I am now doing some serious work with my lap steel and I have noticed that the shubb bar I am using is awkward to cover just one or two strings leaving the rest free to ring out. (except for the first two - they are easy) It also leaves a lot to be desired on reverse slants as well. I think it would be better used on a Dobro, but I would welcome your comments that are germane to the question.
Is a round nose (like the Dunlop 920) more preferable to a bar with a slanted nose? I tried the search first and either used the wrong arguments or the answer isn't there.
Ken, I prefer a bullet bar by a mile for steel guitar. For me, there's no use for a Stevens type Dobro bar because I like to glide the bar across the strings. Some folks have difficulty holding onto the bar and lack confidence in this, and for some there are legitimate reasons, but I've found that with practice you can gain confidence in your ability to control the bullet bar. You might want to start off with a bar no longer than 2 7/8" and something with a recess for your thumb, in the event you'd like to try slanting. The Dunlop 919 bar would probably be a better place to start (3/4" x 2 3/4" for the 919 vs 7/8" x 3 1/4" for the 920).
Definitely a bullet bar. Stevens and Shubb style bars are good for dobro, because you're using a lot of open strings and hammer-ons and lifting the bar, but for lap steel, you need a bullet bar. This will make backward and split slants much easier. It takes a bit of getting used to, but it'll help a lot.
Dunlop bars are good. I have one, but my favourite is the Brozophonic bar.
Kenn, the only way that you'll ever know for sure is to try every type of bar. You'll get convincing arguments for each one so opinions will only give you a general idea.
Here's what I did: go on ebay and find a used bar, buy it and try it for a while and if yu don't like it sell it and get another until you figure it out.
I Also Use A Dunlop Jerry Byrd Model 918 Tone Bar, and My Bar Is 3/4" X 2 15/16" @ 5.5oz. Thanks, "Keep On Steelin", From The Land Of OZ - Howie
Last edited by Howard Hughes on 28 Oct 2009 8:43 am, edited 1 time in total.
Italia Maranello Gold Sparkle Guitar/6-string Lap Steel Guitar (LDG-Green)-Custom Made By Andy Hinton, (August 10, 1933 - July 3, 2011). "RIP My Friend!!", "I Think Of You Everyday & Really Miss Our Talks!!"/Coated Finger Picks By Andy Hinton/"KEEP ON PICKIN"/Blessings!/ "May You Always Have Love & Wealth To Share, Health To Spare and Friends Who Care!"/Your Fan & Friend - From The Land Of OZ - ♫Howie- "The Wizard"♫ ☺ ♥
The info on the Dunlop site was incorrect last year, but it looks like they have corrected it now. Maybe some of their packaging was labeled wrong too? Anyway, this is the one you want:
Bill Creller wrote:This is really a loaded question to ask around here
It's about time for the opposition to be heard.
I've used a Stevens on both Dobro and lap steel for years and have no problem with slants, forward or backward. Bullet bars are too hard to control in ANY situation for me. If you have to work too hard to adapt from one to another, why do it?
I just bought a Dunlop 919: 3/4" x 2 3/4" (had to be careful to avoid Nigel Tufnel dimension error there), 4.5oz. It works fine. You can't knock the Dunlop price for a tryout.
The reason I went for the 919 - I read on another thread that Jerry Byrd preferred the 2 3/4" length.
Shubb SP2 - best of both worlds: rounded nose like a bullet bar (for single note playing, split slants, etc.), grip like s Dobro bar (easier to hold on to).
We've been through this many times on this forum, and I think it boils down to the style of music you want to play and the style of bar you are most comfortable with. I like a smooth, rolling sound and I use a lot of split slants, so I prefer a round (no slot) bar with a round nose. Some players say they have a hard time holding on to a round bar and they like the slotted ones. I start all of my new lap steel students on a Dunlop 918 JB bar.
Josh, the label on your older #918 Dunlop must be a misprint. #918 is 3/4" wide, as shown on the other label pictured above. Dunlop screwed up the specs on their web site too. I sent them an email several months ago pointing out the error, and they changed the info on their site. 7/8" bars are commonly used for 10 string pedal steel. Dunlop makes those too.
I notice that BJS also offers a "Jerry Byrd" bar... they're $70.
I have 3 tone bars,a Dunlop 920,a Shubb GS[wooden handle]and a newly acquired SP2.I'm just a beginner, but this is what I have found; Forward slants-all work well.Split slants[forward] all work well. Reverse splits I haven't tried yet. Reverse slants-the 620 and the GS work well,the SP2 I find very awkward."In and out"-the 620 is the best, the SP2 works well forward not so well backward,the GS has to be lifted in either direction. Anytime the bar needs to be tilted or lifted I have some difficulty with the 920,none with the other 2. I think the previous comments about trying many different bars until you find one that fits you is the best advise.
There are more than 8,875 opinions among Steel Guitar Forum members that are still luking out there in the grayness of cyberspace. Let's hear from you.....'cause that's what makes a Forum function.
You're conflicting points of view are still valid.
Let's hear it from you! Quit holding back. Don't be shy!
It also leaves a lot to be desired on reverse slants as well. I think it would be better used on a Dobro, but I would welcome your comments that are germane to the question. 
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