 neck. Thanks for your help.
Jim
Jim
Georgeboards D8 Twin Princess, Fender Custom T8, Fender Stringmaster T8, Pre-war Rickenbacher 7string bakelite, Clinesmith D8 pedal steel, Clinesmith T8 non pedal steel, Simmons Genesis PSG, Simmons D10 psg, Peavey NV 112, Fender 65Princeton Reverb, Roland Cube
- Ken Pippus
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- Dwight Lewis
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Light pedal action
FWIW;Thomas steel guitars are at the top of my list for light pedal action.
Thanks
Thanks
Dekley (PRS-10C), BMI S12
- Carl Kilmer
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I also suffer from neuropathy. Over the years I've owned
almost every steel made. I have 2 students that have new
steels, and I can't even play them. The easiest steels I've
ever played are Rittenberry's and Mullen's RP. Both are
so easy to play and the sound is super on either of them.
almost every steel made. I have 2 students that have new
steels, and I can't even play them. The easiest steels I've
ever played are Rittenberry's and Mullen's RP. Both are
so easy to play and the sound is super on either of them.
aka "Lucky Kay"--Custom built Rittenberry SD10 3X5, Walker S/S, NV-112, and Hilton Pedal
- Erv Niehaus
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Mullen g2
Carl Kilmer wrote:I also suffer from neuropathy. Over the years I've owned
almost every steel made. I have 2 students that have new
steels, and I can't even play them. The easiest steels I've
ever played are Rittenberry's and Mullen's RP. Both are
so easy to play and the sound is super on either of them.
Carl do you know if the Mullen G2 works as well light pedal wise as the RP? Mullen is what I am leaning towards. Just needed some conformation that they are easy to play. Thanks for the info.
Jim
Georgeboards D8 Twin Princess, Fender Custom T8, Fender Stringmaster T8, Pre-war Rickenbacher 7string bakelite, Clinesmith D8 pedal steel, Clinesmith T8 non pedal steel, Simmons Genesis PSG, Simmons D10 psg, Peavey NV 112, Fender 65Princeton Reverb, Roland Cube
- Jack Stoner
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I have Neuropathy (caused by Chemo). I don't have any problems with the pedals on my Franklin or my Wife's GFI Expo S-10. The Franklin is easier and the knees are much easier than GFI.
I've played a couple of Zum's and the ones I played were easier than my Franklin (maybe too easy).
I've played a couple of Zum's and the ones I played were easier than my Franklin (maybe too easy).
GFI Ultra Keyless S-10 with pad (Black of course) TB202 amp, Hilton VP, Steelers Choice sidekick seat, SIT Strings (all for sale as package)
Cakewalk by Bandlab and Studio One V4.6 pro DAWs, MOTU Ultralite MK5 recording interface unit
Cakewalk by Bandlab and Studio One V4.6 pro DAWs, MOTU Ultralite MK5 recording interface unit
- Henry Matthews
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Fessenden are easy playing guitars and are priced right. There are three on forum now for sale. Plus, I think their tone is awesome.
Henry Matthews
D-10 Magnum, 8 &5, dark rose color
D-10 1974 Emmons cut tail, fat back,rosewood, 8&5
Nashville 112 amp, Fishman Loudbox Performer amp, Hilton pedal, Goodrich pedal,BJS bar, Kyser picks, Live steel Strings. No effects, doodads or stomp boxes.
D-10 Magnum, 8 &5, dark rose color
D-10 1974 Emmons cut tail, fat back,rosewood, 8&5
Nashville 112 amp, Fishman Loudbox Performer amp, Hilton pedal, Goodrich pedal,BJS bar, Kyser picks, Live steel Strings. No effects, doodads or stomp boxes.
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Gfi
I had a GFI Ultra when my problem developed. I could no longer play it. My neuropathy is caused by a cyst growing on my spinal column that cannot be removed. The only guitar I have found I can play is the Simmons but I am going to check into the Mullen and Fessenden. Thanks for all your comments.Jack Stoner wrote:I have Neuropathy (caused by Chemo). I don't have any problems with the pedals on my Franklin or my Wife's GFI Expo S-10. The Franklin is easier and the knees are much easier than GFI.
I've played a couple of Zum's and the ones I played were easier than my Franklin (maybe too easy).
