The Steel Guitar Forum

hello every one i was just wondering is a 8 string really better than a 6 string non pedal i have both i just want to know what other people think also with all the hipe in recent years about the 8 string etc how come still yet most all tab books are still written in 6 string tab how come no 8 tab or verry little if any for 8 string thanks bill

Both are great, and wonderful music is made on 6, 7, and 8 strings. I like the eight so I can add a few extra notes when I need to.
I use tab very little, so I have no comment there.
I like the E13 and C6/A7, for western swing. I am beginning to really appreciate the B11 and C diatonic tunings for the Hawaiian sounds. I think these layout better on 8 strings.

Ron

You can produce a lot of music on six strings. Since you have a plethera of tunings to choose from, six, seven, or eight doesn't really matter...especially when starting out...I would even say six could be better to start on. The key to learning steel guitar is bar manipulation and right hand muting. This can be learned on a six stringer just as easily as an 8. Plus, the wider string spacing usually found on six string guitars is preferred by many. Most of the playing is done on the top strings anyway. <FONT SIZE=1 COLOR="#8e236b"><p align=CENTER>[This message was edited by Jeff Strouse on 08 June 2004 at 11:22 PM.]</p></FONT>

I can get by on six, make due on seven, but I need eight to play what I want to hear.

For my playing, ten is "two" many.

CS

I have a six and a ten. Sometimes six is not enough and ten is too many. Maybe "Eight is Enough."

I own both 6 and 8-string instruments. 8-string instruments allows you greater options harmonically for chord voicings and strums as well as bass notes in some tunings. Personally, I find that 6-string instruments spark my creativity more than 8-string tunings where I tend to fall more into patterns. There's a certain beauty in the limitations of just six strings. that said, if you want to play traditional Western Swing, you gotta have 8 strings and preferably, a double neck.<FONT SIZE=1 COLOR="#8e236b"><p align=CENTER>[This message was edited by Andy Volk on 09 June 2004 at 06:29 AM.]</p></FONT>

6 strings are fine for a straight major tuning. If you want to work with 6th or 7th tunings, you really should have an 8 string guitar.
Erv

<SMALL>...8-string tunings where I tend to fall more into patterns. There's a certain beauty in the limitations of just six strings.</SMALL>

I couldn't agree more. On 8-string I sometimes feel that I'm playing the tuning, not the tune. Yeah, I know, there's no 'law' dictating this so it doesn't have to be like that, but that's the way it works for me.
The limitations of a 6-string is more of a challenge that makes me work harder, and brings out more of 'me'. A friend mentioned that it might have something to do with coming from a regular guitar background, and that's probably a good point.
I'll never part with my lovely GeorgeBoards '8' though. Never.

Steinar

------------------
www.gregertsen.com

I strongly recommend 6 string for the beginner steel guitarist. You are certainly NOT restricted to only major chords as inferred above. The F#9th tuning is SUPER on a 6 string, but loses its interesting sound when played on 7 or 8. Same with C#m and D9 tunings. As the beginner advances, I feel the 8 string is the way to go using C6, E9, B11. The problem I have with 10 strings is simply the string spacing. Takes a while to get used to the closer spacing of the strings, (at least, on my Sho-Bud 10 Fry Pan).
In conclusion, some of the very GREATEST steel guitar work of all time was played by the legendary Dick McIntire, Andy Iona and many others I could name, ALL of whom used 6 string guitars throughout their entire career. 'nuf sed

I love 8 for E13, on a 6 I dont hawve the low notes I like. I play alone or as the only guitar in trio or quartet usually. I think C6 is similar, but if you play normal "steel music" many would say the low notes are not needed.

But I love E and D and DADGAD on 6. And the simplicity is more challanging. You sure move the bar a lot less in E13 than in E and you CAN end up "playing the tuning"

BTW Close spacing does suck IMO

much of the great instruction on C6 6 string can be used on 8 because they just add strings to either end of CEGACE

