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My Goodrich pedal is scratchy...

Posted: 8 Apr 2006 5:44 am
by Terje Larson
... or at least, I think it is. I'm not sure anymore. Anyway, the noise I'm getting is by the end of the sweep, right before it's wide open. Sounds exactly like a scratchy pot to me but... this is how the first pot sounded when I frist bought the pedal, almost right away. I had it replaced and actually it looked kinda new and unused to the guy in the shop. He put a new pot in there and the problem came back in about a week.

I should say here that I play outdoors a lot. I do not have this problem with my Ernie Ball pedal but I like the Goodrich more for what I want to do with it. I play elelctric slide balalajka and not PSG, but I often try to emulate the sound of PSG on my instrument, the volume pedal is a crusial part in this.

Posted: 8 Apr 2006 7:26 am
by Jack Stoner
Unfortunately that is nature of the current pots that are available. Even the Canadian pots have been known to go "bad" prematurely.

The only thing different, electronically, with the Ernie Ball pedal is the pot value and possibly type. If the Ernie Ball is not failing, install an Ernie Ball replacement pot in the Goodrich.

Otherwise the option is an electronic pedal such as the Hilton that does not have a pot.

Posted: 8 Apr 2006 7:48 am
by Terje Larson
Will the Goodrich work the same way with the Ernie Ball pot?

Posted: 8 Apr 2006 8:30 am
by Earnest Bovine
Yes, try the Ernie Ball pot.
Also, you can try to clean the old pot.
The new pots are not as good, but they do work if you are patient and willing to buy many pots.
Electronic pedals such as Hilton will solve the "scratchy" problem, but not everyones likes the sound.

Posted: 8 Apr 2006 8:50 am
by Jim Sliff
Do NOT EVER "clean" a pot! You will destroy it.

Pots need to be treated with a combination cleaner/lubricant. A cleaner alone removes cabon deposits but increases friction, wiping the pot out in a very short time. The cleaner/lubricants add a thin electronically-conductive film to the contacts, smoothing the movement and protecting the bare metal from abrasion.

I've replaced probably a hundred or more amp and guitar pots because pople have used "contact cleaner" on them.

Posted: 8 Apr 2006 9:16 am
by Earnest Bovine
Jim, why do some people seem to have good results from cleaning an old pot?

Posted: 8 Apr 2006 9:31 am
by Jack Stoner
I agree you should use "pot" cleaner not contact cleaner or in the olden days TV tuner cleaner.

But, depending on the condition of the pot, the "pot cleaner" will help.

I've been electronics since 1955 and have always used "pot" cleaner (which contains a lubricant).

Posted: 8 Apr 2006 9:51 am
by Earnest Bovine
Can you guys recommend any specific cleaner/lubricants that I can Froogle?

Posted: 8 Apr 2006 11:46 am
by Jack Stoner
Doug, I think De-Oxit makes a volume control (pot) cleaner.

Posted: 8 Apr 2006 12:23 pm
by Dan Beller-McKenna
FWIW:

I have found that the nut holding the shaft pf the pot to the bracket can come loose a little, and when it does it creates some "scratch." You might check to make sure it is tight.

Dan

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Dan Beller-McKenna
Durham, NH

Posted: 8 Apr 2006 2:52 pm
by Keith Cordell
De-Oxit is what you should avoid. For about $3 you can get cleaner/lubricant from Radio Hacks.

Posted: 8 Apr 2006 2:59 pm
by Greg Cutshaw
I use this stuff from Caig laboratories which is the same stuff, I believe, as Jack mentioned above. They have contact cleaners, lubes and restorers. It's the best stuff I have found and is used by a lot of techs and amateur radio people. NOT cheap! At work I have used their contact restorer on 40 year old, pitted power relays, with good results.

click here

Their pitch LONG!!!! (has worked for me!):

1. FIRST, you must really clean contacts and connectors
WHY: Would you apply an enhancer or protectant on top of an oxidized/corroded surface? Would you apply gold plating over an oxidized copper based metal?

