Question about Sho-Bud Pro I's/S-10's

David Scheidler · From: Arizona, USA

I'm getting back into playing PSG and decided I must have a Bud this time and recently narrowed it down to a Pro I. My last venture was with a 3/4 black Emmons 3+1, which was a nice little guitar but a little too sterile for my taste. The early blonde Pro I's are awesome (love the vintage look), but the round (early?) and square (later?) front, colored models really make me drool. Question - which is better mechanically and what's a fair price to pay for either one? Is there a preferred year when the Pro I was considered to be at its best?

Seems to be some confusion about the SB S-10's in general. Also pondering the possibility of an LDG if I can find one that isn't that ghastly green color. Any thoughts?

mike nolan · From: Forest Hills, NY USA

Check this for some history.....

http://www.planet.eon.net/~gsimmons/shobud/models.html

I have owned Sho~Buds from fingertips to early 80's Pro series... and have never been seriously disappointed with any of them. I did like some better than others though, so for now the keepers are a 73 LDG and a 75 6139. I will probably keep these until I drop.

Sometimes you get a bad one.... sometimes a middle of the road one.... and sometimes they are great. It takes a while to know the difference.

History and condition are important, but there are sources for parts and rebuilds. Most of them can be brought back to life and original operating spec. There are lots of tricks, that have been shared by Ricky Davis and James Morehead here on the forum. Michael Yahl has been a good source of parts, but is in the middle of a relocaation, so not building at this time.

Alan Berdoulay · Posted 27 Nov 2013 5:11 am

6139 infers rack and barrel.

'73 - '74 round front with two hole pullers is quite nice.

Abe Levy · From: California, USA

My 6139 is square front, two hole pullers, wide pedals and gumby head - no racks. 1974-75ish. Hard and fast rules seem hard to come by when it come to sho bud model specs... Especially in the mid seventies.
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Mostly Pre-1970 guitars.

Dave Grafe · From: Hudson River Valley NY

The later models (late '70's into the '80's) have the Super Pro mechanism, and they set up the best by far, but the tendency of some pot-metal parts to break has kept some folks away from them. That would still be my choice were I in your shoes...

David Scheidler · From: Arizona, USA

Mike:

I stumbled on the unofficial Sho-Bud website awhile ago and have referred to it many times in my effort to sort model differences, etcetera. I think I'm leaning towards the mid-70's S-10's. Also considering contacting Ricky and James for a possible restoration project. I'd do most of the work, but contact them for parts and tech info. It would be fun and that way I'd learn my instrument inside and out. Will also post a WTB for a potential prospect.

David

Tom Wolverton · From: Carpinteria, CA

Jim Palenscar usually has a nice selection of old ShoBuds too. You might contact him. I think he recently got a really nice Pro-II in there.
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David Scheidler · From: Arizona, USA

Alan:

Yes, I seem to gather from the many posts on different mechanisms that the double-hole puller is widely considered a better system than the rack-and-barrel setup. To each his own. Either way, I'd prefer to go with a setup that is most accurate with less slop and mechanical noise under the hood. It would be fun to do a custom mod on a restoration project that combines the best of all worlds. Ricky also seems to have some undisclosed tricks up his sleeve for hot-rodding the SB's. This will be an interesting journey indeed.

David

Tom Wolverton · From: Carpinteria, CA

When shopping for old roundfront ShoBuds, I'd like to recommend that you always check out the top to apron glue joints. James Morehead turned me on to this. Here's the thread:

http://bb.steelguitarforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=177277&highlight=apron+dowel
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Jon Light (deceased) · From: Saugerties, NY

David--the SuperPro undercarriage is the most refined of the Bud models, regarding slop & noise. The multi-hole bellcranks enable a finer tuning of the pull train enabling better, tighter adjustments. The older mechanisms are acceptable to people who dig the mojo. I have a two-hole swivel puller model and it will never be as tight a machine as my Fessenden but it most definitely is what it is.
The transitional models with Superpro mechanisms and Pro 1 cosmetics are a great option. But no mistake--the pot metal parts in the Superpro are real. Fortunately there are aftermarket replacements to address the issue.

