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Post new topic Since I am doing a bit of maintenance on it.
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Author Topic:  Since I am doing a bit of maintenance on it.
Johnny Baker

 

From:
Southport, Fla
Post  Posted 9 May 2020 3:22 pm    
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Hi, I am trying to figure out what would be a good oil and grease lubricants for my Sierra S-12 Universal. I have the keyless head semi-broken down and there is a silver/grey goo that reminds me of they type of grease you would use on outboard steering units for watercraft. This goo is, while a little slick, fairly solidified. What would be a good replacement grease for the fingers and oil for the other moving parts. Thanks.
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Greg Cutshaw


From:
Corry, PA, USA
Post  Posted 9 May 2020 5:04 pm    
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I've had great long term results with Tri-Flo:

http://www.gregcutshaw.com/Lubricate/Lubricate.html
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Dan Robinson


From:
Colorado, USA
Post  Posted 9 May 2020 6:37 pm    
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Johnny, that's pretty much what I found in the Carter changer I'm cleaning up. Yuck.

Greg, will Tri-Flow work for the changer axle?
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Greg Cutshaw


From:
Corry, PA, USA
Post  Posted 9 May 2020 6:49 pm    
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It's worked great on all my changers but it won't clean them up. If they are gummed up, that needs to be remedied first.
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Dan Robinson


From:
Colorado, USA
Post  Posted 9 May 2020 8:14 pm    
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Friday


Saturday
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Jim Palenscar

 

From:
Oceanside, Calif, USA
Post  Posted 9 May 2020 10:11 pm    
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Pretty much anything you use to lubricate aluminum is going to turn grey-black. On good recommendation 10-40/10-50 synthetic motor oil is on the horizon for me however I still have a good supply of Inox which I've used for years.
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Johnny Baker

 

From:
Southport, Fla
Post  Posted 10 May 2020 7:26 am    
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As a locksmith, I am very familiar with Tri-Flow and I agree with Greg on that. It is a very good lubricant. Now, the only thing is what type of grease would be good for the tuning fingers? I have a new tube of white lithium that I may put on them, for now. Thanks again.
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I am currently running a Simmons SD10, Peavey Nashville 400 that's packing a 15" BW, Peavey Delta Fex effects processor, and a Match Box. Best rig I've ever run and the sound is truly incredible.
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Dan Robinson


From:
Colorado, USA
Post  Posted 10 May 2020 10:10 am    
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GREASE. That is my dilemma. My changer axle was obviously greased. And like you saw, Johnny, it was thick, dry, solidified. It migrated into spaces between the fingers. Probably helped along by oil applied from the top.

Seems to me that grease is too heavy/thick for lubing between the changer fingers. I'm planning to use Tri-Flow on the fingers. But I was unsure what to do with the axle.

There have been dozens, it not hundreds of threads here on PSG lubrication. They do seem to have changed over time, as the PTFE lubes have become available.

I'm hoping Tri-Flow is a good choice for all of the changer parts, including the axle. Is it?
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Donny Hinson

 

From:
Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.
Post  Posted 10 May 2020 12:01 pm    
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Dan Robinson wrote:


There have been dozens, it not hundreds of threads here on PSG lubrication. They do seem to have changed over time, as the PTFE lubes have become available.

I'm hoping Tri-Flow is a good choice for all of the changer parts, including the axle. Is it?


Strangely, most all builders still recommend a synthetic oil for the changer. Similarly, there's almost nothing on a vehicle that car makers recommend to be lubed with teflon-based products. I know the teflon stuff is very popular for chain drives (bicycles and motorcycles) where sling-off is an issue. But for slow moving precision mechanical assembles, oil still seems to be the go-to product.
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Jim Pitman

 

From:
Waterbury Ctr. VT 05677 USA
Post  Posted 10 May 2020 4:40 pm    
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Concerning aluminum - an aluminum thing rotating on some sort of axel wil always produce aluminum dust.
Steel guitar manufacturers - don't do it! Sleave any bearing surface with brass or bronse.
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John Drury


From:
Gallatin, Tn USA
Post  Posted 10 May 2020 6:23 pm    
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This is the stuff, I have used it for years, in my opinion there is nothing on the market like it. It is non-flammable, it won't leave your guitar all smelly, and there is no residue. It cleans, lubricates, and protects.

