The Steel Guitar Forum

Hi Guys

One of my Franklin legs is seized in the end plate and won't budge. Any suggestions? thx

bob

Hi Bob,

Here are my suggestions for an immediate fix and a long-term solution, based on personal experience:

1. Buy a roll of “Con-Tact Brand Non-Adhesive Grip Shelf Liner”, 5 ft. x 12 in. for $2.99 at Ace Hardware.
Also buy a package of 10 plumbing O-rings, "Danco #9 O-rings: 5/8" Outside Diameter x 7/16" Inside Diameter x 3/32" thick"—about $2.50 at Ace Hardware.

Below is a close-up of what the mesh shelf liner looks like…


2. Cut out a small ~6" square section of the mesh shelf liner.

3. Next, wrap it around the stuck guitar leg, and the stuck leg will most likely loosen very easily by hand.
If it does not, double up the mesh liner, and use it to protect the guitar leg from the jaws of a basic slip-joint pliers as close to the top of the leg (where it attaches to the guitar) as you can, and very gently try loosening the leg with the pliers.
If that doesn't do it, I suppose you could try chilling the leg with ice where it threads into the guitar to cause the steel threads to contract a tiny bit, but I doubt if you will need to go that far--the mesh liner has got quite a grip!

4. After the guitar leg is removed, slip an O-ring past the threaded section on each leg to where there is a big groove next to the bottom of the leg, as shown in the photo below...



5. Since I began using the O-rings years ago, the legs on my (50-year old) steel guitar always stay tight while playing, but easily loosen when packing up!
BTW, I also apply a tiny bit of grease on the leg threads every couple of years to make sure the steel leg threads are well lubricated and not grinding away at the softer aluminum end-casting of the steel guitar.

- Dave

Put on a good pair of thick-tight rubber gloves and get a good grip on it, it should come right out.

I agree with Dave, regarding the grippy shelf liner. I keep a piece in each of my steel guitar cases.

I also keep a rectangular piece in my pac-a-seat to put under my volume pedal, for the rare occasion we are set up on a smooth, slick floor. It keeps the pedal in place.

It’s happened to me too. I took one of those rubbery mesh things out of the kitchen drawer, the kind you use on hard to open lids, wrapped it around the leg and then used a pipe wrench around that to loosen it.

Thanks, Guys

I had 3 burly men all trying at once to loosen it and nothing. I will absolutely try the suggestions here.

bob

Try tapping the leg soundly with a piece of wood (like a 2x2) while you're trying to loosen it. That turning with a shock is what makes an impact wrench so effective!

A drop of two of oil where the leg meets the plate wouldn't hurt either.

steel (male) threads on anything that joins aluminum threads is a mechanical NO NO!! The joint will tend to gall or freeze. Buy a small tube of anti seize at your local auto parts store and apply a light coat to male threads before assembly. Anti seize is messy so buy 4 standard rubber crutch tips for the male ends to apply when removing legs to case guitar, O rings are also a good idea!Good luck, John Underwood Bozeman, MT

Hey that sucks. If 3 folks pulling on it won't do then it really is on there.

If you haven't fixed it yet, I have these and google "rubber wrench strap"

It should go small enough, it has a handle (torque) and the more you pull the tighter it gets (it shouldn't slip).

Or last case REALLY crank a vice grip on there of course it would mar the leg. Sorry.

If rubber jar openers and shelf covering does not work.
Fill a zip lock plastic bag with ice and hold it firmly to the end plate around problem leg. Get the aluminum cold as possible quickly. Just a couple thousands of shrink will allow the leg to come loose. Then use jar opener.

Rub bee's wax or paraffine wax on the leg insert threads, And the shoulder that contacts the leg socket area. The wax makes a clean film that allows easy turning of the legs, But holds the leg firmly in the guitar.

___

Well don't leave us hanging did the leg finally come out?

If all else fails you can always as a lady too twist it out problem solved you can thank me later.

Johnie King wrote:Well don't leave us hanging did the leg finally come out?

If all else fails you can always as a lady too twist it out problem solved you can thank me later.

Sorry. I haven't been back to the studio where it is. Its soaking with penetrant and I will pick up a strap wrench tomorrow.

bob

Success!!

Applied more penetrant, Tried duct tape and vise grips, no go.

Took a block of 6x6 wood and pounded on the removed rubber foot end and twisted at the same time and it came loose.

Problem is the male threaded plug is bent or tweaked but the female threads in the end plate are good, using the bad leg and a good one.

So, can I remove the bent plug and install a new one now?

thx

bob

Yes, you can take the leg apart and drive out the old plug with a long dowel or metal rod. Procure a new plug, and before you drive it in, clean the plug and inside of the leg with alcohol. Then coat the plug with Loctite 415 Metal Bonder and immediately drive it in with a 2x4 or hard mallet. Let it sit overnight and you're good to go!

Loctite 415 is good stuff!

Donny Hinson wrote:Yes, you can take the leg apart and drive out the old plug with a long dowel or metal rod. Procure a new plug, and before you drive it in, clean the plug and inside of the leg with alcohol. Then coat the plug with Loctite 415 Metal Bonder and immediately drive it in with a 2x4 or hard mallet. Let it sit overnight and you're good to go!

Loctite 415 is good stuff!

Thanks, Donny

Do the plugs come in different (guitar brand) sizes? What is the proper name?

bob

If it's a typical 1/2-13 tapped thread, purchase a bottoming 1/2-13 tap and run in and out several times to clean up the threads. The same thing happened on my Williams and that's how I fixed it. Be sure to also put a light oil in the socket so it won't seize up again.

Who sells just the plug?

bob

Dick Wood wrote:If it's a typical 1/2-13 tapped thread, purchase a bottoming 1/2-13 tap and run in and out several times to clean up the threads. The same thing happened on my Williams and that's how I fixed it. Be sure to also put a light oil in the socket so it won't seize up again.

Harking back to my days of old when restoring cars, we would use a product called (I think!) "Copper-coat" or something similar....this stuff came in a toothpaste tube and was fine copper particles mixed in with a light grease....we would put it on ANY thread that would one day need to be undone again....

...it NEVER failed....


just saying...

Yes, "Kopr-Kote" was the original anti-seize compound, and it's still made today.

Read below

In the USA there is 2 common anti/seize, NAPA and other auto parts stored sell them. They come in a capped tube, About like Tooth Paste. Regular for normal heat situations looks like Gooey thick aluminum paint. High Temperature is copper based, Great for hot locations like Manifold and Exhaust bolts and connections.