The Steel Guitar Forum

Hello All,

I just bought a nice PRP Mullen D-10 8+4. I would like to do a few things to it but I have never changed or added anything to steel. I am pretty mechanically inclined, but it would be amazing to see some videos of people making these modifications. I have three questions.

1. I would like to add a vertical knee lever. I reached out to Mullen and they said they do not have parts for PRP. Any advice on where to get these parts?

2. My current LKR lowers B to Bb. Ideally I would like that on the vertical knee lever. Any thoughts about where I could see some instructions for possibly doing this?

3. I do not have the "G" lever change, Raise 1 to G/G#, Raise 2 to E, and lower 6 to F#. Any thoughts about the feasibility of this and putting it on LKR?

Really appreciate the help in advance.

This would be great info for me too. Hoping someone chimes in!

So I got the parts for Mullen and well I guess I am stuck again. I wonder if I could even get a picture of what moving B to Bb to VKL would look like. If I had a picture of this puzzle. I could probably put it together. Anyone have a picture of the VKL lowering B to Bb?

Call mullen guitars they will walk you thru it
Paul

LKV on my PRP:


And here’s the lever lifted to show the stop. Nearest the rear apron.. no reverser needed..



Hope this helps..

Not to discourage you but I was told by some that in order to add across shaft to a PRP, you have to pretty much drop the whole undercarriage from the guitar. I hope this not true and some Mullen experts will set me straight. There may be work arounds. It looked to me like the center rib might be the problem????

Danny Letz wrote:Not to discourage you but I was told by some that in order to add across shaft to a PRP, you have to pretty much drop the whole undercarriage from the guitar. I hope this not true and some Mullen experts will set me straight. There may be work arounds. It looked to me like the center rib might be the problem????

What I see is that the cross shaft in this kit has a screw which allows it to separate. I believe this will allow the installer to add the cross shaft without dropping the undercarriage. If the cross shaft were one piece, your statement would definitely be true.

It will install and look just like your RKL and LKL knee levers. You can just copy them. The location would be the hole after the 5th pedal. You can mount the lever where it fits and folds nicely. Usually in between the LKR and LKL lever typically right in the middle between the two should be clear. You can email or call with any questions. We really need to get some instructions and videos. It is on our list of stuff to do.....

Glad to hear that. I was hoping my misinformed reply would alert experts to straighten me out. And it got the man himself. I have always gotten excellent customer service from Mullen.

Danny you are technically correct on that model, but we have devised a two part rod that bolts together to achieve this. otherwise you are correct.

I have a 2-segment crossrod on my PRP D12 9+10, I got it either from Mullen or might have had Jim Palenscar fabricate it, fuzzy on details decades later.

Tom Green, order from Mullen the short knuckle you attach to the crossrod bracket, the lever itself attaches to the other end of the knuckle. This yields a vertical lever that hangs lower and won't be at such an extreme angle when you make the final lever angle adjustment where the lever attaches to the knuckle. Very useful mod!
I like my vertical as close as possible to my left thigh.

I would like to see Mullen make that knuckle a little wider, the picture shows I can't get it any lower and have the angle set screw butting against metal of the lowering knuckle.

We don't have a longer one John but you can add more than 1

Mike Mantey wrote:It will install and look just like your RKL and LKL knee levers. You can just copy them. The location would be the hole after the 5th pedal. You can mount the lever where it fits and folds nicely. Usually in between the LKR and LKL lever typically right in the middle between the two should be clear. You can email or call with any questions. We really need to get some instructions and videos. It is on our list of stuff to do.....

I think that was the magic I needed. Once I lined up the parts on that hole, the picture made sense to me.

Mike Mantey, I want to lower my vertical a little more, but if I lower it and back out the set screw on that knuckle, it no longer stops against metal. The knuckle needs to be wider on the left side. Make sense? Not the end of the world, the knuckle the way it is really helps make a PRP vertical far more ergonomic and comfortable. Genius little device.

John I see what you are saying. Adding another part would allow you to have the set screws in much farther and give you a whole 1" to mess with. A wider part would work but I don't like the set screw at that angle either.

Making progress with everyone's help. Now onto changing LKR to raise F#s to G#s and D# to E.

I made a video for this operation. Hopefully it helps those who need to do the same thing. https://youtu.be/LTY8HotxkWg

Mr. McClung Sent you a private message about your problem.

Nice video with great details. Appreciate your time and effort to make this. Thanks.