Soldering/lengthening/Fender cables

Bob Carlucci · Post by **Bob Carlucci** » 1 Sep 2009 12:09 pm

I have my Fender 800 playing beautifully with 6 pedals and 2 levers performing perfectly.
I have hit a major snag however.. The last 2 knees move right...RKR LKR. One is the cable knee lever setup someone made decades ago[rkr]. They work perfectly so I would like to keep it cable.. I had to move one of the levers [rkr]and now the cable is too short. I will need to lengthen it by a foot or a tad more or less, so I can run it through one of the existing rollers.. The thought of cutting a rare 45 year old original Fender part thats still in good condition makes me kind of sick. I have thoughts in my head of not being able to solder the new lengthening piece in properly.. What kind of solder is used? Is this "silver solder"?.. What kind of heat is needed etc?.. I have found stainless wire to go to the changer, but WHERE do I find those thin brass tubes?
I suppose I could get 2 knee lever kits, and keep the cables but I am not sure I want to spend $350 on this steel.
Even if I do that I would STILL have to solder the stainless wire loops to the crosshaft pull rods... any help? bob

Stephen Calhoun · Post by **Stephen Calhoun** » 1 Sep 2009 2:37 pm

I'm interested also in how an expert tinkerer would make a modern version of the Fender cable-loop combo.

Jim will weigh in for sure.

As for brass tubing:

http://www.smallparts.com

Really great to hear you got your Fender playing beautifully.

Stan Schober · Post by **Stan Schober** » 1 Sep 2009 2:39 pm

Not sure if this is any help to you, I'd think you could get many different sizes of brass tubing at any hobby shop that sells RC aircraft supplies, along with a tubing cutter .
They should also be able to give you an idea about how hot an iron you need, I'd think a higher power gun should do it, with any good NON-acid core silver solder.if that won't cut it, I'm sure the old Bernz-O-Matic would get hot enough...

Bob Carlucci · Post by **Bob Carlucci** » 1 Sep 2009 9:22 pm

A solution smacked me in the face as I was laying under the steel for about 20 minutes just staring...The cable ends at the pedal/bellcrank/actuator end[whatever its called] have a threaded hook with an adjustable turnbuckle.Luckily the turnbuckles have the same thread as the pedal rods. Just yesterday I bought the 8-30 die for the pedal rods so I could shorten them, and keep enough thread adjustment.
I took the small threaded hook off the turnbuckle,and made one about 10 inches long. Threaded it, bent it to fit the actuator,screwed it into the turnbuckle, and the guitar has no idea that there is now a "sideways" pedal rod being pulled by a knee lever. Works slicker than snot.
Got 6 and 3 now up and running, and it sounds wonderful .Plays great too.
The knee levers work well, but I doubt I can ever get them as precise as a modern pedal steel. They feel "old school" to me. However, modern steels don't sound like an old Fender, and if thats the sound you want, you just gotta deal with idiosyncracies..........bob

Stan Schober · Post by **Stan Schober** » 1 Sep 2009 9:54 pm

See?!
We knew a bright , resourceful fellow like you would figure out a solution.

I'm just waitin' til you guys figure out all the tricks before I buy one...

Dave Zirbel · Post by **Dave Zirbel** » 1 Sep 2009 11:20 pm

If the knee levers feel a little stiff then try replacing the return springs on the changer. It will help with the lowers but make sure the springs are still strong enough for all the pulls to return.

Russ Tkac · Post by **Russ Tkac** » 2 Sep 2009 4:51 am

Bob Carlucci wrote: They feel "old school" to me.

bob,

We look "Old School" so it's a perfect match!

Russ

Bob Carlucci · Post by **Bob Carlucci** » 2 Sep 2009 5:15 am

Thanks Dave.. I can deal with the lowers. They are a little stiffer than a modern guitar,no doubt.
Tried backing the springs off and found that at a certain point the notes return sharp, flat, both, and the guitar is a mess. I have found a decent balance . Pedal lowers are fine. The E-Eb lower on RKR is a tad stiffer than I like, but I deal with it no problem. I tried to soften it with disasterous consequences and had to stiffen the spring back up.

Bob Carlucci · Post by **Bob Carlucci** » 2 Sep 2009 5:17 am

Russ Tkac wrote:
Bob Carlucci wrote: They feel "old school" to me.

bob,

We look "Old School" so it's a perfect match!

Russ

Hey Russ.. speak for yourself. I am still a handsome virile stud with hot young chicks following me around.

Russ Tkac · Post by **Russ Tkac** » 2 Sep 2009 5:34 am

Sorry bob. I thought you were the old guy in the picture I saw playing a Carter. My mistake.

Jim Sliff · Post by **Jim Sliff** » 2 Sep 2009 6:13 am

Quick notes (threw my back out and am trying to ice/type...not fun...):

1. Silver solder and either a 100 watt minimum iron or a propane (or butane) torch. PRACTICE ON SOMETHING ELSE FIRST!!!! Electrical solder (or any other with lead) is far too weak.
2. For cable, 1/16" "wire rope" from Home Depot works perfectly
3. Dont thread new pedal rods until you check the ends you have - some are 8-32, some are 10-32!

J-

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Soldering/lengthening/Fender cables

Soldering/lengthening/Fender cables

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