1958 T8 Restoration
Moderator: Brad Bechtel
- Russ Cudney
- Posts: 138
- Joined: 9 May 2007 4:31 pm
- Location: Sonoma, California, USA
1958 T8 Restoration
I found this carcass on eBay and I decided to restore it as a "player". I had plenty of extra parts, but wasn't too concerned with how year correct the parts were. I have two pickup/bridge plates that have serial numbers. I just blanked out the extra holes with stainless carriage bolts. I was going to re-spray, but I decided I liked the "used" finish.
Here's how I got it off eBay:
First off it looked like whoever parted this out was trying to pry off the fretboards. After bending too much I guess they decided to leave them alone:
I popped out the brads and straightened/glued back to normal.
Here's how I got it off eBay:
First off it looked like whoever parted this out was trying to pry off the fretboards. After bending too much I guess they decided to leave them alone:
I popped out the brads and straightened/glued back to normal.
1958 D8 Stringmaster, 1958 T8 Stringmaster, 1955 Q8 Stringmaster (in basket), 1949 Gibson BR9, 1953 Silvertone, 1957 Harmony H4 (yeah the cool black pearloid one), 1947 National Princess, 1969 Shobud S10 3X1
- Russ Cudney
- Posts: 138
- Joined: 9 May 2007 4:31 pm
- Location: Sonoma, California, USA
Next, I needed six pickups, and two covers.
Bobbin fabrication:
Setting up the winder for the Stringmaster pickups:
8353 winds should do the trick...
Bobbin fabrication:
Setting up the winder for the Stringmaster pickups:
8353 winds should do the trick...
1958 D8 Stringmaster, 1958 T8 Stringmaster, 1955 Q8 Stringmaster (in basket), 1949 Gibson BR9, 1953 Silvertone, 1957 Harmony H4 (yeah the cool black pearloid one), 1947 National Princess, 1969 Shobud S10 3X1
- Russ Cudney
- Posts: 138
- Joined: 9 May 2007 4:31 pm
- Location: Sonoma, California, USA
I have 4 pickup covers, but needed two more.
With some Strat covers, ABS cement and ABS pickguard sheets, I was able to fabricate two:
With some Strat covers, ABS cement and ABS pickguard sheets, I was able to fabricate two:
1958 D8 Stringmaster, 1958 T8 Stringmaster, 1955 Q8 Stringmaster (in basket), 1949 Gibson BR9, 1953 Silvertone, 1957 Harmony H4 (yeah the cool black pearloid one), 1947 National Princess, 1969 Shobud S10 3X1
- Russ Cudney
- Posts: 138
- Joined: 9 May 2007 4:31 pm
- Location: Sonoma, California, USA
While I still had everything apart I test cut a couple of pickup/bridge plates with the laser cutter.
I will cut a bunch with the water-jet when I restore my Quad.
I will cut a bunch with the water-jet when I restore my Quad.
1958 D8 Stringmaster, 1958 T8 Stringmaster, 1955 Q8 Stringmaster (in basket), 1949 Gibson BR9, 1953 Silvertone, 1957 Harmony H4 (yeah the cool black pearloid one), 1947 National Princess, 1969 Shobud S10 3X1
- Russ Cudney
- Posts: 138
- Joined: 9 May 2007 4:31 pm
- Location: Sonoma, California, USA
Setup:
... and finished:
It sounds great. I'll post some sound bites when I get it more broke in.
... and finished:
It sounds great. I'll post some sound bites when I get it more broke in.
1958 D8 Stringmaster, 1958 T8 Stringmaster, 1955 Q8 Stringmaster (in basket), 1949 Gibson BR9, 1953 Silvertone, 1957 Harmony H4 (yeah the cool black pearloid one), 1947 National Princess, 1969 Shobud S10 3X1
- Russ Cudney
- Posts: 138
- Joined: 9 May 2007 4:31 pm
- Location: Sonoma, California, USA
Thanks Jeff
Both switches left front neck, both switches right far neck. One left one right middle neck.
Tunings from front out are E7, C6, and A6. Almost never use the A6 so I may go to E13.
Both switches left front neck, both switches right far neck. One left one right middle neck.
Tunings from front out are E7, C6, and A6. Almost never use the A6 so I may go to E13.
