Deluxe Reverb Reissue-changes in newer models?

Keith DeLong · Post by **Keith DeLong** » 3 May 2013 7:06 am

I have a DeLuxe Reverb reissue I bought in 2007, it's now in the shop for a recurring problem with the signal dropping in level as much as 20 db, then returning to normal after a minute or so. Tried changing output tubes, rebiasing, worked ok for a while, then the fault came back, and they haven't been able to duplicate the problem in the shop. I now am using a rental DRRI, which looks a little different in the back, rubber covered on/off and standby switches, also the output tubes are protected by a metal cage of some sort, maybe a heat sink. I do notice that the newer amp does not run as hot as my older one--anyone have any thoughts on this?

Michael Hummel · Post by **Michael Hummel** » 3 May 2013 9:57 am

Hi Keith:

The amp specialists will chime in, I'm sure...but I've read quite a few of their posts about the reissue amps. Apparently they are using circuit boards in the reissue amps that have common problems with cold solder joints and hairline cracks in the circuit boards that tend to show up when the amp warms up.

Hopefully your tech will find the problem; ifyou are handy with a soldering iron it might be worth reflowing all of the solder joints and checking whatever cable connectors are in there.

Just trying to provide whatever help I can to a fellow Canuck!

Cheers,
Mike

Rich Hlaves · Post by **Rich Hlaves** » 3 May 2013 10:43 am

The DRRI remains pretty much unchanged since its release. Yes, there are some cosmetic and "safety" related changes in the amp. Tube gaurds to prevent customers from being burned, switch condoms etc.

The DRRI IMO has been the most reliable amp in the RI line. Sorry to hear yours is having some issues. I would suggest cracked or cold solder joints as well. You have to pull the main board to reflow these so best left to your tech. This could be a tube socket/board issue too.

All these amps are built with lead free solder now due to the regulations in Europe. The lead free solder is quite brittle and cracks with vibration in a combo amp. I've seen several RIs in various models with this issue.

If on my bench I'd be after it with a heat gun and a chopstick to try to find the issue while running a signal through it.. Intermitant problems are the hardest to find as they are typically invisable until the present themselves. You could have a power tube loosing signal of shutting off.

As for the heat, some amps just seem to run hotter than others. Fender does a pretty poor job of setting bias on new amps and uses lower quality tubes as stock OEM and this adds to heat issues. I've see Fender amps with the bias set from 12 to 32 ma for 6V6 tubes in amps that are only a few months old. Should be about 19-22 ma in that circuit.

Best of luck getting her fixed.

Keith DeLong · Post by **Keith DeLong** » 3 May 2013 11:24 am

All valid points, I don't know if the tech pulled the chassis out or not. I've worked on point to point amps,replacing components etc. but I'm too clumsy to start messing around PC boards. I'll mention your comments to the tech, and we'll see how it goes. I use the amp mainly with a Tele,sometimes with a steel, and I love it when it' s working right. Thank you, and wish me luck

.

Dave Grafe · Post by **Dave Grafe** » 4 May 2013 8:38 pm

All these amps are built with lead free solder now due to the regulations in Europe. The lead free solder is quite brittle and cracks with vibration in a combo amp. I've seen several RIs in various models with this issue.

This is a serious problem with all electronics devices manufactured in the last several years, the lead-free solder currently in use is so brittle that it often cracks while the product is in transit from the factory, thus the booming business in 'extended warranties' for new electronics products.