Bill Moore · From: Manchester, Michigan

There are two steel guitar builders in Arizona, Justice and Desert Rose. Before you buy a Sho-Bud "project", it might be a good idea to arrange to visit both of them and see what they have to offer. I like my "plain jane" Justice S-10 better that any of the three Sho-Bud S-10s I've had. Great playing, excellent value guitar. I also have a Desert Rose S-10, with a beautiful lacquer finish, as nice as any Sho-Bud. It's a modern, quality guitar. Just my opinion, but I'd chose either of these before I'd chose a Sho-Bud.

David Scheidler · From: Arizona, USA

Abe:

The most frustrating part of this whole decision process is that very fact - no consistency in models, styles, etcetera from one year to the next. Some have considered that to be a part of the Sho-Bud mystique. I guess if you study them long enough , as some here have, it starts to make sense and fit together in a strange way that can only be appreciated by lovers of vintage instruments.

David

Bob Carlucci · From: Candor, New York, USA

David Scheidler · From: Arizona, USA

Thanks to everyone for all the informative feedback. This has been a crash course in Sho-Bud History 101! The personal preference viewpoints are also helpful. Funny, in the beginning my first consideration was cabinet style but that's taken a back seat to the much more important issue of which mechanical setup to use.

I talked to a Sho-Bud rebuilder today who suggested using an older, vintage style cabinet and using all new, upgraded "intestines" (to use his words). It would be a true custom project and I'd end up with a state-of-the-art instrument that I could spend many years playing instead of constantly tweaking and patching up the older, half-worn out guts. All this for the price of a late model Pro I.

Question - what would be the best pickup to put in this little beast? And final question - what would be a suitable model name...?

Lane Gray · From: Topeka, KS

I'd use a rewound Bud pickup with a tap.
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2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects

Tom Wolverton · From: Carpinteria, CA

Maybe a Wallace True Tone
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To write with a broken pencil is pointless.

Bob Carlucci · From: Candor, New York, USA

Lane Gray · From: Topeka, KS

And Jerry Wallace has very reasonable rates for rewinds.
My fiancée loves BOTH the tones on my rewound 12.
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2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects

Tom Wolverton · From: Carpinteria, CA

Did Jerry Wallace retire? Seems like his web page is down.
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To write with a broken pencil is pointless.

Jon Light (deceased) · From: Saugerties, NY

http://www.jerrywallacemusic.com/pickup.htm

Jon Light (deceased) · From: Saugerties, NY

The single coils are part of the sound signature of classic Sho-Bud recordings although you'd have to be real good to hear a difference when Lloyd Green is using humbuckers (I don't volunteer for the blindfold test).
Your bottom line may be how you feel about noise. Humbuckers in a Bud work well too.

Lane Gray · From: Topeka, KS

He doesn't seem to bother much with his web page. Give him a call, his number's there. He's very much in business, he just redid the one from my 12 string Bud. Denise approves of his work.
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2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects

Larry Bressington · From: Nebraska

I actually really enjoy the early 80 s models... Just change the lever brackets , they sound great and are affordable, are they the best? I think so playability wise, it's my number 1 choice but we all got our own mojo!
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A.K.A Chappy.

David Scheidler · From: Arizona, USA

Thanks guys!

I've read details on several forum posts regarding the differences of the Lawrence PUP's, True Tone's, and the rewound Sho-Bud option with the coil tap. The consensus seems to be largely a matter of personal preference. It's a tough choice, although I may go with the latter setup since I'm trying to keep it as original as possible - with the exception of the all-new hardware in the undercarriage.

My goal is to combine classic vintage tone and vintage look with state-of-the-art mechanics... with a twist. Meaning I'll also probably do a two-tone cabinet with an altered model name on the right side of the front apron. Something like "The Pro I Special" or "Super Pro Custom". Anyway, when it's all said and done I expect it to shine like a diamond and sing like a bird - with attitude!

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