BRITTLE pull rods..

Richard Sinkler · Post by **Richard Sinkler** » 28 Jul 2014 7:56 pm

I'm surprised to hear they went to using Loctite. The only Loctite on my 1999 guitar is what I used on the stop screw when I installed my zero pedal. Even though I used blue Loctite, I am really sorry I did. There is no way to get enough torque on that little set screw to break the bond. I just stripped mine.

Tom Gorr · Post by **Tom Gorr** » 28 Jul 2014 8:27 pm

I'm pretty sure there's a softening temperature for blue loctite.

Richard Sinkler · Post by **Richard Sinkler** » 28 Jul 2014 8:50 pm

I'm not about to take a torch to my guitar. Maybe a hair dryer might do it, but the socket is stripped. Fortunately, that zero pedal has no real value to me. I originally put it on to put thr Franklin pedal on. I never got into the Franklin pedal and just used it for experimental changes. I don't really want to drill it out either. Maybe if I find something valuable to put on it, I might change my mind.

James Jacoby · Post by **James Jacoby** » 28 Jul 2014 10:02 pm

Richard Sinkler wrote:
Will Cowell wrote:Carters sound good, but I'm hearing too many stories like this about them. I don't think I will ever buy one.
All guitars have some sort of little problem that crops up. .

Right on, Richard! I think that goes for ALL machinery. I don't think there is any "perfect" machine. I have three Carter steels. Two 5x5, S-10s, and one 8x5 U-12. I wouldn't part with any of them. Yes, I've had a few troubles with them, but they're light, sound good, and are very adjustable. And, oh yes, were reasonably priced. -Jake-

Bob Carlucci · Post by **Bob Carlucci** » 29 Jul 2014 8:38 am

Tom Gorr wrote:I'm pretty sure there's a softening temperature for blue loctite.

Agreed, but the point s moot after the tiny holes are stripped.. As it stands, I have 3 pedal stop allen screws stuck in with loctite and have stripped hex heads. Loctite was a VERY bad idea, from a couple of VERY good steel builders... Silicone sealer on the threads of the pedal stop screws would have kept them from ever moving, until it was time for the screws to be removed... bob

richard burton · Post by **richard burton** » 29 Jul 2014 12:37 pm

If a soldering iron could get hot enough to soften the loctite, the allen screws might come out by using a left-handed drill bit, on a slow speed (with the drill in reverse, of course)

Bob Carlucci · Post by **Bob Carlucci** » 29 Jul 2014 5:59 pm

richard burton wrote:If a soldering iron could get hot enough to soften the loctite, the allen screws might come out by using a left-handed drill bit, on a slow speed (with the drill in reverse, of course)

I am going to try a high power soldering gun and see what happens, UNLESS the pedals stop position "just happen" to be in the right place during final set up.. I have my doubts.. I have some very good LH drills and that might be what I do... I have EZ outs, but nothing that small... bob

John Polstra · Post by **John Polstra** » 29 Jul 2014 7:37 pm

I doubt a soldering gun would get it hot enough. But a mini butane torch (the kind that's a little bit larger than a cigarette lighter) would probably do it. That's what I use these days when I have to solder a wire to the casing of a pot in electronic gear. It works great for that, and it's easy to control.

John

Bob Carlucci · Post by **Bob Carlucci** » 30 Jul 2014 4:56 am

John Polstra wrote:I doubt a soldering gun would get it hot enough. But a mini butane torch (the kind that's a little bit larger than a cigarette lighter) would probably do it. That's what I use these days when I have to solder a wire to the casing of a pot in electronic gear. It works great for that, and it's easy to control.

John

I was originally thinking of using a mini butane torch as well.. However, right against the aluminum frame that would be heated along with the stuck bolts, is some very nice blue/black swirl Formica, and thats the front apron of the guitar.. I would be absolutely sick if I ruined the Formica by heating the frame with a torch.. I think I'll work around this using something a bit less risky... bob

Bobby D. Jones · Post by **Bobby D. Jones** » 30 Jul 2014 10:23 pm

Loc-Tite is a very loose word. There is dozens of Loc-Tite with different numbers and specifications. Some have to be heated to get them to release. Any Loc-Tite I came upon on a firearm as an police armor. HEAT FIRST-THEN ALLEN WRENCH OR TORC WRENCH I used a propane torch with a copper soldering tip attached to the burner. This setup concentrated the heat on the screw. A regular eletric soldering gun should loosen the Loc-Tite. About 400 degrees will loosen most Loc-Tites hold on screws. Go slow and safe.

Paul Redmond · Post by **Paul Redmond** » 4 Aug 2014 10:30 pm

If you're going to make new stainless rods, go to a welding supply shop and buy a tube of TIG welding rod....308L stainless. It takes tight bends well, polishes and/or satin-finishes well, and threads easily....plus it doesn't rust like mild steel does.
PRR

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BRITTLE pull rods..

Brittle Rods