Nv 400 Question
Moderator: Shoshanah Marohn
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Nv 400 Question
I have looked over the forum index and did not find a spacific place to ask questions, so since the topic i an addressing has to do with a NV 400 AMP this may be the best place to start.
Un liss I am missing something The Mastere Reverb know does not seem to work, although it most likely has for some one because I see a mark on the #4 position. can some one inform me on this feature.
Years ago I had a Fender [tubes] worked great. but in this day....well you get the point.
If you are running a NV 400 maybe you can give me a clue.
I would sell it and get something lighter, but not until I get this problem solved.
Thank you
Wayne D. Clark
Desert Rose S 10 3/5
Un liss I am missing something The Mastere Reverb know does not seem to work, although it most likely has for some one because I see a mark on the #4 position. can some one inform me on this feature.
Years ago I had a Fender [tubes] worked great. but in this day....well you get the point.
If you are running a NV 400 maybe you can give me a clue.
I would sell it and get something lighter, but not until I get this problem solved.
Thank you
Wayne D. Clark
Desert Rose S 10 3/5
- Richard Sinkler
- Posts: 17067
- Joined: 15 Aug 1998 12:01 am
- Location: aka: Rusty Strings -- Missoula, Montana
Most common problem is the Molex plug that plugs into the chassis. Make sure it fits tight. At this point, I would unplug it, spray the contacts with contact cleaner, tighten the female contacts by LIGHTLY squeezing them with pliers and plug back into the chassis. We see posts crop up here often about reverb problems on Peavey gear, and this seems to be the main fix.
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- Joined: 10 Jan 2006 1:01 am
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Thank you for the information Richard, I kook the Reverb down to the basics checked out all the connections, reassembled but no success. However when I trun the reverb knob I do get static. and another thing I noticed when I turn the Amp on the red power light stays on but the little COMP light flicks on and promptly goes out. Well when you purchase unseen and untested some times all is not as well as one expected. Other than that it will take the windows out of the room.
Wayne D. Clark
Desert Rose S10 3/5
Wayne D. Clark
Desert Rose S10 3/5
- Brad Sarno
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It's possible that the output coil inside the reverb tank is broken. They do often break from the tank bouncing around. This will give you noise but no reverb.
Also, the compressor light blinking on at power up is normal I believe. I guess it's compressing the power-on surge.
So maybe try another reverb tank, or look closely inside the reverb tank to see if the little wires have broken at the "out" end near the tiny coil.
Those amps are very rugged and reliable. Sounds like a minor repair to me.
Brad
Also, the compressor light blinking on at power up is normal I believe. I guess it's compressing the power-on surge.
So maybe try another reverb tank, or look closely inside the reverb tank to see if the little wires have broken at the "out" end near the tiny coil.
Those amps are very rugged and reliable. Sounds like a minor repair to me.
Brad
- chris ivey
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- Richard Sinkler
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- Benton Allen
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- Location: Muscle Shoals, Alabama, USA
This is fron the Nashville 400 user manual concerning the compression light:
I would take another look at the reverb unit itself. Look closely at the small wires that go to the little transformers on each end of the unit. If one of those wires has broken off the output end, that would cause the problem you describe.
I have had a couple of these 400's for years and have had no problems with them. They are fine amps. If it were me, I'd just use a Boss RV-5 with the rig and forget the reverb in the amp. You'd have much more versitily that way.
Hope this helps,
Cheers!
Benton
Brad is correct, the light only comes on when the DDT circuit is being activated.DDT’” COMPRESSION LED
The Nashville 400 is a compact and powerful amplifier that features a 210 watt RMS power amp (at 4 ohms) with a full
compliment of equalization controls and a new type of dynamic compression. The compression effect enables us to maximize the performance of the amp/speaker combination. We have determined through much research that the compression circuitry should prevent the poweramplifier/speakercombination from running out of headroom (clipping)and should be as simple to operate as possible to avoid undue complications for the user. Our compression circuitry is very effective. Because of the dynamics and the percussive nature of plucked strings, it is quite common to activate the compression as indicated by the limit LED at reasonably low output levels. One should not be concerned that the limit LED indicates compression virtually constantly during a performance, since this is what it was designed to do. The system was designed to maximize the dynamics available from the amp within its power output capabilities. We have not included other compression controls since we have designed an exclusive distortion detection system which is patented and senses conditions that might cause overload and activates compression only when clipping is imminent. This technique effectively utilizes every precious watt available from the Nashville 400.
I would take another look at the reverb unit itself. Look closely at the small wires that go to the little transformers on each end of the unit. If one of those wires has broken off the output end, that would cause the problem you describe.
I have had a couple of these 400's for years and have had no problems with them. They are fine amps. If it were me, I'd just use a Boss RV-5 with the rig and forget the reverb in the amp. You'd have much more versitily that way.
Hope this helps,
Cheers!
Benton
Intermittent reverb connections can cause the DDT light to engage.
Best way to test the tank is to pull the Molex connector form the chassis and use an ohm meter to test each shielded cable for resistance. That way you are checking the cable and connections integrity as well as the reverb tank. If you see an open circuit on either cable you have a problem to isolate.
If all is well there, re-tension the Molex female pins with a small jeweler's screwdriver (flat blade) and re-connect.
If that all checks good then it is time for a tech to have a look at the amp.
Best way to test the tank is to pull the Molex connector form the chassis and use an ohm meter to test each shielded cable for resistance. That way you are checking the cable and connections integrity as well as the reverb tank. If you see an open circuit on either cable you have a problem to isolate.
If all is well there, re-tension the Molex female pins with a small jeweler's screwdriver (flat blade) and re-connect.
If that all checks good then it is time for a tech to have a look at the amp.
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