Rondo SX Lap 3 body but no parts. (We can re-build it !)

[Ronald Paul]

Hello, I was given a Rondo SX Lap 3 body (six string) with not a single part. I was wondering if anyone could recommend any parts that would make this body into a decent guitar.

For the pick-up I was going to purchase a Seymour Duncan 11034-45 Antiquity for 1950 Fender Lap Steel but I am not sure what would be the most suitable volume and tone "pots" to go with it.
I would be open to other recommendations.

I would also like to hear any reccomendations for the lower "bridge" and the tuners.

I thought of a Grover Locking Tuner.

And I have no idea of what would be a good lower bridge.

Thanks for your time. All the best from Canada.

[Reinhard Brodesser]

Pictures would help, as there are a few versions of these made. Most parts are fairly common guitar parts. Nuts can be fashioned from angle aluminum. The biggest differences are the bridge itself. Georgeboards offer a few bridges that would probably work.

[Carl McLaughlin]

If you do a search on the forum ,you will find where i have modified an SX.It shows the pu bridge and string tailpiece.Hope you can find it and hope it helps.


Carl

[Carl McLaughlin]

Its under SX 6 STRING LAP MODS

[Ronald Paul]

Here are some photos -

[Jon Light]

The problem with those bridge posts is that they are very specific. I don't know what hardware was used and I don't know if it was standard off-the-shelf stuff but there can be considerable variation in the post spacing from one bridge maker to another. You may need to pull that stuff and fill the holes (or just leave it).

Here is a source for some hardware:

https://www.georgeboards.com/parts.html

[Karl Paulsen]

If that's an LP style tail you can surf through the various cheap import tailpieces on eBay or Ali until you find one that works. Usually they include pretty detailed measurements.

It's nice that the mounting plugs are there. You just need thread and center to center of hole measurements.

Good luck on the project. It's a nice looking piece of wood.

[Michael Johnstone]

I have one of those and it's got all the stock parts. The only problem is the stop tailpiece/bridge part is for a 6 string guitar and has an arch to it. Is not flat like a lap steel bridge needs to be. And I could never find a replacement out of the dozens available, that also didn't have an arch to it. All those things are made for guitar. It's tolerable as it is if you don't get up into the real high register. If I played it more or was starting from scratch with an empty body, I'd cut a new one out of flat plate 6061 to fit the posts but have a flat top on it. The 8-string version doesn't have that problem BTW.

[John Larson]

Looks like it takes a "wraparound" bridge. Commonly seen on modern danelectro guitars. Stew mac and a few others sell em, check post spacing before you buy.

Like others have mentioned this is not really condusive to steel playing unless someone makes a non radiused version.

[Jack Hanson]

If anyone is desirous of a flat-topped (unradiused) wraparound stoptail bridge milled from aluminum to the specs of the original Gibson units that were installed on Century Deluxes (see photo) and some of the pink Centurys, I do know of a source. I've no idea whether the Asian imports are spaced the same as the Gibsons were. One caveat -- being one-off's, they're a tad spendy. Likely almost as much -- if not more than the price of a new Asian sweatshop instrument itself.

Another Ted McCarty innovation, wraparound stoptail bridges sound excellent on old Gibson lap steels. Exponentially more sustain than the standard Gibson brass models that mounted to the flat-surfaced body with wood screws.

[Mark Mansueto]

This is my SX that I've shown before. It has two Bill Lawrence L500's and 500k full size pots. Also has a Gibson style wrap around tailpiece that works with the existing holes.

[Edward Dixon]

The problem with those bridge posts is that they are very specific. I don't know what hardware was used and I don't know if it was standard off-the-shelf stuff but there can be considerable variation in the post spacing from one bridge maker to another. You may need to pull that stuff and fill the holes (or just leave it).

I had a similar situation last year replacing a bridge on a counterfeit Gibson LP. Rather than modify the guitar I opted to open up the holes on the bridge. Measure the distance between the post hole centers and get a bridge as close to that spacing as you can. Open up the existing holes in small progressive steps until it fits.

[Jon Light]

The problem with those bridge posts is that they are very specific. I don't know what hardware was used and I don't know if it was standard off-the-shelf stuff but there can be considerable variation in the post spacing from one bridge maker to another. You may need to pull that stuff and fill the holes (or just leave it).

I had a similar situation last year replacing a bridge on a counterfeit Gibson LP. Rather than modify the guitar I opted to open up the holes on the bridge. Measure the distance between the post hole centers and get a bridge as close to that spacing as you can. Open up the existing holes in small progressive steps until it fits.

