Shubb SP-2 tone bar problems

Lap steels, resonators, multi-neck consoles and acoustic steel guitars

Moderator: Brad Bechtel

Post Reply
User avatar
Tommy Mc
Posts: 522
Joined: 29 Feb 2000 1:01 am
Location: Middlesex VT

Shubb SP-2 tone bar problems

Post by Tommy Mc »

I recently picked up a used Dobro and the Stevens bar that was included in the deal is kind of banged up. I did a little research and decided to try a Schubb SP-2, and ordered one online. I really like the heft and shape but I've noticed one annoying thing. When sliding it on the plain strings, the glide is rough. It's almost like the strings are pitted or have grit on them, but they're brand new. The bar will slide smoothly for a quarter inch or so, then snag, slide some more and snag again. My old beat up Stevens bar, my Pearse, and Emmons bullet bars feel fine.

All indications point to there being a problem with my new bar. I've examined it under magnification and can't see any scratches. Also, the rough action occurs along the entire length of the bar, and even when I experiment with holding it at an angle. I'm contacting the seller about this, but am still mystified as to what's causing the problem. Any thoughts?
1980 MSA Vintage XL S-10, 1975 Session 400
1972 Dobro model 66s
Derby SD-10
Tom McDonough
User avatar
Dave Mudgett
Moderator
Posts: 9648
Joined: 16 Jul 2004 12:01 am
Location: Central Pennsylvania and Gallatin, Tennessee

Post by Dave Mudgett »

You say the problem is on the plain strings and not the wound strings? That's kind of weird.

Are the strings somehow made of stainless steel? I've never heard of stainless plain strings, but I suppose it may be possible.

Shubb bars went to solid stainless steel bars some time ago, and I have found that a stainless bar on stainless (wound) strings produces quite a bit more friction. This has been discussed many times over the years on this forum.

The older Shubb bars were apparently some other type of metal, but with chrome plating. I personally prefer the Shubb SP-1 when I want an indented bar, due to the extra length and cutaway bullet tip, but the issue is the same. I use stainless (wound) strings for pedal steel, but nickel or nickel-plated strings for non-pedal, both for tonal reasons and because of that added friction, which I found irritatingly noticeable. But that was, again, the wound strings.

One other thing, perhaps - I have some sets of acoustic guitar strings and jazz guitar strings that have coated plain strings. I hate them - they oxidize quickly and become very rough, I notice it a lot when glissing with my fingers (standard guitar). I don't even bother to put them on anymore - I just give away or toss them and replace them with plain single steel strings, which I keep a large supply of. I get them by the dozen at juststrings.com, I have found them good and very inexpensive - something like $0.25 apiece.
User avatar
JB Bobbitt
Posts: 144
Joined: 10 Sep 2018 11:01 am
Location: California, USA

Post by JB Bobbitt »

I use a Shubb SP2 on nickel strings and have never noticed what you describe.

But, if anybody is worried about the cost of a new steel, you can finance this one. Hurry though, the special plan ends Jan. 2024.

Image
"Time is an enemy"
-Bob Dylan
User avatar
Brian McGaughey
Posts: 1185
Joined: 3 Nov 2006 1:01 am
Location: Orcas Island, WA USA

Post by Brian McGaughey »

;-)
JB Bobbitt wrote:I use a Shubb SP2 on nickel strings and have never noticed what you describe.

But, if anybody is worried about the cost of a new steel, you can finance this one. Hurry though, the special plan ends Jan. 2024.

Image



With depreciation, you’d be underwater with that bar financed for 2 years the day it arrived! :lol:

When I used a stainless SP2 on dobro I used to clean my strings using Blitz Cleaning Cloth (since 1912!). It greatly reduced friction. I’m not sure what the secret sauce is on these cloths but it cleans and polishes and make a big difference. I went to a chrome bar a few years back and the Blitz doesn’t make so much difference.
User avatar
Bill Groner
Posts: 1234
Joined: 30 Dec 2016 8:42 am
Location: QUAKERTOWN, PA

Post by Bill Groner »

The difference is Chrome is harder than Stainless Steel. That is why the chrome slides much easier.
Currently own, 6 Groner-tone lap steels, one 1953 Alamo Lap steel, Roland Cube, Fender Champion 40
User avatar
Tommy Mc
Posts: 522
Joined: 29 Feb 2000 1:01 am
Location: Middlesex VT

Post by Tommy Mc »

Thank you all....so maybe nothing wrong with the bar specifically, except that chrome would have been a better choice?

Of course there is more friction on the wound strings, but that's consistent with the roughness of the winds. The binding on the plain strings isn't consistent. It's hard to explain....the bar slides smoothly, then feels like it hits a depression, except that if I back up and pass over the same spot again, I can't repeat it. This can happen anywhere along the surface of the bar. Both the bar and string feel smooth to the touch and eye.

On my pedal steel, I use a stainless bar and currently have stainless strings. I don't recall ever experiencing this on the steel.
1980 MSA Vintage XL S-10, 1975 Session 400
1972 Dobro model 66s
Derby SD-10
Tom McDonough
User avatar
Eric Dahlhoff
Posts: 836
Joined: 25 Jan 2010 1:04 pm
Location: Point Arena, California

Post by Eric Dahlhoff »

I've experienced the same problem on my lap steel - on the plain strings. Feels like bumps or something. Only happens if I haven't played it for a couple days. If I rub the bar back & forth the problem goes away.
"To live outside the law you must be honest." (Bob Dylan)
Post Reply