The Steel Guitar Forum

Hello,

I am wondering if anyone has any advice on repair, replacement parts, or a good luthier in the Bay Area, California, who could help me repair this fantastic 2006 GeorgeBoards lap steel.

Unfortunately, noticed that the bridge had snapped today at the low A and C string holder spot. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Hi Noah,
It can be fixed with some clear two ton epoxy and a clamp. Don't use that 5 minute crap.

I saw in the second photo that you have the part that broke out. Good.
It broke along the grain line so should fit back together very well if you don't mess with it.

Because the tailpiece is a part of the bridge I'll refer to it as the bridge.

You will need the two ton clear epoxy, two small pieces of soft wood for clamping cauls to protect the instrument, some alcohol, a small rag that you don't need to use again, a pocket knife or other scraping tool that is small enough to get into the tight places where the strings will be later & wax paper.

.1. Dry fit the parts together and clamp them as a test run first to make sure they all go together well.

.2. Assuming they all fit and the clamps will hold them go to the next step.

.3. The epoxy comes in two parts. Mix small equal amounts together well with a small stick on a business card you don't need. You can use the same stick to spread the epoxy on the broken parts where they broke.

.4. Press them together tightly with your fingers to be sure they will not slide around.
Some of the epoxy will squeeze out and some will get on your fingers as expected.

.5. Use the alcohol with a rag to clean away any squeeze out and your fingers. If it's grain alcohol you can drink a little to calm your nerves too.

.6. Use the wax paper between the soft wood clamping cauls* and the bridge parts.
*Clamping cauls are used to prevent the steel clamps from marking and indenting the guitar or bridge.

.7. After about 10 minutes the epoxy will start to harden. That is a good time to quickly take the clamps off, look for more squeeze out and if any is there scrape it off with a pocket knife. After 30 minutes the epoxy will be bonded to well to break apart, but it is not yet hardened as much as it will later.

.8. Put the clamps back to hold it all together tightly and leave it for 24 hours.
After that time take off the clamps, cauls & wax paper. If you missed some squeeze out you may need to use that small knife to remove the excess and be very careful here with this, but you should not have any. Let it sit another 24 hours to be sure the glues chemical reaction is complete.
It should be able to hold those lower strings that generally have less tension than the high strings.

If for any reason it does not hold you should contact Mr. Putman (Now Retired) and see if he has an extra part he can send to you?

I would remove the bridge for the repair.
Be careful l to pick out any loose slivers of wood so you get perfect contact.
I'd use Titebond original (red)

It looks like the failure has occurred due to the ball ends pulling through from the back. This will need attention or it will happen again.
Depending on what the back of the bridge looks like I'd use washers or a drilled brass plate to take the string balls.

I'm sure George Piburn would send you a replacement; are you going to ask him???
Ricky

Hi all, thanks so much for the advice and your thoughtful replies.

I had a very helpful exchange with George, who also walked me through a step by step process of using Epoxy. George also generously offered to handle the repair himself.

I am still evaluating and may take him up on the offer, as the guitar is just such a lovely instrument and I want it to be well repaired and I am an amateur at repairs.

Thanks again.

Hello builders corner,

I did have an email exchange with Noah,

Andy's description is pretty much exactly right on,

Since the repair is not only to replace that little chunk, it is also to strengthen the area in the Receiver against the tension of the string at full in tune.

The 2 ton Epoxy we use is called System 3 - good for bridging gaps on a sailing ship. It takes 36 hours to harden and another 3-5 daze to fully cure.

I suggested JB Weld and the 3-7 day cure time and ease of purchasing small amounts at home centers - ACE - System 3 is pricey and fairly large amount for a 3 drops repair.

Ricky - we discontinued those receivers over 10 years ago, and all are on GB's around the world.

Amazingly I made a few hundred of these parts, and this is the only one reported to have broken.

Jeff, the reason I suggested taking only the one screw out and doing the repair with the receiver on the instrument, is:

Under the Brass Bridge roller pin is a copper tape soldered to a wire going to the grounding
pulling the receiver will break that connection inside the body. Then the can of worms is open.

Despite beginning to Age out, closing our building facilities, Relocating to the Land Of Enchantment to watch pastel sunsets and Hot Air Balloons we do support our instruments.
I still offer to everyone willing to cover the round trip transportation, a FREE complete repair, and full once over tune up.

I'd be concerned about the possibility of this happening with the other strings even as George has indicated this is a very rare occurrence. I am the proud owner of two GB guitars and my solution would be to do the epoxy repair followed by adding a flat backing plate, which would solve the problem completely. Here's a picture to illustrate. It shows a replica Gibson bridge for a current project I'm working on. If you are so inclined I could make you a brass or alum plate N/C.
Dennis

Dennis, and Jeff,

The angle won't fit on the lap guitar. Plus I hand drilled the string ball holes , all are crooked to a small degree.

To reinforce these receivers , take a drop of the 2 ton epoxy or JB Weld, and toothpick into the string ball hole from the tail end.
It only takes a small drop. Be sure to let it cure for several days before placing string tension.
Remember the string balls did not pull through, just the little part between the slots broke.
Those structural glues will cure out stronger than the wood it's self.

To clear the sting hole use a 3/32 drill bit and hand ream it out.

All of this add custom metal plates is over kill and ugly too.

These are supposed to beautiful art works after all.