Pickup Phase problem/question for Tele.

Matt Steindl · Post by **Matt Steindl** » 16 Mar 2006 3:39 pm

OK.... I got my DiMarzio twang king for the neck PuP on my tele. I installed it the same way as the stock pickups were installed e.g. the black soldered where the black was.

It sounds excellent by itself, and the stock bridge PuP still sounds fine, but when Im in the middle possition, it sounds thin. I am assuming there is a phase issue how I installed it.

My question is, should I resolder it w. the white and black leads switched? Or is there something else that might be going on?

Any help will be greatly appreciated!

Matt Steindl

Jack Stoner · Post by **Jack Stoner** » 16 Mar 2006 4:04 pm

I'd try reversing the wires. DiMarzo may not use the same phasing as Fender does.

Jim Peters · Post by **Jim Peters** » 16 Mar 2006 5:44 pm

Swap the leads. This kind of stuff happens all the time. I just put a cool rails in the middle position of my Godin, had to do the same thing. It'll work perfectly when you switch it. JP

Matt Steindl · Post by **Matt Steindl** » 16 Mar 2006 5:53 pm

so is the out of phase thing what would happen if the leads were switched?

Jim Peters · Post by **Jim Peters** » 16 Mar 2006 6:28 pm

Out of phase is what you are hearing right now, Very thin, no bass, no volume. When you reverse the wires, it'll sound like it should.
happy soldering! JP

Matt Steindl · Post by **Matt Steindl** » 16 Mar 2006 6:35 pm

can I just cut strip and wire nut the leads or would that be bad for the signal? Terrible solderer!!!!!!!!!!

Blake Hawkins · Post by **Blake Hawkins** » 16 Mar 2006 9:48 pm

Matt, Using wire nuts in a guitar is not considered good practice. For the best, most trouble free operation, find a friend who can do the soldering if you can not do it yourself.

Blake

Jim Sliff · Post by **Jim Sliff** » 16 Mar 2006 9:53 pm

Practice your soldering on scrap stuff. This type of soldering is about as sinple as it gets.

NO wire nuts. Punishment will ensue.

PS - spend five bucks and buy a "solder sucker" Heat the parts and use the sucker to remove excess solder so you are starting fresh. Makes all the difference in the world.

Also - heat the PARTS. Not the solder. Use around a 40-watt soldering iron (NEVER EVER a soldering gun!!!), heat the attached parts until the solder melts on them. Done.

Wasn't that easy?<font size="1" color="#8e236b"><p align="center">[This message was edited by Jim Sliff on 16 March 2006 at 09:56 PM.]</p></FONT>