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Replacement ferrules?
Posted: 16 Nov 2020 8:36 am
by Christopher Kux
Is there a modern drop in replacement for string through body ferrules on a 40s/50s Carvin lap steel? Mine measure 9mm at the flange and 6mm from the outside edge of the cylinder beneath.
Seems like everything I'm seeing online is a bit larger than that. I can drill or ream the existing holes but would like to avoid that if I can.
Posted: 16 Nov 2020 9:39 am
by Greg Forsyth
Posted: 16 Nov 2020 10:19 am
by Bill Groner
I have some pop rivets that measure 3/16" It's smaller than 6mm by pretty much and the heads are around 3/8" diameter, but you can chuck it up in a drill press or even a hand drill using the shaft of the rivet to chuck it. Take a file to the head until you get the 9 mm diameter you are looking for. When you have what you want drive the shaft out of the rivet, resting the head on a piece of metal with the proper size hole for the head of the shaft to pass through. The body of the rivet is about 5/8" long if that helps you?
Posted: 16 Nov 2020 10:41 am
by Bill Groner
I just looked at the pictures of your original post. I'm not too sure the pop rivet route will work for you. Those holes in that Carvin you bought are really oblong. However, the 5/8" length of the pop rivet will lend some stability when the strings get some tension on them. Give it a try on the fat string and see if it works. If it works on that one, you should have no problem on the others. It looks like the core of that Carvin is made from some punky wood.
Posted: 16 Nov 2020 3:15 pm
by Jack Hanson
Since you're not exactly restoring the Sistine Chapel, why not merely plug and re-drill the holes? You should likely be able to reuse the original ferrules.
Posted: 16 Nov 2020 5:12 pm
by Christopher Kux
Bill Groner wrote: I just looked at the pictures of your original post. I'm not too sure the pop rivet route will work for you. Those holes in that Carvin you bought are really oblong. However, the 5/8" length of the pop rivet will lend some stability when the strings get some tension on them. Give it a try on the fat string and see if it works. If it works on that one, you should have no problem on the others. It looks like the core of that Carvin is made from some punky wood.
That's the topside, I wasn't clear. Those will be fine once I push them back in, it's the larger ones in the reverse I'm looking for.
Monkey of a time getting the old strings out -- they had nested into the wood inside, so I'm aiming to replace with cup style to prevent that. I suppose I could fill, re-drill and replace, but hoping to go the easy route if possible
Posted: 16 Nov 2020 5:16 pm
by Christopher Kux
Hadnt seen the 1920s style on their site -- their specs look very close, and I just ordered a handful. Will post results, so thanks everyone!
Posted: 17 Nov 2020 8:12 am
by Bill Groner
I like Stew Mac for many things........but one of the things I don't like is the shipping they charge! It sometimes costs you more to ship than the part itself........what other vendor has a special club you have to pay for to get a discount rate? Non that I know of.......they would get a lot more of my money if they wised up!
Rant over, now I feel better.........
Posted: 17 Nov 2020 8:46 am
by Jack Hanson
Bill Groner wrote:I like Stew Mac for many things........but one of the things I don't like is the shipping they charge!
I purchase lotsa stuff from StewMac, so for years I've popped for the StewMAX membership (about 40 bucks a year) which includes free shipping. It's paid for itself many times over.
Open Onion
Posted: 17 Nov 2020 9:42 am
by George Piburn
I think Jack is on the right track - no collectibility so go for saving the deck.
You definitely are going to want to put a long rod of wood through that entire area per string. Harder the better.
Another possibility is to inlay a long rectangle block across that area -- might be easier.
You could commission Bill to machine you an insert with a bottom flange that has screw holes to hold it up in place with all of the string ball retention holes perfectly lined up.
All of that forward pull out is due to failing wood.
Small point ; those are not top ferrules, they are electronic eyelets. Back then they didn't have top ferrules as we know them today.
The Stew mac ones are what you want to go with, I personally add a tiny dab of epoxy to mine to both hold them and to add wall strength of the wood.
About the Stewmac shipping , I too have the 40 beans deal, and now if I want just a 5 dollar part , -- free shipping. Plus I got a book at 50% off too.
Posted: 17 Nov 2020 9:48 am
by Paul McEvoy
If you're into guitar making and get the stewmac membership, the half off on books is great because they have the Simpgyi and Gore guitar making books which are both great and super expensive.
Posted: 17 Nov 2020 2:52 pm
by David Ball
I've done business with Stew Mac since the 70's, when they were pretty much just a banjo parts company.
I balked at first doing the Stew Max thing, but their shipping has always been a bit high, and between the free shipping (so I don't feel compelled to buy more than I need to save shipping), half price books, and occasional specials, I've found it to be a great deal.
And Stew Mac's service and quality has always been great from my experience. Not the cheapest out there, but always a safe deal.
Dave
Posted: 17 Nov 2020 3:54 pm
by Dennis Saydak
Christopher, if you are close to a hobby shop that sells model airplanes check with them. They sell ferrules/eyelets in various sizes. Hope this helps.