Simple contact "cleaners" wash away dirt, dust, and grime, but prove ineffective at removing oxidation and surface sulfides.

These tough contaminants actually attach to and become an integral part of the contact metal. This issue causes increased unnecessary service calls for covered warranty repairs that could have been prevented, translating into literally millions of dollars of lost revenue for service organizations.

The only true method of eliminating oxidation and surface sulfides is by chemical action and reaction, and that's what puts DeoxIT products in a class by themselves.

2. Next, you want enhancement - to improve conductivity
WHY: Why not improve performance, increase current flow, decrease heat and eliminate intermittents?

DeoxIT and DeoxIT GOLD are designed to improve the flow of electricity between metal surfaces. These products are initially non-conductive liquids, when subjected to an electrical field, DeoxIT and DeoxIT GOLD promote current flow. No short circuits will occur. In both states, DeoxIT, DeoxIT GOLD and DeoxIT SHIELD have resistances high enough to prevent short circuits.

3. Finally, you need long-lasting protection - for improved reliability
WHY: Once you have really cleaned a contact surface and enhanced its electrical properties, would you want to re-expose it to atmospheric contamination (humidity, salt, pollution, etc.)?

DeoxIT, DeoxIT GOLD and DeoxIT SHIELD protect metal surfaces in two ways. First they mechanically bond, on a molecular level, to seal the metal surface. Second, the thin film moves as the contact is disturbed by vibration or another contact surface. In effect, the product(s) re-coat exposed surfaces. This is especially important on equipment subject to vibration. Greases, silicones, polymers and PPE’s cannot reseal exposed surfaces. Once exposed or re-inserted they need to be re-applied.

4. Materials Compatibility: It's the key to the success of DeoxIT products

CAIG is committed to insuring product compatibility with new and existing materials and products. To accomplish this, we invest considerable resources and time working with hundreds of companies in many industries to insure that our products perform exactly as promised.

5. Ease of Use: Variety of convenient applicators

Since many applications require a different means of applying a treatment to contacts and connectors, we also offer nonflammable sprays, mini-sprays, pens, wipes, needle dispensers and our OEM squeeze tubes. CAIG is committed to the continued development of precision and convenient applicators for all of your needs.

6. CONCLUSION:
When you want to do general cleaning and remove dust, dirt and grime, any contact cleaner will do. But when you need to cure contact related problems, and dramatically improve equipment performance, CHOOSE DeoxIT!

Greg






Posted: 8 Apr 2006 8:04 pm
by Lee Baucum
Here is what I use, from Radio Shack. I notice that the lubricant they use is mineral oil.

Lee, from South Texas

Posted: 8 Apr 2006 10:08 pm
by Terje Larson
Dan, I will check that nut. Or rather, take the pedal to someone who can check that nut.

Posted: 10 Apr 2006 6:18 am
by Dr. Richard Buffington
I have been blessed with my pots lasting a very long time so where do I buy the best replacements to keep on hand for the time mine give up? thanks, Dick

Posted: 11 Apr 2006 5:13 am
by Tommy Roten
I've used WD-40 in my pot with good results.

Posted: 13 Apr 2006 2:49 am
by Terje Larson
Took it to the store and of course the little thing sounded just perfect there. Back home again I could still hear that scratch...

Posted: 13 Apr 2006 7:10 am
by Dan Beller-McKenna
Terje,

I sometimes have the same experience going from my practice amp to my regular amp, and I recall on an earlier "scratchy pot" thread reading that it had something to do with impedence deifferences. Perhaps someone else can speak to this.

Dan

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Dan Beller-McKenna
Durham, NH

Posted: 13 Apr 2006 7:11 am
by Earnest Bovine
They scratch more when there is a DC voltage across the pot. In other words, your amp, or buffer amp, can make a difference.