1958 D8 Stringmaster, 1958 T8 Stringmaster, 1955 Q8 Stringmaster (in basket), 1949 Gibson BR9, 1953 Silvertone, 1957 Harmony H4 (yeah the cool black pearloid one), 1947 National Princess, 1969 Shobud S10 3X1
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- Location: Colorado, USA
- Russ Cudney
- Posts: 138
- Joined: 9 May 2007 4:31 pm
- Location: Sonoma, California, USA
Hi Paul,
Yes, I wired in the blend which I really like. I took liberties on the magnets when I made the pickups. Alnico 2 at the board, and Alnico 5 at the bridge. Wiring is stock Fender except for the neck switching.
Yes, I wired in the blend which I really like. I took liberties on the magnets when I made the pickups. Alnico 2 at the board, and Alnico 5 at the bridge. Wiring is stock Fender except for the neck switching.
1958 D8 Stringmaster, 1958 T8 Stringmaster, 1955 Q8 Stringmaster (in basket), 1949 Gibson BR9, 1953 Silvertone, 1957 Harmony H4 (yeah the cool black pearloid one), 1947 National Princess, 1969 Shobud S10 3X1
- Mark Roeder
- Posts: 895
- Joined: 25 Sep 2007 11:22 am
- Location: Milwaukee, Wisconsin, USA
Wow, you are one talented guy. Your attention to detail is impressive.
www.deluxe34.com lap steel stands, Clinesmith, Gibson Console Grande, Northwesterns, The Best Westerns
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- Roger Guyett
- Posts: 234
- Joined: 3 Jan 2009 2:12 pm
- Location: San Francisco, Ca.
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- Posts: 430
- Joined: 24 Mar 1999 1:01 am
- Location: Indianola, IA USA
- Contact:
I know that this is kind of resurrecting an old post, but that restoration looks great! I found this post while searching for info for my own project. I just acquired a mid-fifties Stringmaster that originally had the push-button switiches. Long ago those switches were removed and the guitar was wired so that all three necks are on all the time. I am going to rewire it with toggle switches. What kind of switches did you use in this restoration? Will they go right in the holes, or did you have to drill it out? Also, how do they function? In other words, how did you wire them?
I would really appreciate your advice. Thanks!
I would really appreciate your advice. Thanks!
- Russ Cudney
- Posts: 138
- Joined: 9 May 2007 4:31 pm
- Location: Sonoma, California, USA
Hi, sorry late response, but I just got back to Cali from Nashville. I just used LP toggles. I had to ream the holes.Dave Alfstad wrote:I know that this is kind of resurrecting an old post, but that restoration looks great! I found this post while searching for info for my own project. I just acquired a mid-fifties Stringmaster that originally had the push-button switiches. Long ago those switches were removed and the guitar was wired so that all three necks are on all the time. I am going to rewire it with toggle switches. What kind of switches did you use in this restoration? Will they go right in the holes, or did you have to drill it out? Also, how do they function? In other words, how did you wire them?
I would really appreciate your advice. Thanks!
1958 D8 Stringmaster, 1958 T8 Stringmaster, 1955 Q8 Stringmaster (in basket), 1949 Gibson BR9, 1953 Silvertone, 1957 Harmony H4 (yeah the cool black pearloid one), 1947 National Princess, 1969 Shobud S10 3X1
How do they work? LP toggles are 3 way. I used straight on/off switches on mine - one for each neck.Russ Cudney wrote:Hi, sorry late response, but I just got back to Cali from Nashville. I just used LP toggles. I had to ream the holes.
I'm working with a friend on a doubleneck restore and were wondering about using a LP toggle instead of a blade switch as we actually have a plate from a triple, although will probably go for two separate on/off switches as that worked great on my quad.
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- Posts: 430
- Joined: 24 Mar 1999 1:01 am
- Location: Indianola, IA USA
- Contact:
Thanks for the replies!
I posted this question in another thread that I started because I didn't know if folks would read to the end of an older thread to see my questions. Would you please read my other post about how to wire the switches to get the results I want?
http://bb.steelguitarforum.com/viewtopi ... 89#2649389[/url]
I posted this question in another thread that I started because I didn't know if folks would read to the end of an older thread to see my questions. Would you please read my other post about how to wire the switches to get the results I want?
http://bb.steelguitarforum.com/viewtopi ... 89#2649389[/url]