I have a couple of these screws (circled below) that are stripped on my guitar. Can this be fixed with wood glue and toothpicks directly into the hole without disassembling the guitar? Or would it be advisable to take the endplates off and drill the hole out and glue a dowel in and re-drill the hole. Or something else entirely?
Stripped screw hole holding endplate to body repair question
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- Brian Spratt
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- Jerry Overstreet
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I defer to the Emmons experts among us, but I believe I'd try the toothpick/glue method first. That looks like a left endplate which has nothing attached, so pulling it off wouldn't require any disassembly....but, those end plates fit really snug requiring use of a dead blow hammer in most cases to remove/install.
I guess there is the issue of the stripped screw allowing it to drift out of alignment, but I believe that they fit so tight, a stripped screw won't matter much long as it's in place. But I would go ahead with the toothpick/glue repair if it's me.
I'm quite sure the experts in the field will correct and reprimand me in the event this is unadvisable.
I guess there is the issue of the stripped screw allowing it to drift out of alignment, but I believe that they fit so tight, a stripped screw won't matter much long as it's in place. But I would go ahead with the toothpick/glue repair if it's me.
I'm quite sure the experts in the field will correct and reprimand me in the event this is unadvisable.
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- Henry Matthews
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Tooth picks and wood glue is easiest and best fix. Dip a few tooth picks in Elmers, cut to proper length to depth of screw hole, insert and let glue dry. It’ll hold.
Henry Matthews
D-10 Magnum, 8 &5, dark rose color
D-10 1974 Emmons cut tail, fat back,rosewood, 8&5
Nashville 112 amp, Fishman Loudbox Performer amp, Hilton pedal, Goodrich pedal,BJS bar, Kyser picks, Live steel Strings. No effects, doodads or stomp boxes.
D-10 Magnum, 8 &5, dark rose color
D-10 1974 Emmons cut tail, fat back,rosewood, 8&5
Nashville 112 amp, Fishman Loudbox Performer amp, Hilton pedal, Goodrich pedal,BJS bar, Kyser picks, Live steel Strings. No effects, doodads or stomp boxes.
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Agreed.. Once the glue dries, the new material[glue and toothpicks] is harder than the original wood.. Plain old Elmers is fine, but Titebond or Elmers Wood Glue is actually stronger....Henry Matthews wrote:Tooth picks and wood glue is easiest and best fix. Dip a few tooth picks in Elmers, cut to proper length to depth of screw hole, insert and let glue dry. It’ll hold.
I'm over the hill and hittin'rocks on the way down!
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- Darvin Willhoite
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I use JB quick weld with no plug on smaller holes, on larger holes I use a piece of hardwood dowel. A pilot hole can be drilled easily after the JB sets up.
Darvin Willhoite
MSA Millennium, Legend, and Studio Pro, Reese's restored Universal Direction guitar, as well as some older MSAs, several amps, new and old, and a Kemper Powerhead that I am really liking. Recently added a Zum D10, a Mullen RP, and a restored blue Rose, named the "Blue Bird" to the herd. Also, I have acquired and restored the plexiglass D10 MSA Classic again that was built as a demo in the early '70s. I also added a '74 lacquer P/P, with wood necks.
MSA Millennium, Legend, and Studio Pro, Reese's restored Universal Direction guitar, as well as some older MSAs, several amps, new and old, and a Kemper Powerhead that I am really liking. Recently added a Zum D10, a Mullen RP, and a restored blue Rose, named the "Blue Bird" to the herd. Also, I have acquired and restored the plexiglass D10 MSA Classic again that was built as a demo in the early '70s. I also added a '74 lacquer P/P, with wood necks.
- Brian Spratt
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