Volume pedal question
Moderator: Shoshanah Marohn
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Volume pedal question
I'm looking for volume pedal suggestions.
My current volume pedal is an Ernie Ball. It's around 7 years old give or take and the pot is noisy around point where volume kicks in (although there's no noise at higher levels). Without taking it apart, I've sprayed pot cleaner in it as best I can and also have lubed the rest of it with silicone lubricant - that usually cleans up the problem for a couple of days but then it comes back.
Questions: Should I replace the pot? Should I/can I get a better pot than EB's stock? Should I just get another pedal & if so, any suggestions?
I'm very much a less-is-more, passive electronics, tube kind of guy. I'm also not crazy about this particular pedal although it looks very cool and wasn't cheap. But I could use stiffer travel since I use it as well for six string and it also resonates or acts microphonic sometimes (at moderately high volumes with effects) causing feedback problems.
Thanks in advance for suggestions.
My current volume pedal is an Ernie Ball. It's around 7 years old give or take and the pot is noisy around point where volume kicks in (although there's no noise at higher levels). Without taking it apart, I've sprayed pot cleaner in it as best I can and also have lubed the rest of it with silicone lubricant - that usually cleans up the problem for a couple of days but then it comes back.
Questions: Should I replace the pot? Should I/can I get a better pot than EB's stock? Should I just get another pedal & if so, any suggestions?
I'm very much a less-is-more, passive electronics, tube kind of guy. I'm also not crazy about this particular pedal although it looks very cool and wasn't cheap. But I could use stiffer travel since I use it as well for six string and it also resonates or acts microphonic sometimes (at moderately high volumes with effects) causing feedback problems.
Thanks in advance for suggestions.
- Dale Hansen
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Hi Jim,
If you'd like to replace the pot in the pedal that you currently have, I'd really reccomend the Dunlop pots that Tom Bradshaw carries.
http://www.songwriter.com/bradshaw/pots.php
I just recently put one in my Goodrich pedal, and it's performed very well. As far as getting a different pedal, there are always a few used Goodrich pedals in the "misc.for sale" section in here.
Personally, I have never had any luck with restoring a scratchy pot to it's former glory by spraying cleaners into it. Replacement has always been the better option.
Good luck,
DH
If you'd like to replace the pot in the pedal that you currently have, I'd really reccomend the Dunlop pots that Tom Bradshaw carries.
http://www.songwriter.com/bradshaw/pots.php
I just recently put one in my Goodrich pedal, and it's performed very well. As far as getting a different pedal, there are always a few used Goodrich pedals in the "misc.for sale" section in here.
Personally, I have never had any luck with restoring a scratchy pot to it's former glory by spraying cleaners into it. Replacement has always been the better option.
Good luck,
DH
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What kind of cleaner are you using? Does it contain a (silicone) lubricant? Did you take the cover off the pot? Spraying the shaft bushing often won't do anything if the problem is a dirty resistance element.
Also, feedback doesn't really come from a volume pedal. It can, however, be caused by a pot that's not wired properly, and is "opening" a shunt circuit.
Also, feedback doesn't really come from a volume pedal. It can, however, be caused by a pot that's not wired properly, and is "opening" a shunt circuit.
Last edited by Donny Hinson on 26 Apr 2008 9:35 am, edited 1 time in total.
- Brian ONeil
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I'm right there with you Jim! I started with a Ernie Ball pedal, but I was given an older Goodrich 120 and I gotta say I prefer this pedal. The throw feels a little better and may serve you well while playing six string. I've also (for whatever reason) found that changing the pot in the Goodrich is at first a little awkward but becomes much easier over time. You may want to see if you can borrow one of these from a friend or a music store and see what you think.I'm very much a less-is-more, passive electronics, tube kind of guy.
It's all a matter of preference, so try the Goodrich and see what happens!
- Ronnie Boettcher
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Before you spray the cleaner/lube into the pot, all you have to do is pry up 4 little tabs, and take the can off the back. Then clean the entire surface of the resistance, and the wiper. Then use the spray again and blow it off. Respray, let it dry, and replace the canbend the 4 tabs back down and it should be good. If it isn't, then install a new pot. On my Sho-bud pedal, I just bend back 3 of the 4 tabs, so I can clean it without removing the pot from the pedal. It works for me. I bought the cleaner/lube from radio shack.
Sho-Bud LDG, Martin D28, Ome trilogy 5 string banjo, Ibanez 4-string bass, dobro, fiddle, and a tubal cain. Life Member of AFM local 142
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Thanks for the tips. The cleaner I've used is contact and head cleaner called "Nexxtech" which I think I bought at "The Source" (formerly Radio Shack). It doesn't contain any silicone - just isopropanol, isobutane and propane. I use a silicone lubricant for the other moving parts. I haven't yet taken the pot apart, but maybe I'll try that before replacing it.
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Propane? I was thinking of using it for the bbq, not drinking it.
Anyway, I sprayed a little silicone lube on as well when I had it apart and it seems to work ok now. I've ordered a Dunlop pot so this is only temporary.
BTW if anyone wants to know all the possible mistakes you can make in reassembling a pot and EB volume pedal, I am now in a position to tell you first hand.
Anyway, I sprayed a little silicone lube on as well when I had it apart and it seems to work ok now. I've ordered a Dunlop pot so this is only temporary.
BTW if anyone wants to know all the possible mistakes you can make in reassembling a pot and EB volume pedal, I am now in a position to tell you first hand.
