What is meant by 2 up 1 down changers?
Moderator: Shoshanah Marohn
-
- Posts: 46
- Joined: 6 May 2013 9:46 am
- Location: New Jersey, USA
What is meant by 2 up 1 down changers?
I am buying a new guitar, if it has this system, is it obsolete?
thanx for lettin me in
- John Scanlon
- Posts: 688
- Joined: 2 Dec 2009 8:38 am
- Location: Jackson, Mississippi, USA
- Contact:
Sounds like a standard student model to me.
Click here for the Index to Mickey Adams's YouTube video lessons
Insert impressive gear list here.
Insert impressive gear list here.
-
- Posts: 46
- Joined: 6 May 2013 9:46 am
- Location: New Jersey, USA
got the answer.
Hey fellas, thanks for the help. Just talked to Fred, and the two up and one down is sufficient for a beginner. My S10-3x5 is a pro model (entry level)but at only 1769.00 it is a bargin. Anyway, Bob please close.
Ernie
Ernie
thanx for lettin me in
- John Scanlon
- Posts: 688
- Joined: 2 Dec 2009 8:38 am
- Location: Jackson, Mississippi, USA
- Contact:
Maybe I should have said economy model.
Click here for the Index to Mickey Adams's YouTube video lessons
Insert impressive gear list here.
Insert impressive gear list here.
- Erv Niehaus
- Posts: 26797
- Joined: 10 Aug 2001 12:01 am
- Location: Litchfield, MN, USA
-
- Posts: 1408
- Joined: 1 Oct 2009 4:16 pm
- Location: Silver City, NM. USA
- Erv Niehaus
- Posts: 26797
- Joined: 10 Aug 2001 12:01 am
- Location: Litchfield, MN, USA
-
- Posts: 46
- Joined: 6 May 2013 9:46 am
- Location: New Jersey, USA
Nice recovery
Hey John. no doubt the S103x5 is meant for light duty, not sufficient for Buddy Cage, but the advice I got before I ordered my steel, was get the best quality. All the starters and student models may be inexpensive, but disappoint.
a real pro model costs close to 5000.00, and great for a touring player, but for me, 2000.00 was all I wanted to invest. I could have spent the 5 grand, but it would look out of place with me behind it. great talkin to ya, thanks for the reply, and wish me luck.
Ernie
a real pro model costs close to 5000.00, and great for a touring player, but for me, 2000.00 was all I wanted to invest. I could have spent the 5 grand, but it would look out of place with me behind it. great talkin to ya, thanks for the reply, and wish me luck.
Ernie
thanx for lettin me in
- Calvin Walley
- Posts: 2557
- Joined: 11 Sep 2003 12:01 am
- Location: colorado city colorado, USA
Ernie
NOT all student models will disappoint !!!!
there are a few really good ones for under $1500.00 NEW
NOT all student models will disappoint !!!!
there are a few really good ones for under $1500.00 NEW
proud parent of a sailor
Mullen SD-10 /nashville 400
gotta love a Mullen!!!
Guitars that i have owned in order are :
Mullen SD-10,Simmons SD-10,Mullen SD-10,Zum stage one,Carter starter,
Sho-Bud Mavrick
Mullen SD-10 /nashville 400
gotta love a Mullen!!!
Guitars that i have owned in order are :
Mullen SD-10,Simmons SD-10,Mullen SD-10,Zum stage one,Carter starter,
Sho-Bud Mavrick
- Bill Moore
- Posts: 2099
- Joined: 5 Jun 2000 12:01 am
- Location: Manchester, Michigan
You will like the Justice S-10. I've had mine for a while now, and have no regrets, it's a very good steel guitar. I would call it light weight, but not light duty. It's very solid and stable while being light in weight. Mine is 3x4. The 2 raise, 1 lower arrangement works fine. You will find that it plays very smoothly, with very little effort. And it sounds very good too. You have all the normal changes found on other guitars that have the same number of pedals and levers.
-
- Posts: 1408
- Joined: 1 Oct 2009 4:16 pm
- Location: Silver City, NM. USA
Vaguely Erv, I think it was named "Topmillers" studio owned by Vic Topmiller...man that was before my memory even worked at all hehehe. Stormy !..... btw a person can't go wrong with one of Fred's guitars they are as good as it getsErv Niehaus wrote:My first Sho~Bud was a fingertip and I wonder if that wasn't 2 up and 1 down.
PS: Do you remember an old photographic shop in Silver City? I have a baby picture that was taken there.
-
- Posts: 46
- Joined: 6 May 2013 9:46 am
- Location: New Jersey, USA
oops!
I'm sure your right Calvin, anyway, what do I know. did check out a lot of student models, but got a lot of feedback from exp players that advised getting pro model.
Thanks Bill for your comments, looking forward to playing my S10. Again not sure just where it fits in ,in the world of steel. No one has said that I made a mistake ordering a steel from Fred. I am probably overthinkin it. Wow, I sure do love talkin to all you steelers. I hope I can get the hang of it.
