The Steel Guitar Forum

I was just wondering if anyone out there has built or played a completed version of the "Dobro" kits put out by Resophonic Outfitters? I am considering giving it a try, just thought I'd check and see if anybody has "been there and done that." Thanks, Larry Clark

I haven't tried one of their kits but have bought parts from them and have always been pleased.

Stewart McDonald also has Reso kits in their new catalog that just came out a few days ago. You can even buy just the top, back, or sides.

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Pete Hunter

Larry,

A couple of folks on the RESOGUIT list are in the process of construction. You may want to check over there.

Also...You're 1 hour from Paul's shop. I'd make an appointment and run up to Hagerstown!!!

You'll learn a lot.

hp

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Howard Parker
www.resoguit.com
ListOwner RESOGUIT

Last week I got my squareneck kit from Paul Beard at Resophonic Outfitters. Got the upgraded American made parts and bone nut and ebony tipped saddle, Quarterman cone.

I have already build molds, side bender and
workboard, sanded and flattened the spider and messed around with samples of hand applied sunburst as opposed to spraying..

The kit is cool but not like paint by numbers..the instructions are (IMHO) intended
for someone who builds or has built
instruments. ..not for the timid..

I'm taking photos of this blessed event..and
I welcome any comments, tips, advice and glad
to share with anyone who's interested.

Jeff Hildreth signing out from
The Retrophonic Instrument Corp Inc.

Jeff, just curious, why the side bender if you bought Paul's kit?

I'll add another thumbs up for R-O and Paul Beard, I've built a number of guitars using him as a parts source (and information outlet) good guy. I'm sure you'd be happy with the kit.

Though the sides are Pre-bent they are only
reasonably close and in no way ready to be
glued up. Paul states in his instructions
that some spring back will occur. I phoned
him about this and about using molds..he
said it wouldn't be necessary if you are just building one and have the patience to fiddle.
I neither have patience or confidence that I could do that...spring back is an understatement ..I already had a tube type
propane heated side bender and simply wetted the sides and reshaped them then clamped them in the side mold I just constructed..I want this reso to like look anything except a kit.
So the mold and pattern building, side bender reprofiling of bits and some judicious pruning and trimming should result in the
equavalence of an American quality Retrophone. Slding down the path to ......

Jeff Hildreth
N.B.S. Instruments LTD.

The other reason for the molds is:
After I finish the kit (successfully I hope)
I am going to make all the body parts from
solid wood and this will require all the
molds and equipment. Then I will swap all
the hardware and see for myself if plywood
and good tone wood truly make a difference
given exact sameness of internal construction.
Then I will experiment with baffling etc.
All this seems logical to me as the original
premise for the project was:
Education
I'm cheap
I like the quality of my own workmanship
Curious nature
Pride of playing something you made.

In the long run this will probably cost me as
much as a Scheerhorn, take longer.....and the
resale will suck. But that's me!

Jeff Hildreth
Phonicone Instruments

I figured that's why (making more, a man after my own heart ) Your right about the money, making your own guitars won't save you much, but it sure is fun.

Jeff,

I too have made a many a molds from my favorite instruments. I've built mandolins, violins, hollow body electric and all sorts of solid body electric. I would be interested in the difference of the solid woods verses the laminated on Dobro. Not sure if there would be that many differences.

Any preliminary thoughts on solid verses laminate on Dobro. I realize the advantage in pure acoustic instruments, but Dobro?

Joe

PS I see that you frequent Jerry's page as well.

I am a longe time builder of most all string insterments and still learning.I have made the 8 string Norman Hamlet playes in the Merle hag band. I call mine ROBRO's because of pat. My reserch telles me the sound comes from the fit of the cone to the bodydy and the spider fit to the cone . All have to be complety flat! And that is verry hard to do! I never cut the hole in the top untill the body is all glued up then with my pin router I cut the hole and the ledge perfictly flat! The other secret is the sustain and tone comes from the top. the heaver the better. The size of the body gives the volum and tone.

Ron Of the ROBRO

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I like resos cause they're like bikes (motor)
playable works of art..mechanical bits that
can make music.
So with the reso, I hope my logic was clear that I want to build the first one very stock
in design but very clean..and then switch to
tone woods..Solid top only first, then solid
backs and sides...then maybe some baffling
Thanks for the tip on routing the ledge ...
bought the spiral bits for binding today but
looking for a proper laminate trimmer..my buddy Randy Allen of Allen Guitars uses
Dewalts but I couldnt find one...oh well..
I really dont expect to make this an enter-
prise and I was origianlly considering
other instruments and want to publically thank the guys who make and sell them that I have talked to over the past months...just
couldn't make up my mind so might a well
jump in the deep end of the pool.
I greatly admire the guts and tenacity it
takess to produce an instrument and resos
are special....

More later..thanks for the comments

Jeff Hildreth
CEO and President..
"Cones Bones and Boards"

Here's an update on construction Progress:
Today I decided it was time to bend the sides. They were not even close to the body
contour. So water trough at hand..side bender heated up..mold ready..now!! what the h--- is that..on closerr inspection of the sides Ply) the inside of the waist of one
side anf the upper bout of the other had
already been split from too heavy a hand and
not enough heat or steam or whatever..Not being one to whine I went ahead with the bending and it was successful..now clamped in the side mold I'll let them sit for a couple days..they way this ply is made it is actuallt three thin plys and an extremely
thin veneer on both sides..since this veneer
was peel cut and on the slab..its no wonder
they split it..Ill build some contoured cauls, get out the wax paper and glue and fix
it...
AS I said before..this is only mariginally a
"Kit" more a box of parts with some basic
machining..more later
Jeff Hildreth
Quality Control Manager
ConaPhone Inc

If it were me I would throw away the plywood sides and bend some solid sides as the plywood sises sand through so easy than you have to paint they or shade and the shade is'nt going to be in the right place. Top plywood top and baack are all right and stronger than solid wood as the top is cut mostly away.


RON of the ROBRO

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Squareneck construction update:

Finished rebending the sides and repairing the splits (easy and not visible)

Remacjined the neck and tail blocks and
corrected their height (both too short by
about 1 /16 th

Finished building the internal expanding
molds for the main internal mold/work board

Will flat sand the mating surfaces of the sides to fit the top and back..

And glue the back..all tomorrow...

Jeff