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Jim,
I've fought the volume pot problem for years. It seems they start getting noisy after about 2 years--sometimes less. The 'dirt' that accumulates inside is from the carbon pile contact that rides on the rheostat. As it wears the debris builds. When you remove the cover, if you still have some of the carbon contact left you may get by with just cleaning it. If the carbon is totally worn so that the metal part is touching, a new pot is the only solution. I have temporily helped the problem by drilling a small hole in the cover and flushing it with contact cleaner. You will be amazed at the amount of black crap that comes out. Good luck.
Jerry Johnston
Started with no talent--still have most of it.
Sho-Bud twin twelve
Kline single twelve
I've fought the volume pot problem for years. It seems they start getting noisy after about 2 years--sometimes less. The 'dirt' that accumulates inside is from the carbon pile contact that rides on the rheostat. As it wears the debris builds. When you remove the cover, if you still have some of the carbon contact left you may get by with just cleaning it. If the carbon is totally worn so that the metal part is touching, a new pot is the only solution. I have temporily helped the problem by drilling a small hole in the cover and flushing it with contact cleaner. You will be amazed at the amount of black crap that comes out. Good luck.
Jerry Johnston
Started with no talent--still have most of it.
Sho-Bud twin twelve
Kline single twelve
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Drilling??? It's far easier to just remove the cover, and you can do a far better job of cleaning, too. Also, I've "renewed" several pots for players who had the carbon block worn down by just turning the block up on it's edge. And in one case, I even made a new one out of an old motor brush!I have temporily helped the problem by drilling a small hole in the cover and flushing it with contact cleaner.
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Your first mistake was using "contact cleaner". Never, ever use contact cleaner on a pot - it will (as it did in this case) destroy it. Contact cleaner contains nothing but solvents - pots all have a lubricant on the surface of the contacts that help keep them from wearing out (one reason many older pots are still fine after decades of use).
One use of cleaner and then a couple hours' use and the contact area on the pt will be worn to nothing, especially ifit WAS dirty - because cleaning will have removed dirt but left rough spots.
ONLY use a cleaner/lubricant on pots, or a cleaner followed by a specific pot lube.
I've read tons of complaints about modern pots not lasting long, but I also note quite a few cases of cleaner use - well meaning "maintenance" that wrecks parts.
It's good you ordered a new pot, because your old one is shot.
also a recommendation - for electronics parts maintenance items - like cleaner/lubricant - find a real electronics store. Radio Shack clerks I've asked about this type of product invariably recommend the wrong thing, except ONCE when I as (correctly) directed to a two-can set of Caig products. Not cheap, but it comes in a cleaner and lube set )Deoxit and Pro Gold). I actually buy large containers fr0m other sources, but a little goes a LONG way and 15 bucks for the two small containers gets you enough product to last for years if you have one or two guitars, pedals and amps.
One use of cleaner and then a couple hours' use and the contact area on the pt will be worn to nothing, especially ifit WAS dirty - because cleaning will have removed dirt but left rough spots.
ONLY use a cleaner/lubricant on pots, or a cleaner followed by a specific pot lube.
I've read tons of complaints about modern pots not lasting long, but I also note quite a few cases of cleaner use - well meaning "maintenance" that wrecks parts.
It's good you ordered a new pot, because your old one is shot.
also a recommendation - for electronics parts maintenance items - like cleaner/lubricant - find a real electronics store. Radio Shack clerks I've asked about this type of product invariably recommend the wrong thing, except ONCE when I as (correctly) directed to a two-can set of Caig products. Not cheap, but it comes in a cleaner and lube set )Deoxit and Pro Gold). I actually buy large containers fr0m other sources, but a little goes a LONG way and 15 bucks for the two small containers gets you enough product to last for years if you have one or two guitars, pedals and amps.
No chops, but great tone
1930's/40's Rickenbacher/Rickenbacker 6&8 string lap steels
1921 Weissenborn Style 2; Hilo&Schireson hollownecks
Appalachian, Regal & Dobro squarenecks
1959 Fender 400 9+2 B6;1960's Fender 800 3+3+2; 1948 Fender Dual-8 Professional
1930's/40's Rickenbacher/Rickenbacker 6&8 string lap steels
1921 Weissenborn Style 2; Hilo&Schireson hollownecks
Appalachian, Regal & Dobro squarenecks
1959 Fender 400 9+2 B6;1960's Fender 800 3+3+2; 1948 Fender Dual-8 Professional
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I have here a product, Radio Shack brand, called "Control/Contact Cleaner & Lubricant". (Radio Shack item #64-4315) ("For electro-mechanical devices--especially drum-type TV tuners" "Reduces wear--safe on most plastics").
It contains1,1,1,2-Tetrafluoroethane CAS#811-97-2, White mineral oil CAS# 64742-21-8, Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane CAS#541-02-6.
Is this the equivalent of a Caig product suitable for pots?
It contains1,1,1,2-Tetrafluoroethane CAS#811-97-2, White mineral oil CAS# 64742-21-8, Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane CAS#541-02-6.
Is this the equivalent of a Caig product suitable for pots?
Use Caig fader lube. It's expensive stuff, but it'll make a sow's ear into a silk purse. I used it to restore an old quad receiver (circa 1970) which sounded like it was 40 years old (scratcy pots, cut-outs, etc., etc., ) into just as good as the day I first bought it. Believe it or not - Caig G5 will also clean your mechanical wristwatch just by spraying a bit into the works (carefully). It works. I had one that was all gummed up, would only run for an hour or so, then stop, and was hard to move the stem to set the time. A couple of squirts with the Caig D5 contact cleaner and it runs like a new one...
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- Earnest Bovine
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