Jim
Georgeboards D8 Twin Princess, Fender Custom T8, Fender Stringmaster T8, Pre-war Rickenbacher 7string bakelite, Clinesmith D8 pedal steel, Clinesmith T8 non pedal steel, Simmons Genesis PSG, Simmons D10 psg, Peavey NV 112, Fender 65Princeton Reverb, Roland Cube
- Carl Kilmer
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You might consider having someone make you some pedal extenders. I had a post sometime back, a bout pedal extenders i fashioned for my Emmons, Legrand. Some of the fellows on the form acted like I was nuts. The ones I made slip over each pedal, and they look like factory made. You won't believe how much easier the pedal action is, one half inch longer makes a world of difference.
It would be nice if you could order replacement pedals a little longer than what is standard on your particular guitars. I personally know it works.
Would be a lot cheaper than a new guitar.
Let's see if the know it all naysayers have any comments. Willie SIMS.
It would be nice if you could order replacement pedals a little longer than what is standard on your particular guitars. I personally know it works.
Would be a lot cheaper than a new guitar.
Let's see if the know it all naysayers have any comments. Willie SIMS.
- Tony Glassman
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Or drill & tap pedal lug holes closer to the axles on existing pedals. Any machinist could do this, if one isn't mechanically inclined.Willie Sims wrote:You might consider having someone make you some pedal extenders. I had a post sometime back, a bout pedal extenders i fashioned for my Emmons, Legrand. Some of the fellows on the form acted like I was nuts. The ones I made slip over each pedal, and they look like factory made. You won't believe how much easier the pedal action is, one half inch longer makes a world of difference.
It would be nice if you could order replacement pedals a little longer than what is standard on your particular guitars. I personally know it works.
Would be a lot cheaper than a new guitar.
Let's see if the know it all naysayers have any comments. Willie SIMS.
- Roy Carroll
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Even though I do not own one, THE very lightest and positive pedal action I have ever experienced is the JUSTICE guitar. Fred makes'em easy to play and sound good too.Very light pressure and can be played bare footed with no problem.
Shameless plug for a great builder and great guy to do business with.
Shameless plug for a great builder and great guy to do business with.
Just north of the Weird place, south of Georgetown
- chris ivey
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Tony'you are correct, a bout drilling a hole to move the connection point on the pedal, some pedals, are equipped with extra connection points, like some of the shobuds and MSAs, but on my Emmons pedals. There is no way to move the connection pin. Moving the connection pin closer to the shaft will make it easier, but will also increase the pedal travel. Either way, will work fine if you can move move the connection point.
The fellow that wants easier pedal action, might consider lowering his tuneing down two frets to d9th [would decrease the tension considerable.
The fellow that wants easier pedal action, might consider lowering his tuneing down two frets to d9th [would decrease the tension considerable.
- chris ivey
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- Tony Glassman
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Chris - that would make the effort required to depress the pedal shorter but stiffer.chris ivey wrote:i'd move it further from the shaft.Willie Sims wrote: Moving the connection pin closer to the shaft will make it easier, but will also increase the pedal travel.
Willie- Oddly enough, my 74 P/P has an unused " connector" holes on each pedal that are located closer to the pedal rack axle. They appear OEM as they have paint within. None of the other Emmons' I've owned have them. Go figure!
- chris ivey
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- Tony Glassman
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Pedal stiffness
I have a Williams D10 Crossover model. I sent the pedal rack to Bill Rudolph and Bill moved the point where the pedal rod connects to the side of the pedal in closer to the pedal rack. I also completely oiled the mechanism and changed the string gauge on a couple of strings. All of this helped but still not enough to allow me to play it comfortably for any amount of time. I hate that because it is a beautiful, near mint , Red guitar with great tone. Unfortunately I can't play it so I will sell it when I figure out what guitar I need to buy. Someone mentioned having Bob Simmons build me a D10 and that is not a bad idea. I am going to go see him (he lives about 45 minutes away) and see what that would cost and compare that to the cost of a true professionsl model. I am sure there is an easy playing D10 out there and I am in no hurry so I will keep working on it. Thanks again for all the good ideas.
Georgeboards D8 Twin Princess, Fender Custom T8, Fender Stringmaster T8, Pre-war Rickenbacher 7string bakelite, Clinesmith D8 pedal steel, Clinesmith T8 non pedal steel, Simmons Genesis PSG, Simmons D10 psg, Peavey NV 112, Fender 65Princeton Reverb, Roland Cube
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