The Steel Guitar Forum

I have an all pull Carter S-10. On the changer there are 4 raise holes and 2 lower holes. I always have to relearn this but I think I understand how the leverage principles work on the raises: (in the below scenario, the guitar is in normal playing orientation, feet on the floor)
1. on the bellcranks, the slot closer to the floor will result in the hardest and fastest pull
2. on the changer, the slot closer to the ceiling will result in the hardest and fastest pull

Did I get that right?

Ok... but my real question is. For the lowers, does points 1 and 2 above still hold true? I think for the bellcrank its the same --slot closer to floor is harder and faster. But is it the opposite for the lowers (from the raises) on the changer end? That is, the lower to the floor, the harder and faster the pull.

Paul, the answer is "yes" to both questions.

You have the leverage correct -- and the rules are consistent within the changer-end of things: with the guitar set up in playing position, closer to the ceiling on the changer is hardest and fastest... regardless of whether it's a raise or a lower.

And those rules are reversed at the bellcrank end of things.
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Since we work on the guitar upside down, I prefer to visualize this stuff with the guitar oriented that way rather then way we've been discussing it above. These diagrams are with the guitar UPSIDE DOWN:

The Bellcrank (labeled "Pull Bar" here):


.
The Changer(note that the rules are reversed as compared to the bellcrank)

Ok cool, Tucker. Thanks for the clarification. And also thanks for clearly spelling out the orientation. Half the time people are discussing bell cranks and changers, it always seem ambiguous which orientation they're talking about!

So I just switched 4 rods on my Carter D10 Basically Day to Emmons. I used the middle hole on the Bellcrank. Now the raises seem very hard on the A and C pedals. ??? what did I do wrong?

Follow the Carter rodding chart. On the pull bar, #1 is the hole closest to the cross shaft.

https://www.scribd.com/document/5447413 ... ding-Chart

Thanks Richard,
Now I will spend all day with my guitar upside down changing the rods.

Also available on the web here, if you don't want to sign up for Scribd:

http://steelguitar.com/rodding.html

A really great steel mechanic taught me how make changes on my guitar. I think the single best thing he taught me was to write down the hole positions of the pedals/levers I was going to change before I started moving anything. That way I could always go back to zero if I screwed anything up.

Scott Spanbauer wrote:Also available on the web here, if you don't want to sign up for Scribd:

http://steelguitar.com/rodding.html

Is there a Push Pull chart anywhere?

bob

Also take pictures. That helps too.

Hi Paul.

The Carter rodding chart is a good start, but leaves some pulls unbalanced, or un-timed as some would say (as in, pulls on 2 strings may not start and end at the same time). I have converted 3 Carter U12s to extended E 9 and had to stray from the Carter chart a bit to get the pulls to start and stop at the same time.

Stop by the shop sometime and I can show you how to get everything pulling synchronously.

Patrick.

Well Patrick , Do you have a shop in Fl?

Hi Paul.
Sorry no shop in Fl. The original poster (also Paul) is from my area (Seattle).