Ernie
Thanks Bill for your comments, looking forward to playing my S10. Again not sure just where it fits in ,in the world of steel. No one has said that I made a mistake ordering a steel from Fred. I am probably overthinkin it. Wow, I sure do love talkin to all you steelers. I hope I can get the hang of it.
Ernie
thanx for lettin me in
- Erv Niehaus
- Posts: 26797
- Joined: 10 Aug 2001 12:01 am
- Location: Litchfield, MN, USA
- John Scanlon
- Posts: 688
- Joined: 2 Dec 2009 8:38 am
- Location: Jackson, Mississippi, USA
- Contact:
Ernie - we're in agreement. I think you got good advice, and from my point of view, there's nothing wrong with student models or economy models. I am currently in between my first steel, a student model (with 2 up and 1 down) that I even gigged with, and my second one on its way, an S-10 3x5 economy model, and I can assure you I won't be spending $5 grand on a toy anytime soon. In fact, the total amount I will have spent on both guitars together is much less than even half of that. I was simply saying that 2 up and 1 down is something you'd see on a student guitar or an economy one, and doesn't make your steel obsolete at all. The opposite, actually, in my view as it's kind of standard ... for certain economy and student models.
The only thing I'd disagree with you on is that you have to spend close to $5 grand to get a "real pro model." In fact, you see several of them go for much less every day on the forum. I have to keep believing that so little guys like me have a chance!
The only thing I'd disagree with you on is that you have to spend close to $5 grand to get a "real pro model." In fact, you see several of them go for much less every day on the forum. I have to keep believing that so little guys like me have a chance!
Click here for the Index to Mickey Adams's YouTube video lessons
Insert impressive gear list here.
Insert impressive gear list here.
-
- Posts: 46
- Joined: 6 May 2013 9:46 am
- Location: New Jersey, USA
Triple changers
Fred told me that triple changers mean you are going to have more pedals and levers, and for custom and personal tunings. He also said that his changers are the same on all models, just function differently.I think. Doesn't split tuning give me a lot more options? I wonder if Buddy Cage ever asked these questions. Should I join a band before I learn to play? Should I start writin songs? I hate flyin, should I get a tour bus? Well, I better figure out a stage name.
Ernie
Ernie
thanx for lettin me in
- John Scanlon
- Posts: 688
- Joined: 2 Dec 2009 8:38 am
- Location: Jackson, Mississippi, USA
- Contact:
I'm not an expert, just now having sold my only steel I've ever owned, which was a 2-up-and-1-down guitar, so take this with a grain of salt, but I think there are two primary advantages to a changer with more holes in the fingers.
For one thing, a 2-up/1-down limits the number of pulls you can have on one string. Take the 4th string, the E. If you have a standard F lever, a standard E lever, and a standard C pedal, then all of your holes on the changer for that string are taken, and you can't add anymore to it. Both "up" holes are taken by the C pedal (E to F#) and the F lever (E to F), and the down hole by the E lever (E to D#/Eb). If you wanted to add another change on that string, you couldn't do so without sacrificing those standard pulls.
Also, even if you don't need all six holes on any one finger, I'd imagine having a choice of hole on the finger would also affect pedal/lever travel somewhat, not unlike the way moving a rod up and down on a bell crank does, so you can tweak when the pull arrives at the desired note - which I think would be especially helpful if you're pulling more than one string with a single finger (wanting both to arrive at the desired pitch at the same time). There are many, many other people on here more knowledgeable than I on this who could no doubt add more to the conversation.
[EDIT - a third advantage of extra finger holes I believe is for a use which allows tuneable splits.]
For one thing, a 2-up/1-down limits the number of pulls you can have on one string. Take the 4th string, the E. If you have a standard F lever, a standard E lever, and a standard C pedal, then all of your holes on the changer for that string are taken, and you can't add anymore to it. Both "up" holes are taken by the C pedal (E to F#) and the F lever (E to F), and the down hole by the E lever (E to D#/Eb). If you wanted to add another change on that string, you couldn't do so without sacrificing those standard pulls.
Also, even if you don't need all six holes on any one finger, I'd imagine having a choice of hole on the finger would also affect pedal/lever travel somewhat, not unlike the way moving a rod up and down on a bell crank does, so you can tweak when the pull arrives at the desired note - which I think would be especially helpful if you're pulling more than one string with a single finger (wanting both to arrive at the desired pitch at the same time). There are many, many other people on here more knowledgeable than I on this who could no doubt add more to the conversation.
[EDIT - a third advantage of extra finger holes I believe is for a use which allows tuneable splits.]
Last edited by John Scanlon on 26 Jul 2013 12:53 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Click here for the Index to Mickey Adams's YouTube video lessons
Insert impressive gear list here.
Insert impressive gear list here.
-
- Posts: 46
- Joined: 6 May 2013 9:46 am
- Location: New Jersey, USA
hate to hear you have no steel
John, sounds to me that you know quite a bit. I think i'm beginning to get it. I hope your getting another soon. you should have one, I am sure you can play.
