Advice on cleaning up steel

Todd Pertll · Post by **Todd Pertll** » 27 Jun 2015 6:59 pm

Got this out of storage yesterday. How would you go about cleaning it up?

Thanks

Jeff Au Hoy · Post by **Jeff Au Hoy** » 27 Jun 2015 11:35 pm

I've gotten excellent results using Basch Nevr-Dull wadding polish on crusty rusty parts like that.

John Booth · Post by **John Booth** » 28 Jun 2015 7:53 am

Why clean it? It's beautifully "patina'd"

John Billings · Post by **John Billings** » 28 Jun 2015 2:45 pm

California Custom Deoxidizer and Purple Polish.
http://www.californiacustom.com/aluminu ... dizer.html
http://www.californiacustom.com/purple_ ... olish.html
Meguiar's Pro Swirl Remover 2.0 for the body
http://www.meguiars.com.au/mirror-glaze ... mover-2-0/

John Billings · Post by **John Billings** » 28 Jun 2015 3:01 pm

Of course, it's so pitted and rusted, it's never going to look very good. I'd get it re-plated. The CC products work on all metals. And they don't take long, or require any work.

5 minutes later. Most of the 5 minutes was letting the polish dry, with maybe 30 seconds of hand buffing with an old sock.

Don't waste your time and elbow grease with old fashioned products!

Todd Pertll · Post by **Todd Pertll** » 28 Jun 2015 6:26 pm

Wow. Thanks. Looks amazing

Brian Evans · Post by **Brian Evans** » 29 Jun 2015 4:17 am

The top post shows severely failed chrome or nickel plating on steel, with the rust blooming through. Anywhere there is rust there is a failure of the plating. What I would do is either find a metal restoration and plating shop and have them deal with it, if I wanted new looking parts, or wire-wheel it intensely to remove the loose rust, treat with a phosphoric acid wash (lots around, including Coke, various de-rusters, rust killers and probably the aluminum de-oxidizer mentioned above). Then polish with your choice of metal polish, de-wax to get it really really clean and dry, then coat with a clear finish to seal the surface from moisture and air. Should keep it clean for a long time.

A pro re-plating shop will do all of that except the clear coat, then plate with a layer of copper that can be polished totally smooth, plate with a layer of nickel and then plate with a layer of chrome, and polish again. Completely restores the original finish.

Brian

John Booth · Post by **John Booth** » 29 Jun 2015 5:30 am

John Billings wrote:maybe 30 seconds of hand buffing with an old sock.

Must be one hell of a sock Brother

Jim Hoock · Post by **Jim Hoock** » 2 Jul 2015 3:46 am

[Must be one hell of a sock Brother ]

dammit...just spit my coffee up over that one![/quote]

Barbara Berg · Post by **Barbara Berg** » 2 Jul 2015 6:49 am

I have to admit, this forum is better than reading the comics, and what's even more interesting I think I've learned a lot of information. Think I'll write a book on " How to restore a Steel Guitar, 5 unconventional methods!"

Aaron Jennings · Post by **Aaron Jennings** » 2 Jul 2015 7:20 am

A method I've used for a gentle and cheap clean-up:

Cut some aluminum foil into little strips. Get it wet, and gently rub the affected areas. You don't need very much water (or elbow grease) at all.

I'd be careful around the pickup and try to keep from getting water into any areas where you can't easily dry it up.

I'd defer to JB and the other suggestions here if you want it to really shine, but I've had surprisingly good results! A good way to see 'How bad is it really?'

Great thread.

The Steel Guitar Forum

Advice on cleaning up steel

Advice on cleaning up steel

Restore