Right. My situation was that I wanted to replace the generic wraparound bridge on my import lap steel with something non-radiused. I thought this would be necessary because I was installing a string-thru pickup and had concerns about the radius and the narrow string-thru opening. Asher used to sell a flat version of the Gibson-style bridge but it is no longer on his site (although I certainly could & should have asked him about it).
Via conversation with Jack Hanson I investigated and had good exchanges with the maker he references. Definitely more $$ than this project could justify. It is a great option for a high quality build.

I considered trying to flatten out a cheap wraparound myself and in searching, I found quite a bit of variation in the post spacing and I did consider filing out the holes to accommodate. As a Plan B, C or D.

In the end, it turns out that the radius of the existing bridge was just fine with the requirements of the Steeltronics string-thru pickup and it all became moot.

[Edward Dixon]

my post was/is not intended as a criticism of any particular method, just offering another option.

To clarify "open up the holes"...
Use a drill a few thousandths bigger than the existing hole. Use a drill press if possible, the drill will follow the existing hole and that will keep the bridge in proper alignment.

[Jon Light]

If there was even a hint of conflict in my post, totally not intended. I thought we were all pretty much on the same page.

[Bill Hatcher]

my advice in this matter is to only put as much money into it as you can get out of it.

[Karl Paulsen]

Looks like it takes a "wraparound" bridge. Commonly seen on modern danelectro guitars. Stew mac and a few others sell em, check post spacing before you buy.

Like others have mentioned this is not really condusive to steel playing unless someone makes a non radiused version.

Is this the sort of situation where you could just put a piece of bar stock across the bridge? Sort of like the current Melbert bridge? If the radius is just coming from different height saddles and the saddle screws are all level, it seems like it would work well. If the saddle adjustment screws are different heights then a bit more of work bringing the saddles to the same height could achieve similar results perhaps.

[Todd Opheim]

Here's what I did on my SX. Added the string holder in the back (cheap) and made the wooden bridge from some scrap wood and cut a lead bar to fit it. The bridge is covering up the large bridge holes and is held in place by only string tension. Works great!

First post here btw !

[Jack Hanson]

my advice in this matter is to only put as much money into it as you can get out of it.

Wise words. Install new pickups and electronics and tuners and whatever on a hundred-dollar import guitar, what you're most likely to end up with is a hundred-dollar import guitar. You can only put so much lipstick on a pig.

[Mark Mansueto]

my advice in this matter is to only put as much money into it as you can get out of it.

That really only matters if your motivation is to flip and make money. I've had my SX for 14 years and is my #1 lap steel. I would never call this guitar a pig.

[John Larson]

Looks like it takes a "wraparound" bridge. Commonly seen on modern danelectro guitars. Stew mac and a few others sell em, check post spacing before you buy.

Like others have mentioned this is not really condusive to steel playing unless someone makes a non radiused version.

Is this the sort of situation where you could just put a piece of bar stock across the bridge? Sort of like the current Melbert bridge? If the radius is just coming from different height saddles and the saddle screws are all level, it seems like it would work well. If the saddle adjustment screws are different heights then a bit more of work bringing the saddles to the same height could achieve similar results perhaps.

If you have the machining skills new saddles with no radius could be fashioned. It wouldn't be easy however.

[Bill Hatcher]

my advice in this matter is to only put as much money into it as you can get out of it.

That really only matters if your motivation is to flip and make money. I've had my SX for 14 years and is my #1 lap steel. I would never call this guitar a pig.

i did not call your guitar a pig. check what i wrote.
and i never insinuated you were just going to flip it.

i just suggested that you not put more money into it than you could ever get out of it when and if you decided to sell the instrument. instruments are rarely kept forever....at some point they are going to be traded or sold or given away. if you want to invest more money into this guitar than its worth, thats your concern.

[Mark Mansueto]

i did not call your guitar a pig. check what i wrote.

No, you didn't. I should have referenced that quote in a separate post. Sorry about that.

[Bill Hatcher]

i did not call your guitar a pig. check what i wrote.

No, you didn't. I should have referenced that quote in a separate post. Sorry about that.

No problem. Best to you in your project.

[Nic Neufeld]

instruments are rarely kept forever....at some point they are going to be traded or sold or given away.

Oh man I've been doing this wrong the whole time!

(I have a hard time turning loose of instruments, but I'm working on getting better at that...only so much space to store them and so much time to play them!)