advice on restoring emmons case

Lynn Kasdorf · Post by **Lynn Kasdorf** » 6 May 2012 7:16 pm

The case for my Lashley Legrande is structurally fine, but the tolex is shot. I don't think I'll have any trouble at all redoing the tolex. What I'm concerned about are all the rivets that hold on the metal hardware like the corner protectors, latches and such.

What is the right way to remove these? And I guess that rivets should go back on. Where do I get these?

Jack Stoner · Post by **Jack Stoner** » 7 May 2012 2:29 am

The rivets are most likely "split rivets" and after you get the inside covering off you will be able to bend the tabs so you can remove them. They are not reuseable, you will have to get some new split rivets (if that is what you want to use). I've used split rivets on many cases. The last split rivets, I bought on e-bay and no problems either with shipping them or the rivets themselves.

When you redo the case, you will have to cover the outside and install all the hardware (with the new split rivets) and then do the inside covering last.

Jerry Overstreet · Post by **Jerry Overstreet** » 7 May 2012 3:05 am

Any recommendations for an anvil or tool when installing split rivets Jack?

kyle reid · Post by **kyle reid** » 7 May 2012 9:32 am

where can you get the proper tolex & rivets ? & what glue to use? Thanks!

Jack Stoner · Post by **Jack Stoner** » 7 May 2012 9:52 am

I fasten the split rivets by hand. I use a flat screwdriver to bend then partially over then use a punch and hammer to finish flattening them. You need a solid surface on the head side to hold the rivet in.

There are have been several threads on tolex and glues. I get my Tolex either from Antique Radio - www.tubesandmore.com or from Mojotone. I buy the better grades of Tolex. I use the regular Tolex glue sold by Antique Radio (I think the glue Mojotone sells is about the same). Others report using Weldwood contact glue (don't remember the specific type).

Here is a sample from the last two piece case set I built (I used 3/8" birch plywood for the case). Split Rivets were used for everything except the handle. Screws and "T nuts" were used for the handle.

Buddy Castleberry · Post by **Buddy Castleberry** » 7 May 2012 12:15 pm

when you get the hardware off find a linex bedliner
dealer .let them spray it with linex it will look great no more tears or scuffs.ive done speaker cabinets that way .i paid $30.00 per cabinet.they use to do the yamaha speakers that way .they will as good as jacks pics .they also can do different colors may cost more
i would get them to do mine while they were doing a big job.save a little that way

David Beckner · Post by **David Beckner** » 7 May 2012 2:55 pm

instead of tolex I would cover it with Marine Vinyl.It will last three times as long as this stuff they pass off for Tolex these days. For adhesive Weldwood Contact Cement - be sure to cover both the wood and the material with a generous amount..
The split rivets can be found at almost any pet store that carries collars, horse tack etc. You can also use a small T-nut and a machine screw if desired..The dest and easiest way that you can recove the existing rivets , use a small drill bit on a CORDLESS DRILL, never use an electric as it runs too fast and will often times wallow or oval out the hole..

Jerry Overstreet · Post by **Jerry Overstreet** » 8 May 2012 2:05 am

Jack Stoner wrote:I fasten the split rivets by hand. I use a flat screwdriver to bend then partially over then use a punch and hammer to finish flattening them. You need a solid surface on the head side to hold the rivet in.

Thanks Jack. The head side is what I'm referring to. It's awkward trying to wrestle the bulky case holding it tight against something while bending the rivets and keeping them tight. Thought maybe there was some type of portable anvil to hold the head tight against the case.

Tony Glassman · Post by **Tony Glassman** » 8 May 2012 6:48 am

Is there a reason why you can't just use pop-rivets with a pop-rivet gun? That would get rid of any need for an anvil?

My gun cost about $20, and couldn't be any easier to use.

Lynn Kasdorf · Post by **Lynn Kasdorf** » 8 May 2012 7:00 am

Tony Glassman wrote:Is there a reason why you can't just use pop-rivets with a pop-rivet gun? That would get rid of any need for an anvil?

My gun cost about $20, and couldn't be any easier to use.

A couple reasons I can think of. First, they don't look as nice as the dome head rivets. More importantly, on the inside they don't sit flat- there is the stud that gets compressed to hold the rivet it. This would get in the way of the wood insert on the inside of the case, unless you whittled clearance for the rivets.

Nice thought though- they are very easy to use and cheap.

David Beckner · Post by **David Beckner** » 8 May 2012 2:32 pm

a regular pop rivet will not hold enough surface in wood to work..

Lynn there is a tool that will work for the split rivet, although I wouldnt suggest you run out to buy one - they cost around $220.00 , call around to your local upholstery shop and ask if they have a snap set pliers,, they should be able to help you with this fairly cheap.

Jerry Overstreet · Post by **Jerry Overstreet** » 8 May 2012 5:27 pm

No pop rivets. That's a good way to really mess up your aluminum end plates and/or finish. Rivets need to be flush with the stock or less if possible before the lining goes in. Ordinary pop rivets have a mandrel head that sticks out into the guitar compartments and cannot be made to sit flush easily.

Most times, I use 3/8" #6 or 8 stainless steel wood screws to attach case hardware, but always good to avoid sharp pointy things when possible. Just considering other options.

Carl Mesrobian · Post by **Carl Mesrobian** » 10 May 2012 6:28 am

If you have troubled finding a source for rivets, here's one:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#split-rivets/=hh2lyb