ShoBud Pro II 4th string won't stay in tune

[Dave Stewart]

I am having trouble with my ShoBud. The 4th string won't return to pitch after raising or lowering it. I've tried to adjusted the return springs underneath (for strings 4 and , but nothing helps. I also placed a little oil on top of the changer mechanism to work it's way down. I was hoping someone may have a solution (other than buying a new guitar...lol).

It's a D-10 with 8 pedals and 4 knees.

Thanks,
Dave

[TRAP TRULY]

Did you try releasing tension of the string and rolling the nut roller around applying a little oil? Maybe the roller is sticking and just needs cleaning/oil. Also, you could check to see if the pull- rod is binding an another rod underneath if the return springs are all correct.

[Bo Legg]

None of my sho-buds will come back exactly to pitch on the 4th string and I don't know if any Steel will or any string for that matter that will. It is most noticeable when you go for a C pedal (raise the E up to an F#)and then lower the E with a knee lever to a D# and then go back to no pedals the E will be a little out, but I've never noticed more than 2 cents which is really not that noticeable. There are 3 pitch changes on that string down a 1/2 tone up a 1/2 tone and up a whole tone and I usually just compensate on the tuning. New strings take a while to set in. As their used more often the problem lessens.

[Ricky Davis]

WEll there's about 6 different mechanisms through the history of the Pro II and "The Pro II" and "The Pro II Custom".
I'd have to know which one you had??
How many raises and lowers are the fingers?? Are there raise/helper springs on this one?? Are the return/lower springs adjustable??
Slotted or pin fingers where the string hooks on??
That will get me started on how I can help you.
ricky

[Dave Stewart]

My Pro II uses a double raise, single lower for the 4th string. There are no helper springs. I have the pin type string holders. There is a philip's head screw adjustment under the nylon tuner for each string, for adjusting the return spring tension.

I just took another look under the guitar. Nothing appears to be binding. I also added a little more oil at the top of the changer mechanism, and worked the C pedal and knees for the 4th string to see if it might help. It didn't. When lowering the 4th string, it comes back flat. When raising the 4th string, it comes back sharp.

Any suggestions sure would be much appreciated.

Thanks

[Ricky Davis]

Ok; if you lower the 4th string and it comes back flat; then certainly there's not enough tension on the return spring; do tighten that enough to where the string comes back from the lower.
As for the raise....You might be a little bit into the finger with the nylon tuners.
The way to check....is hit your open E and look at it on the tuner...and then detune the nylon tuner for the C pedal raise and if that E note moves flat....than there's your prob. Also do the same thing with the E to F raise. And do the same with the E to Eb lower.
So if any of this happens....then turn the nylon tuner until it does not effect the open note anymore....then give yourself more distance to the stop underneath for any of those pedal or knee lever that did that....and tune up and your ready to go.
ricky

[Dave Stewart]

I went ahead and removed all my strings, oiled the roller nuts, making sure they weren't frozen, and then put new strings on. Still had the same problem.

I did what you said ricky, i.e., backing off the nylon nuts. The nylon nut for lowering my 4th string was in too far. My 4th string raise comes back true now. That's one problem solved.

I cannot adjust my 4th string to lower anywhere near a true Eb. It's only half way there.

I am using my left-knee-right to lower my E's. I looked under the guitar and there's a lot of up-and-down play in the crossrod brackets that screw into the wood. I tried to adjust the bellcrank position, but the crossrod is not perfectly round (one side is machined flat, which doesn't allow me any leeway to re-adjust the bellcrank position).

I then tried to adjust the stop screw, so I could gain more travel; but the lever bottoms out against the crossrod, which prevents it from going any further. I don't see anything else to adjust, other than changing some parts. Does anyone sell parts for this antique?

Thanks

[Stu Schulman]

Dave,I think that if you could send Ricky some pics of the problem he could help you out,Stu

[Ricky Davis]

WEll I'm almost certain that the raise section of the finger might be moving while your trying to lower. So look and see if that is happening?? If it is; I need the guitar to fix it; as it may be a combination of things that might be happening: ie; axle/pivots/guide plate...and then some.
On these ole double/singles or single/single; if there is any gunk in the pivot points of the fingers; when trying to lower; the raise section may move...and that's NOT good...ah..ha.
Also make sure your rod for the C pedal raise is in the hole closes to the top of guitar and E to F raise is in the next one down...for rodding purposes.
The crossbar should be round with a flat spot. That flat spot is what the set screw for the puller sets to.
Yes these ole shobuds had bad fitting with crossbars in brackets and rollers on pullers...and well I can go on and on again on the inferior machining of parts to fit...as why John Coop has fixed that prob.
Good luck..and lemme know how this part goes.
sshawaiian@austin.rr.com
Ricky

[Dave Stewart]

I just found the replacement brackets at Duane Marrs' website for my LKR. I'm going to replace them and clean up the fingers as you mentioned Ricky, and go from there.

I did check the position of the pullrods. The C pedal pull is on top, and the E to F under it.

Thanks for the help, much appreciated.
Dave