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Topic: PP D10 mechanical advice |
Jon Baumgartner
From: Iowa, USA
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Posted 11 Feb 2025 5:11 am
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1973 Emmons D10 fatback. I love everything about this guitar except one aspect: I have to move the knee levers about 4 inches to get a one half step pitch change. Does anybody sell a device that I can add to the crank to change the rotational ratio? I would really love to be able to achieve a half step change with 2 inches of travel rather than four. Thanks! |
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Kelcey ONeil
From: Sevierville, TN
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Posted 12 Feb 2025 6:53 pm
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Jon,
A properly setup guitar should have no trouble at all with what you're wanting to do, it's likely a setup issue rather than a hardware issue. Which lever is this, and what change is it performing? _________________ Co-owner and operator: Emmons Guitar Co. |
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Jon Baumgartner
From: Iowa, USA
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Posted 12 Feb 2025 7:40 pm
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Hi Kelcey. Thank you so much for getting back to me. LKL (E to F) and LKR (E to Eb). This is my 3rd and final PP D10 because I'm 70 years old. Those changes on the previous two guitars seemed like maybe an inch and a half of travel on the levers. This guitar it's like 4 inches, maybe more. It's absurd. This guitar was badly cobbled when I bought it, and after a year and a half of reading and tweeking and reading more and tweeking more, it is finally doing exactly what I want (standard Emmons Nashville setup) except for this lever travel issue. Any advice you could lend would be great. Thanks so much. Jon |
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Charlie Paterno
From: Westerly, Rhode Island, USA
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Posted 13 Feb 2025 7:21 am
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Jon, I think your problem is the pullrods are hooked to far from the axle. Check to see where they are . Mine are close to the axle. Makes the finger move fast. You may want to do both string 4-5.It will also shorten the floor pedal travel. Charlie |
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Nick Krol
From: Rhode Island, USA
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Posted 13 Feb 2025 12:31 pm
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I had a similar problem where the first part of the lever movement wasn’t actually pulling the string at all and by the time the pull actually engaged my leg had already moved the lever really far to the side.
This can be fixed by moving the lock collars on the pull and push rods. On the raise you want to move it towards the changer, on the lower you want to move it away from the changer. I also use little to no shock springs on my LK changes _________________ 1968 Emmons D10 - The sticker makes it sound better |
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Jon Baumgartner
From: Iowa, USA
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Posted 13 Feb 2025 1:00 pm Emmons PP Balancing E string raise vs drop
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Thank you so much for the suggestion, but in this case that is not the problem as the collars are right where they need to be. I think my problem may be aftermarket rods that somebody put on the guitar that are not stiff enough. I have not flopped it over yet but from a year ago I remember that I was surprised at how much bowing those rods were doing. After I flip it over and take a little closer look make a follow-up report. Many thanks! _________________ Emmons D10 P/P, Session 500, B-Bender Tele. |
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Jon Baumgartner
From: Iowa, USA
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Posted 15 Feb 2025 6:37 am Emmons PP Balancing E string raise vs drop
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Hey everybody, Kelsey O'Neil got back to me with this terrific advice, and I am so impressed that he took time out of his very busy day to help me out. My problem is solved, and I'm posting Kelsey's advice here in case anybody else needs it:
"The rods should be 1/8 inch diameter stainless steel rods, it's unlikely though that they are something else. Long push rods should be routed through one or two bell crank swivels on their way to the changer to keep them from bending, many guitars thay have been tinkered with will have not have done this. Also, return springs that are over tightened, or pushes being out of time with each other can cause rod bending. Hope this helps!
Kelcey"
I am so very grateful for all of you and for the nice people at Emmons Guitar Company. Play loud everybody. |
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