The Steel Guitar Forum

What type of foam do we use on all these SKB cases we are buying on ebay? Does anyone know how to properly cut it? I have a D8 Stringmaster, I would like to fit into one of these cases. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Mike

I've pondered that as well. Currently, I have some gig bags with cut twin bed eggshell foam. For the SKB, I'll probably go to one of the local medical shops around for thicker foam.

Maybe this? http://www.efoamstore.com/shopcart2/default.asp?id=10
I'll check te local places before I will order from that.

How to best cut it? I have a good idea how to cut it terribly.

Use an electric carving knife. (no kidding)

for cuttin' the foam i would use a cutter around a template of wood shaped to the guitar while compressing the foam
a press w: a sharp blade is where it's at for a clean cut
just my 2 cents
edited for "template"
<FONT SIZE=1 COLOR="#8e236b"><p align=CENTER>[This message was edited by CrowBear Schmitt on 02 December 2003 at 07:19 AM.]</p></FONT>

various sizes and colors of foam are usally available in Minnesota or JoAnn Fabric stores or hunting/camping/army surplus outlets

I can't say that I've had experience cutting foam,but, here's what I think.

You need to determine the depth of the cut. I would trace the shape on the foam using a marker. The blade should be razor sharp with an indicator (a piece of tape) so that you would be cutting to the proper depth. I would not compress the foam when cutting.

Well, that's as far as I got. Now, how do you make the horizontal cut underneath without butchering it up?

Gotcha covered. Think two layers. First layer is a full size slab, the shape of the case. Second layer--trace the instrument with a sharpie marker. Cut with a SHARP blade. A chef's knife, non-serrated, works well. Multiple passes. Think scalpel, separating the material as you work down into it. I have never worked with an electric knife but I have seen specialized power cutters used in a foam shop it it's the real deal.
Anyway, cut all the way through and then laminate to the first slab. There is no way to 'route' out the shape from a single piece and get a clean flat bottom. (At least not with home tools). I'm not sure what adhesive you would use. But if/when I do something like this, this is how I'd do it.
But I didn't ebay one of those Sierra cases so I don't have to worry about it right now

---My experience with cutting this stuff is from a couple of pieces I made that sit on top of my Carter, straddling the neck at the bridge and the nut. I can sit a lap steel on top with no harm to either instrument and no slipping. It works!<FONT SIZE=1 COLOR="#8e236b"><p align=CENTER>[This message was edited by Jon Light on 29 November 2003 at 06:14 PM.]</p></FONT>

Thanks for the suggustions guys,I think the 2 pice idea is the way to go. I'll post my results.

Mike

Yep, Jon, that's the ticket....I knew we'd get to the bottom of this by the 10th post.

BTW.....Broooklyn Foam. They supply all kinds of foam.

Ron's right- the same electric knife you'd use on your turkey is the ticket. I've done a lot of studio foam installations and it's the only way to go. Cuts clean and no ragged edges.

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Stop by the Steel Store at: www.markvanallen.com

How about other materials? Simply place the guitar in the case, and surround it with those little packing peanuts. Each time you need to put the guitar back in the case, simply retrieve 200 peanuts and placve them back in the case with the instrument - don't forget the ten or twelve that will stick to your shirt via static electricity.

voila!

I think that those peanuts were invented either as a practical joke, or to inVolk revenge on someone...

If you want to make a foam insert for one of those aluminum fry pans, just heat the guitar in the oven to about 400 degrees, then sit it on the foam. makes a perfect fit. If you are quick you can even put new tuner buttons on before it cools.......


If you survive the toxic fumes, call Jason Lollar or Rick Aiello to re-mag the pickup.

. . and don't proper Kitchen Safety . . be certain to use a potholder when handling that fresh-from-the-oven fry pan . .

do these skb cases come from the auction at Sierra ?

Yes. The Ebay auction mentions this.

And contrary to the way my playing sounds, there is no truth to the rumor that I wear oven mitts when I play.

I purch. an SKB low profile industrial case with wheels last spring to haul my D-8 Stringmaster to Hawaii for the HSGA convention. I checked it thru baggage. It came with foam (an inexpensive option which I ordered). Three layers top and bottom. I didn't touch the top. Used a sharp blade to trace the guitar in one bottom layer, then used that for a template. Also cut a section for the legs.
I had to 'laminate' all together with glue to make sure the foam supported the legs. Once the case is closed however, it all rids nice.
Easy to wheel around. Although the airlines though it was a gun case every time.

chris

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Chris Kennison
Ft. Collins, Colorado
"There is no spoon"
www.book-em-danno.com

I'm running a Flightcase Production company in Norway, and I've learned a lot by reading this thread. Thank You.
If it is of anyones interest, - I'll tell You how we adjust the foam inside our flightcases. We mainly use a product we call Ethafoam, and it's available in sheets, with different thickness. To cover walls, bottom and lid we mainly use 11mm or 20mm thick Ethafoam. When we produce a foam insert specially adjusted to the outer shapes of an instrument (for ex. a electric guitar), we use a 55mm thick Ethafoam. The Ethafoam is Black and we carefully draw a line following the shape of the guitar (using a thin marker colored white/silver/gold ..) and then we cut all through this thick foam. You could use a sharp knife,(here in Norway we name these knifes "stanley"), but it's the same knife as You use when You do the flooring in Your house. The problem with these knifes might be the broadly blade, it might be difficult to cut sharp curves. Therefore, my best suggestion is to use a motorized jigsaw with the blade modified/sharpened almost like the blade of a knife. This saw allows You to cut very sharp curves, - radius near zero if You like. By cutting the foam like this You get an exact fitting around the object. And at last, - You take the loose piece You've cut out and You adjust (reduce) the thickness of it, according to the thickness of the object, -and You put it back where You cut it out. You might adjust the thickness by using the same knife as mentioned, or by using a saw. If You put it back facing the adjusted/damaged side down and the untouched side up, - it will look very professional and it will take good care of the instrument during handling/shipping. For serial production we use a CNC router, which of course does this faster and "better" ...
Sorry this took some place writing down ....

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