Thanks for the comments
Ernie
Thanks for the comments
Ernie
thanx for lettin me in
- John Scanlon
- Posts: 688
- Joined: 2 Dec 2009 8:38 am
- Location: Jackson, Mississippi, USA
- Contact:
Hope I'm proving some help and not further confusion. You may know this already, so excuse me if you do, but this is all because the bottom holes of the all-pull changer finger are dedicated lowering-pitch holes, and the top ones are dedicated raising-pitch holes.
In my few short years playing steel, I have learned an amazing amount 1) on here, and 2) by reading the old issues of Steel Guitarist that came with my subscription to the forum (or for like 5 extra bucks, or something). Winnie Winston had a few great columns in those magazines about the mechanics of pedal steels - not unlike the info in his book on mechanics. No doubt, I spend too much time reading about it and not enough time playing. But I have to admit - reading about steel is very enjoyable to me, almost as enjoyable as playing one - maybe even moreso in that I don't make audible mistakes when reading. The all-pull changer to me is one of those things that is at the same time both simple and genius / elegant. If you don't have those magazines yet, send the forum 5 bucks and gain priceless knowledge (as well as history) about pedal steel. But that's me - I have to know exactly how something works when I'm involved in it, and I've always been that way.
There may also be some good images or even animated GIFs on here someone could point you to via link to help you visualize it even more.
EDIT - here's one: http://steelguitar.com/maps/changer.html
Be sure and click on both "lowering" and "raising" to see both animations.
In my few short years playing steel, I have learned an amazing amount 1) on here, and 2) by reading the old issues of Steel Guitarist that came with my subscription to the forum (or for like 5 extra bucks, or something). Winnie Winston had a few great columns in those magazines about the mechanics of pedal steels - not unlike the info in his book on mechanics. No doubt, I spend too much time reading about it and not enough time playing. But I have to admit - reading about steel is very enjoyable to me, almost as enjoyable as playing one - maybe even moreso in that I don't make audible mistakes when reading. The all-pull changer to me is one of those things that is at the same time both simple and genius / elegant. If you don't have those magazines yet, send the forum 5 bucks and gain priceless knowledge (as well as history) about pedal steel. But that's me - I have to know exactly how something works when I'm involved in it, and I've always been that way.
There may also be some good images or even animated GIFs on here someone could point you to via link to help you visualize it even more.
EDIT - here's one: http://steelguitar.com/maps/changer.html
Be sure and click on both "lowering" and "raising" to see both animations.
Click here for the Index to Mickey Adams's YouTube video lessons
Insert impressive gear list here.
Insert impressive gear list here.
-
- Posts: 21192
- Joined: 16 Feb 1999 1:01 am
- Location: Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.
Re: What is meant by 2 up 1 down changers?
No, I wouldn't say it's obsolete...but, in all honesty, I would say that $1800 is an awful lot of money for a guitar like that.Ernie Galletta wrote:I am buying a new guitar, if it has this system, is it obsolete?
-
- Posts: 158
- Joined: 24 Jan 2005 1:01 am
- Location: N GA, USA
- John Billings
- Posts: 9344
- Joined: 11 Jul 2002 12:01 am
- Location: Ohio, USA
"Early rack/barrel Buds were 1+ and 1-"
That's correct Stormy, but,,,,,,The changer was only one part of the equation. The racks and barrels were an integral part of the changer mechanics. If you could fit 100 racks under the guitar, the changer could be considered as 100 up and 100 down. You could put as many barrels on a pull rod as you want, and had racks for. A GREAT system, and it's my favorite. That changer is unlimited as far as raise and lowers go.
Best,
JB
That's correct Stormy, but,,,,,,The changer was only one part of the equation. The racks and barrels were an integral part of the changer mechanics. If you could fit 100 racks under the guitar, the changer could be considered as 100 up and 100 down. You could put as many barrels on a pull rod as you want, and had racks for. A GREAT system, and it's my favorite. That changer is unlimited as far as raise and lowers go.
Best,
JB
-
- Posts: 46
- Joined: 6 May 2013 9:46 am
- Location: New Jersey, USA
thanks fellas.
Gettin my guitar this week , as a beginner, it is way more steel than I require, but at 64 I can afford to indulge myself. I will have one of only "100" Justice custom steels. Fred is salt of the earth, and finished my steel ahead of schedule. I drove him crazy with questions that he answered with patience.
Thanks Fred.
Thanks Fred.
thanx for lettin me in
-
- Posts: 46
- Joined: 6 May 2013 9:46 am
- Location: New Jersey, USA
thanks fellas.
Gettin my guitar this week , as a beginner, it is way more steel than I require, but at 64 I can afford to indulge myself. I will have one of only "100" Justice custom steels. Fred is salt of the earth, and finished my steel ahead of schedule. I drove him crazy with questions that he answered with patience.
Thanks Fred.
Thanks Fred.
thanx for lettin me in
-
- Posts: 1408
- Joined: 1 Oct 2009 4:16 pm
- Location: Silver City, NM. USA