If you have a choice, go with the 8. You can always leave two strings off if you're stuck on playing with only six strings, and add the other two strings later. For me, I use a C6 tuning low to high ACEGACEG. I like 8 strings because I can put the 5th (in my case a G) on top which is what the basic 135135 Dobro tuning does. I figured some day I'll get a Dobro and would already have a head start on the tuning. Now I've gotten used to the 5th on top and it seems handy to have it up there for many melodies. I keep the standard CEGACE in the middle and sometimes tune the low A string down to G. The G makes nice alternating (1/5) bass lines easy. The low A makes for some nice extended scale patterns and low minor chords some of the previous posters have talked about. The G and A are not so far apart that you can't switch back and forth without changing the string gauge. As far as the spacing goes, for me wider is better. I built my own 8 and it's now .407 at the bridge and .375 at the nut. Perfect for my taste. I had a closer spacing and didn't like it as well as the current set up. And last but not least.....don't get hung up with all of this technical stuff. Just play as much as you can and have fun! ;o)<FONT SIZE=1 COLOR="#8e236b"><p align=CENTER>[This message was edited by Terry Farmer on 09 June 2004 at 04:16 PM.]</p></FONT>

Seems like I've been playing 8 all my life. Lately I have the urge to step down to 7 strings, but rarely do I feel that 6 is enough.

<SMALL>Just play as much as you can and have fun </SMALL>

That's the best advice for almost any thread on the forum!

It's interesting to read everyones comments on this post.
I'm just wondering since someone posted their preference for E13 , are there more than 2-3 tuning arrangements for this tuning ?
Is there a preferable one that is used more than the other E13's ?

Well, I guess I'm the odd ball here. I have become to like the 10 string because, for me, there are more available inversions.
I use the standard A6th tuning but I've added an F# on the top and a D on the bottom. More often then not, I'm usually the only lead player in a group so I also have the option of changing my approach to a tune for the sake of variety, such as lower lead passages.
You are certainly right about the spacing. It can be annoying, especially if you have arthritis like me. It's really not too bad though because I have the further option of playing anything from Hawaiian to swing on any given night.
I also have to agree that a D8 is a very comfortable guitar to play as long as the spacing isn't to tight.
Billy

Kevin,

The main two E13 tunings are what I call "Don Helms" and "Leon McAuliffe".

Even though Don didn't invent this tuning, he is the player most associated with it's sound, as he played it on all the Hank Williams records(the ones he played on, anyways ). It is also called E6, as you primarily play the first 6 strings, and the D note is on the seventh string. This is what I would call a main tuning. It is basically C6 tuned up two steps.

It goes like this:

G#
E
C#
B
G#
E
D
B (Roy Wiggins used an low E string here)

The Leon McAuliffe E13 is more of a secondary tuning, and more something you would use on a Western Swing song. It really is a powerful tuning, and from the first time you strum it, you sound like you know what you're doing on it. Play along with some Bob Wills on this tuning, and you will see how cool it is. It is not what I would call a great "melody tuning", more for jazzy improv.

It goes like this:

E
C#
B
G#
F#
D
G#(some people tune this string to B, I prefer G#)
E

I would say these are the main two E13 tunings, but there are many variations. These are the two old standby's, though.

CS<FONT SIZE=1 COLOR="#8e236b"><p align=CENTER>[This message was edited by Chris Scruggs on 12 June 2004 at 07:36 PM.]</p></FONT><FONT SIZE=1 COLOR="#8e236b"><p align=CENTER>[This message was edited by Chris Scruggs on 12 June 2004 at 07:37 PM.]</p></FONT>

Chris , thanks for clarifying this for me . I have a version of tab for Harbor Lights I purchased from Jerry Byrd where he eliminates the D from the 5th string.

edited

I'm a big fan of 7 strings. I've got an old 7 String National Electro-Hawaiian, and I hope to locate or have made a 7-string acoustic (Weissenborn or tricone).

I also love 7-stringers. I have a late 30's Gibson Grande Console that is a D-7. Mucho fun!

Some will cry sacrilege, but I modified an old Gretsch ElectroMatic from 6 to 7. The headstock is a perfect assymetrical shape for another tuner (now grovers). I installed a Lollar Chicago 7 pickup, made a new nut and tweaked the bridge. It's sweet!

I'm a 6 string man ... my new cast aluminum steel will be a "sixer" ...

My first one will be born this week

------------------

<font size=1>www.horseshoemagnets.com </font>

"...if you want to play traditional Western Swing, you gotta have 8 strings and preferably, a double neck."

I was just at a seminar with Cindy Cashdollar and she demonstrated a neat variant of the G tuning (GBDGBD) by raising string 4 to E (GBEGBD) giving you the 6th tone of the scale. This gives a pretty western swing sound to the open voicing and only means changing one string (which would be feasible to do between songs if you wanted). This tuning is demonstarted on Cindy's "Dobro Variations" DVD with a nice arrangement of Panhandle Rag.