I used this on a Sho~Bud Pro-II that had been used all its life in roadhouses, over 30 years of dust, grime, spilt beer, and cigarette smoke residue built up in it .After sitting a few years in retirement the changer froze up solid. It was not playable. I treated it with this product and it played just like new, without tearing the changer down. It was an overnight job, the new owner was ecstatic with the results.

I got some on the laquer finish, no harm. Later we cleaned the whole cabinet with it and it looked like new.

Always test your cabinet finish on an inconspicuous spot! I am not suggesting you clean your guitar with it! Just saying I did, and I got away with it.

Turn the axe over, use a drain pan, spray liberally, let it drip overnight, wipe clean, done! You will not believe the crap that comes out of that changer!

Warning: It ain't cheap!


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John Drury
NTSGA #3

"Practice cures most tone issues" ~ John Suhr
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Johnny Baker

 

From:
Southport, Fla
Post  Posted 11 May 2020 7:32 am    
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I have used this also. As the locksmith, for our county jail, we ordered a ton of this stuff for our weapons cleaning program. I tried it on our locks and it was outstanding, especially for any and all locking equipment left out in the weather, like gate locks, padlocks, and such. Thanks for reminding me about this product as well.
_________________
I am currently running a Simmons SD10, Peavey Nashville 400 that's packing a 15" BW, Peavey Delta Fex effects processor, and a Match Box. Best rig I've ever run and the sound is truly incredible.
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John Drury


From:
Gallatin, Tn USA
Post  Posted 11 May 2020 5:09 pm    
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Johnny Baker wrote:
I have used this also. As the locksmith, for our county jail, we ordered a ton of this stuff for our weapons cleaning program. I tried it on our locks and it was outstanding, especially for any and all locking equipment left out in the weather, like gate locks, padlocks, and such. Thanks for reminding me about this product as well.


Johnny,

I also started using it originally for my firearms, it is quite simply the best! Because it is so spendy, I have started filtering it and using it twice. I just used it on a frozen Master combination lock, it works like new now!

I got a call from Jim Fungaroli years ago saying that his Zum changer had frozen up, I suggested StrikeHold and he was amazed at the results. Excellent product! That is when I started using it on PSG changers.
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John Drury
NTSGA #3

"Practice cures most tone issues" ~ John Suhr
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Johnny Baker

 

From:
Southport, Fla
Post  Posted 11 Dec 2020 7:26 am    
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Sorry John, things have been hectic with me. Yes, I am familiar with Strike Hold, we used it at the Sheriffs Office as it's really good stuff. I also found that its a very good lubricant for outdoor padlocks that are neglected and not properly maintained.
_________________
I am currently running a Simmons SD10, Peavey Nashville 400 that's packing a 15" BW, Peavey Delta Fex effects processor, and a Match Box. Best rig I've ever run and the sound is truly incredible.
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Alan Ames

 

From:
Jefferson City, MO, USA
Post  Posted 11 Dec 2020 11:03 am     oil
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Tom Baker at Sierra recommended HOPPE'S No. 9 Lubricating Oil. Clean the grease off.
1) While you have the tuner apart, you might smooth up the surfaces that the thumb screws impact.
2) Twice, I have surfaced (with a file) the surfaces where the Socket-headed cap screws tighten down the strings. The strings cut into the aluminum surface. Put the arms all together on the axle and clamp on a bench or vise.
Mine is a 1992 model, I think. Don't know if they changed a lot after that.
Alan Ames
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Bob Carlucci

 

From:
Candor, New York, USA
Post  Posted 11 Dec 2020 11:22 am    
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Mobil 1 10-40.... Its really all you will ever need..
I simply buy the Walmart synthetic myself.. Works great on my guns, pedal steel, everything actually.. A quart will last you the rest of your life.... bob
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