Fingertip Marlen? Good deal for somebody?
Moderator: Shoshanah Marohn
Fingertip Marlen? Good deal for somebody?
I have nothing to do with the auction below but it looked like a good deal on a D-10 if the fingertip mechanism is good.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Marlen-Model-210-Do ... .m20.l1116
http://cgi.ebay.com/Marlen-Model-210-Do ... .m20.l1116
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Perhaps...as long as you're not a beginner. These old pull/release guitars look and sound pretty good, but their mechanism isn't the sturdiest. While a good steel tech could repair and refurb, eliminating the weak points, a beginner might be chasing his tail trying to get it (and keep it) in tune.Good deal for somebody?
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marlen
i agree with jimbeaux, that'd make a very cool project....
must resist...
must resist...
....lloyd green is a steel guitar hero...
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- Ricky Davis
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The serial number "191791" Read backwards is the year and month and day....So it's actually a 1971 Marlen. The window cut outs in the end plates are standard for the '70s Marlens; as it can be setup as pull-release and you tune the spring tension on the rod for the idle open note position(but looks like that it is not set up that way now.).
The two small holes drilled by the input jack; most likely was someone experimenting with coil tap switches.
That is an old bird alright....but yes; agreed, it needs a Marlen mechanic to go through it and certainly is not for the beginner steel player that needs to play a raise and lowering pedal steel.
Ricky
The two small holes drilled by the input jack; most likely was someone experimenting with coil tap switches.
That is an old bird alright....but yes; agreed, it needs a Marlen mechanic to go through it and certainly is not for the beginner steel player that needs to play a raise and lowering pedal steel.
Ricky
Ricky Davis
Email Ricky: sshawaiian2362@gmail.com
Email Ricky: sshawaiian2362@gmail.com
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Jim Cohen wrote:Are you saying you think $895 is high for a D10 with 8+2? If you're not afraid of mechanical stuff (like I am), that's a heckuva deal even if ya had to pay the shipping.Bill Hatcher wrote:Free shipping. Should be at that price.
Randy.
Yes. I have what is left of a Marlen D12 that looks like this model. Someone removed the back neck on it and I replaced it with a non pedal 12 neck.
You could probably find an old MSA D10 for a little more or maybe even a little less if your lucky and you would have a much more reliable guitar that is mecanically better.
If I was looking for just a cool old vintage guitar for some cool factor and some tinkering, then this Marlen might fit the bill....for four or five hundred bucks.
If money is no object then anything is a good deal.
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Well, that could be arguable, as I, too, have a late '60s Marlen D10, only a few years older than the one pictured. The crossrods are only 5/16", and there is no center support. The bushings in the body are so flimsy as to be laughable, and the pedal stop is a piece of .032" galvanized steel tacked to a 3/4" x 1" piece of wood. To say that the action would be "less than precise" with these three ingredients would be an understatement. The best sound is useless without reliability and stability. Now, you could "play around" the limited changer, but without good tuning stability, every pedal push likely puts you further out of tune, and further into frustration. Compared to this instrument, even a Fender 2000 is a "Swiss watch".If you're not afraid of mechanical stuff (like I am), that's a heckuva deal even if ya had to pay the shipping.
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I wouldn't recommend it to a beginner, but I think it would be a fun guitar to have for country jam sessions. Limited, but in a good way.
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Oh! So that's it! Man, that completely escaped me. Sorry 'bout that, Bill. But since it seems to be working well for us, why don't we just stick to 'Donny' and 'Randy'? It'll be 'our little secret language' (but really, I'd still like to be 'Frank' with you...) ;~)Bill Hatcher wrote:Been playing a little tag with you with the Randy thing ever since you called me Donny in the A11 thread. Your it.Jim Cohen wrote: You can call me Randy (but can I be 'Frank' with you?)
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Many a good tune...
Played on an old fiddle - and by extension, an old steel. I have one of these, built in 1972. It has 4 knee levers though. I have modified it to make tuning easier and to change the copedent.
I have learned so much about steel guitars from this exercise, and although the action doesn't compare to modern steels in terms of feel (and excessive free movement) it still sounds good.
It holds its tune for weeks on end. OK, I don't go out gigging, I'm not good enough for that, but it's ok and better than it is given credit for.
Marlens are ok with me.
Will Cowell,
Huntingdon, UK
I have learned so much about steel guitars from this exercise, and although the action doesn't compare to modern steels in terms of feel (and excessive free movement) it still sounds good.
It holds its tune for weeks on end. OK, I don't go out gigging, I'm not good enough for that, but it's ok and better than it is given credit for.
Marlens are ok with me.
Will Cowell,
Huntingdon, UK
Williams 700 series keyless U12,
Sierra keyless U14, Eezzee-Slide & BJS bars
Moth-eaten old Marshall 150 combo
Roland Cube 80XL, Peterson Strobo+HD,
EarthQuaker Despatch Master for reverb / delay
Sierra keyless U14, Eezzee-Slide & BJS bars
Moth-eaten old Marshall 150 combo
Roland Cube 80XL, Peterson Strobo+HD,
EarthQuaker Despatch Master for reverb / delay
I had a Speedy West Marlen that was a few years newer than this one, with a simple pull-release changer. It actually had the smoothest pedal action of any pedal steel I've ever played. It was a very "direct" sensation - I felt that I was pulling the string, as opposed to pulling a machine that pulled the string.
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